Multi-Rotary Cabinet

phoennix

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2011
Messages
793
Reaction score
2
Location
Ontario, Canada
I know there have been a few members ask the same question over the years, but after searching through the forums and even PMing a few members, I haven't found any successful solutions.

I'm basically using a 6 in 1 switcher with 4 rotary type games (Guerrilla War, Time Soldiers, Heavy Barrel, Search&Rescue) and will be adding a couple of shoot'en ups, like Gunbird & 19XX (CPS2).

While I'm sure I can have rotary harnesses going into each PCB, then chop off the other ends and rejoin them for each joystick, I'd rather not do that. Too messy!

My thought was to have a circut board that will have 4 13-pin male molex connectors attached to it for each joystick. Then have all the leads join into 1 "out" 13-pin male molex connector. That way each harness from the PCB's go in and 1 comes out to the joystick.

So my question is, where can I get this made? Expensive? I thought maybe of using a jamma fingerboard but would then have to solder wires jumping to the one output.

Any thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Rob
 
I'd love for someone to figure out a good way to do this! I always planned on just making a messy harness as you suggested...
 
I could lay this out and get them made if you want. I will be doing the same thing eventually.

You'd have to add some Diodes or something though as you can't/shouldn't just tie them all together.
 
I'm assuming it's possible since I've seen so many "insert type here" to Jamma adapters. Not much current should be passing through the harness, just not sure if having the 4 inputs going to 1 output on a circuit board is an issue. Each PCB is only powered on at one time with the 6in1 switcher.
 
Not everyone would be using a 6in1 Switcher. Plus, even the 6in1 switcher uses diodes on each line.
 
If you can make them and know more about it than I do, I'm buying! I'm sure you'd get a few more customers on here as well.
 
Yes, I know nothing of diodes yet. Are you thinking it would be a problem with the using a switcher? I can't see any other purpopse of doing this unless you're using some kind of multi-PCB switch.
 
I have a cab with LS-30 sticks on it and a few PCBs (Ikari Warriors, Victory Road, Guerilla War, Heavy Barrel & Time Soldiers). I once thought about trying the JAMMA-multi thing, but then I realized that I always have to tweak the monitor when I swap out PCBs. The width, height, horiz position, vert position, brightness, or whatever, seems to always be a bit different game to game. So this kinda put a damper on the idea for me. While it would be kinda nice to quickly and easily switch PCB to PCB, I'd still have to open up the coin door, pull out the monitor remote board, and tweak the screen every time I changed games.

So due to that issue, along with the challenge of the rotary position wiring, I scrapped the idea. I just swap the PCB out every once in a while.

Good luck with your multi-LS30 wiring arrangement. It would be slick.
 
As long as the I would be able to solder on some 13-pin male molex connectors to it. I would need pin 1 of each input to all connect to the lead for pin 1 of the output male molex connector, etc etc..... Not sure where the diodes fit in.
 
I have a cab with LS-30 sticks on it and a few PCBs (Ikari Warriors, Victory Road, Guerilla War, Heavy Barrel & Time Soldiers). I once thought about trying the JAMMA-multi thing, but then I realized that I always have to tweak the monitor when I swap out PCBs. The width, height, horiz position, vert position, brightness, or whatever, seems to always be a bit different game to game. So this kinda put a damper on the idea for me. While it would be kinda nice to quickly and easily switch PCB to PCB, I'd still have to open up the coin door, pull out the monitor remote board, and tweak the screen every time I changed games.

So due to that issue, along with the challenge of the rotary position wiring, I scrapped the idea. I just swap the PCB out every once in a while.

Good luck with your multi-LS30 wiring arrangement. It would be slick.

I never got that far to realize any monitor issues. I'd still like to use the switcher though and would rather have a bunch of labelled rotary harnesses under the CP and just switch them there for each game. Wouldn't want to have to handle the PCB's each time.
 
Offhand, I'm thinking it would be just the connectors and diodes to solder. All through hole parts.

Describe what you meant by 13-pin male Molex connector. Do you mean just a compatible connector to plug in the default 13-pin connector or do you want a different connector?
 
Offhand, I'm thinking it would be just the connectors and diodes to solder. All through hole parts.

Describe what you meant by 13-pin male Molex connector. Do you mean just a compatible connector to plug in the default 13-pin connector or do you want a different connector?

I hope I'm using the right terminology, when I say 13 male molex (not the square kind), I'm referring to the same connector you'd find on the rotary joystick or the PCB, to which the harness connects to. I figured the circuit board would act as a collector for the inputs and funnel them into 1 output connector of the same type as each rotary harness has female connectors on either end.

Did I confuse you yet? I should try to draw it out.
 
...then I realized that I always have to tweak the monitor when I swap out PCBs. The width, height, horiz position, vert position, brightness, or whatever, seems to always be a bit different game to game. So this kinda put a damper on the idea for me.

That's where my pursuit/interest ended as well. The only solution is a JROK Multi-Rotary! :D And yes, I know different hardware, etc. A boy can dream, right?

.
 
That's where my pursuit/interest ended as well. The only solution is a JROK Multi-Rotary! :D And yes, I know different hardware, etc. A boy can dream, right?

.

Well, I guess once this is done, we can work on having a monitor control board wired through to adjustment knobs on the underside of the CP for easy under-reaching adjustments!

And yes, a boy can dream!
 
No I understand, I just want to make sure everyone is on the same page.


Does anyone have preferences on how many different boards should it support?

My initial thought was to have all 6 games be rotary, but I don't care too much for the other rotary's out there so I'm sticking to 4. But since there are 6in1 switchers, I'd say to be safe and have 6, even if some aren't used.

A cab would need 2 of these as it would be for each joystick.
 
6 Sounds about right. Right now, I'm not sure if I would put both on the same PCB or not.

Anyone else have any other thoughts?

Right now, the plan would be to support 6 different PCBs and the user stuffs the PCB.
 
Back
Top Bottom