Ms. Pac (G07) monitor super slow warm up

jimbodeanny

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Hey all,

It's been a while since I've posted. My Ms. Pac has been giving me a little head-scratcher - the monitor at least.

For the last couple months, when I power the game on, the monitor (G07) takes a crazy long time to warm up. What I mean is that when I first hit the power, the picture comes on, but it's out of focus, a little dim, and the screen flickers/twitches.

This goes on for at least 30 minutes. After anywhere between 30-50 minutes the picture looks perfect and all is well, but it always takes at least 30 minutes for the monitor to completely "warm up" with the picture looking good.

Now, I'll add that when I restored this game originally (a little over 3 years ago in fall of 2008), the G07 chassis was recapped (actually chris25810 did the cap kit). I don't remember if the flyback was replaced though.

After doing a fair amount of research through the threads, I imagine it's possible the tube is a bit "tired"? I'm guessing that a good place to start is to hook up a rejuvenator and get a read on the tube since the chassis was recapped not TOO long ago? I'm currently watching a few on ebay right now - a couple sencore's and BK 467s (and up) since those seem to be recommended the most. From what I've read, having a rejuvenator is a great tool to have regardless.

Can anyone chime in and give me their suggestions/thoughts? Am I on the right mindset for this issue?

Thanks much!

-Jim

P.S. I hate to say it, but I'm almost happy to have a problem to work on. This is the first time (ever) that I have all, but two of my games in storage and can't do much with this hobby due to lack of space and funds. Oh how unemployment hurts...
 
It certainly can't hurt to hook up a rejuvenator to read the tube's emission levels.

Barring tube faults: solder joints are possible. Caps are even possible. If Chris did the cap job, I'm sure the flyback was replaced at the same time.
 
Once I acquire a rejuvenator, I'm going to test the tube. If that doesn't answer/solve the issue, maybe I'll try reflowing all solder points on the chassis.

Is this a good course of action? Anyone else want to chime in?
 
It certainly can't hurt to hook up a rejuvenator to read the tube's emission levels.

Barring tube faults: solder joints are possible. Caps are even possible. If Chris did the cap job, I'm sure the flyback was replaced at the same time.

Not so fast, Chris did a lot of GO7's without flyback replacement. Remember, Chris was the KLOV GO7 chassis rebuild bitch there for a while whether he likes to admit it or not.

Verify that the flyback has been replaced. If it has a green and white label on the fly it is an original fly.

Problem could be the tube, and or the filter cap too.
 
The G07 in my Gaplus used to act like that too. It's got a chassis rebuilt by Chris, and looks like it has a new flyback in it. When I'd first power it on, it'd be completely out of focus and after 15-20 minutes and it'd look nice and sharp. I haven't done anything with it, but it doesn't seem to do it any more. It's pretty clear from the start, although it still goes out of focus very briefly occasionally. Unfortunately, I don't have a rejuvenator to check the tube with.
 
Checked the flyback and I didn't see a green/white label - only a small white sticker.

So I guess I'll try the rejuvenator once I acquire one and then possibly the filter cap if that doesn't help.
 
Flyback is a creamish-white. Don't recall what color the anode cap is (the game is in storage so I'll have to check next time.)
 
I am having the exact same problem with my G07. I almost completely rebuilt it. New caps, flyback, Hot, regulator, fuses, all new pots. Now, all I get is a super blurry screen. The only thing I have not replaced is the filter cap, which is my next step. I don't have a rejuvenator to test the tube though.
 
I am having the exact same problem with my G07. I almost completely rebuilt it. New caps, flyback, Hot, regulator, fuses, all new pots. Now, all I get is a super blurry screen. The only thing I have not replaced is the filter cap, which is my next step. I don't have a rejuvenator to test the tube though.

Let me know if that filter cap fixes the problem for you. Once I have a rejuvenator, I'm going to test the tube, but I might also order one of those caps just in case.

Like I said, the picture looks perfect, but it takes 30-50 minutes to get there, where it once only took 30-60 seconds.
 
I just ordered a few of these. They should be in tomorrow, but I have to make a trip back to the hospital to get my Mom. I hope to be back tomorrow to test this, but I may be there for the night. Will let you know when I get to it.
 
Great, thanks.

I sent Bob Roberts an email asking him about the filter caps and my problem. He said that unless there's a noticeable "wave" across the picture (which there isn't), he'd guess that it's the tube and not the cap.

I'm eager to get a rejuvenator to test the tube. If that doesn't do the trick and/or test bad, then I'll try the cap.
 
In my experience when the tube's shot it will get better after being on for a certain amount of time but it still won't look great. Sounds more like a cap issue to me.
 
I replaced the filter cap and still get a 30 minute warmup. I get excellent colors and a sharp picture when it does work. Think I'll look for a tube to test this chassis on.

Hm. I'll be interested to know what the results are when you test that chassis on a different tube.

In my experience when the tube's shot it will get better after being on for a certain amount of time but it still won't look great. Sounds more like a cap issue to me.

Well, I've got a rejuvenator on its way so I'll be able to test the tube and see what happens. If that doesn't cure it, I'll try replacing the filter cap and go from there, but again I'm hoping the rejuvenator reveals the issue since this chassis was rebuilt only a couple years ago and hasn't gotten a ton of use.
 
UPDATE:

So I got my tube rejuvenator (Sencore CR70) and went through all of the instructions slowly to make sure I did everything correctly (double/triple checked everything.) All of the tests displayed good results with no shorts, good emission levels, good cutoff, etc. I ran the auto restore once anyways since I had the rejuvenator going.

I turned the game on with the same results. Slow warmup, taking a total of about 50 minutes, but once it warmed up, it looked fantastic as always.

During the warmup, I tested the B+ voltage. Cold (right after I powered the game up), the B+ read 119.9v. I tested it again after 15 minutes, then at the 30min mark, then 45min mark, then at 50min. It read 119.9v all the way through, not budging at all.

So now I'm wondering what the issue could be? Possibly some caps? As stated earlier, this G07 has been rebuilt by Chris. Is it possible that I need to replace the caps that weren't part of the cap kit?

Suggestions/ideas?
 
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