Ms. Pacman - Electrohome G07 - Blue Gun Out?

postmortem01

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I am no repair man by any means. My Ms. Pacman Cocktail table has an Electrohome G07 monitor. I replaced the large board that drives the monitor with a used unit from a local supplier. I was told it was tested. The anode cup does not suction down as though it is deformed a little. After changing the board, the monitor does fire up. The picture is very sharp but there is no blue.

I've adjusted the blue pot. I wiggled the rgb wires but not flicker or change. I've shocked myself to make sure there is proper voltage. I've adjust all the other colors down as well.

Any ideas? Is the tube gone or the replaced board?

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I had this problem with Red when I didn't have both legs inside the Anoid hole. Might want to check that and be super careful discharge it first. I've gone to discharge them before and the cup just falls off. First time I messed with a GO7 it did that to me. Scary! If the cup isn't to old might want to roll it back and make sure both legs go in then roll it back and push the air out.
 
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No blue

I had the same problem on my G07 i replaced the flyback on. My solution was x901/902. X902 was dead. If nothing else gives you somewhere else to check if settings don't affect it.
 
Turn the blue way up. Then turn the game off and watch as the picture shrinks. Do you see the blue pop in for a sec before the image goes completely away? Or can you see the blue if you turn the brightness way up to the point that it's washing out the rest of the screen? Is the base of your blue drive transistor reading lower than 5.4v?

If the answer is yes to either of these questions, replace R517. If the value starts going out, it will start losing colors.

You can read more about it here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=96894

BUT - I will say from your pic is that it looks like you have some blue, so your issue is more likely tube or pot related. I assume you reflowed the video header pins?
 
The improperly seated cup is not very likely to be the cause of your problem. You either have a board issue or a tube issue. If you are capable of soldering you can swap out the blue transistor with either the red or green and see if the problem moves.

If you have a rejuvenator, or access to a rejuvenator, you can narrow the problem down. It can test the tube and ID any problems within. It may also be able to fix any problems found.
 
I'm going to try these suggested tests. I'm not familiar with the transistor locations and such but I will try to find a diagram for this monitor and locate them. I'll report back what I can find. I'll also try to turn the blue all the way up and shut it off.
 
It looks to me that your anode is not seated properly and is not recessed into the suction cup as it should be either.

I would suggest that you discharge the monitor and pull the anode. Push the metal end of the anode back into the suction cup, then re-install the anode into the tube and test again.
 
Try opening the cabinet and turning the game on and see if the colors are good and if they are, carefully and slowly close the cabinet and take notice of any color changes while you are closing it. It looks like you have a problem with some magnetism in the bottom left of the screen which will quickly but faintly spread across the entire screen washing out some colors.
 
Okay. I'm assuming that these are the transistors to test. I've discharged the tube. What is the best way to test the transistors? I need power to the machine. Do I disconnect the socket board to test? With the anode wire disconnected, do I just leave that hanging?
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Okay. I'm assuming that these are the transistors to test. I've discharged the tube. What is the best way to test the transistors? I need power to the machine. Do I disconnect the socket board to test? With the anode wire disconnected, do I just leave that hanging?
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DO NOT POWER THE MACHINE WITH THE MONITOR ANODE HANGING LOOSE!

You will NOT like the outcome!
 
LOL. Okay. I will bring home another multimeter tomorrow that will have the proper settings to test a transistor. Mine is really only good for continuity.
 
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