Mr & Mrs Pacman Restoration Help Please?

billund

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Greetings All,

I am nearly complete with my Bally Mr & Mrs Pacman Restoration, but I have one issue that needs to be cleared up before I can put a bow on it.

The Maze Light Matrix in the middle of the playfield is giving me a headache.

1. Two lights will not light. I tried two separate matrix boards and they both have the same lights out so I am starting to believe it is not the sockets.

2. One light is always on. No idea why.

Here is a video of the issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSGdaNXCSyY&feature=youtu.be

Any ideas / suggestions would be awesome.

Thanks so much,

Bill
 
It's hard to tell exactly which lights by your video, but isn't the pac lite matrix controlled by the auxilary lamp driver board? There are SCRs / Transistors that probably measure open on this board which is causing the lights not to light.

Another possibility is the header pin / connector going to the board.

If you can post exactly which light is out, that would be helpful.

Are you comfortable reading schematics? If you can post what the light is called on the schematic, I'll take a look at my manual and my game and try to help you out.

-Pat
 
Hi Pat,

Thanks so much for the post. I will have to get the info tonight, and take some more pictures. This is my first machine and restore, so I am pretty green.

As soon as I am home I will get the info together.

Thanks again.

Bill
 
Hi Pat,

Here are some pics of the board. The sockets missing lights are the ones that are out. The one with the yellow cap is always on for some reason.

8498158825_5d898a04d7_b.jpg

.
8499261324_cecc2797b7_b.jpg

.
8498154967_53802af330_b.jpg

.
8499257324_ebfdafcb1e_b.jpg



Following the lines on the board, the following are the pins for the ones that are out:

20 (right bank in the picture)

22 (left bank in the picture)

For the one that is always on:

12 (left bank in the picture)

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks again.

Bill
 
Well I decided to dig into the schematics as best I could.

The sockets that don't light according to the schematic are:

4Y Which leads to 22 on J2 and has written next to it A5J1-18 and then 58

17Y Which leads to 20 on J1 and has written next to it A5J3-9 and then 15


The socket that stays lit according to the schematic is:

7Y Which leads to 12 on J2 and has written next to it A5J1-9 and then 43


I hope this helps in tracking down the problem.

Thanks again.

Bill
 
Last edited:
Here is the schematic I found for the light driver board that shows the lights for the matrix board:

8499421044_6c0a4dc49f_b.jpg

.
8498316109_4812c0a943_b.jpg


Thanks.
 
Here is some information on how to test those particular SCRs:

-----------------
Testing the Lamp Driver SCRs POWER OFF.
You can also check the lamp driver board's SCR's using your DMM, set to the diode setting.

Check the manual's schematics to figure out which SCR controls the lamp(s) in question. This information is on the Lamp Driver schematic page. Write down the SCR's "Q" number.
Look at the connectors at the right of the schematic. There the lamp name/descriptions will be listed.
Follow this line back to the first "Q" (SCR) that intersects this line. Note the SCR number (for example, "Q8"). If the schematic lists a "**" next to the transistor, this means it's a MCR106-1. Otherwise it's a 2N5060. Also note the chip that drives this SCR ("U1"). Both these components could be damaged (but generally it's just the SCR).
You can remove the lamp driver board, or leave it installed in the game. Use your DMM set to the "diode" setting.
MCR106-1 Lamp Driver SCR test:

Put the black lead of your meter on the outside "cathode" leg (labeled "C") of the SCR.
Put the red lead of your meter on the outside "gate" leg (labeled "G") of the SCR. Your meter should read .4 to .6 volts.
Swap the meter leads. Now the meter should read 1.4 to 1.6 volts.
If your meter reads anything outside the values above, replace that MCR106-1.

----------------------

This was taken from the pinrepair website a while back. You may still find some reference to the documents online (if you search for Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games
from 1977 to 1985, Part Three.).

The SCRs in question are Q14 for yellow #4, Q55 for yellow #17, and then Q27 for yellow #7. So honestly the only ones I'd test are Q14, Q55 and Q27, and then the associated parts with those. I bet you a dollar to a doughnut that the problem is there on your main lamp driver board (A5).

Let me know how this works.

-Pat
 
Thanks so much for the help.

I apologize for my inexperience but since this is my first machine, how would you go about testing:

Q14, Q55 and Q27

I am thinking about replacing the board, but if I can just test and replace what is needed that would be awesome.

Thanks again
 
This is great to see. I only ever see beat up examples. It's nice to see one that's been given some love.
 
Thanks so much koolmoecraig. It has been a long project but I am so close to being done. Just need to get the kinks worked out with the lights.
 
Hey Quses,

I have actually done it :)

I will post some pics later tonight. As soon as I get the kinks fixed I can post some video of them under the playfield.
 
Please see below for info on how to test those SCRs with the power off, or board on the test bench. Start with the SCRs, as those are the most likely to fail. If the SCR is bad, it just needs to be replaced and you are good to go. It's very rarely anythiing else.

-Pat

Here is some information on how to test those particular SCRs:

-----------------
Testing the Lamp Driver SCRs POWER OFF.
You can also check the lamp driver board's SCR's using your DMM, set to the diode setting.

Check the manual's schematics to figure out which SCR controls the lamp(s) in question. This information is on the Lamp Driver schematic page. Write down the SCR's "Q" number.
Look at the connectors at the right of the schematic. There the lamp name/descriptions will be listed.
Follow this line back to the first "Q" (SCR) that intersects this line. Note the SCR number (for example, "Q8"). If the schematic lists a "**" next to the transistor, this means it's a MCR106-1. Otherwise it's a 2N5060. Also note the chip that drives this SCR ("U1"). Both these components could be damaged (but generally it's just the SCR).
You can remove the lamp driver board, or leave it installed in the game. Use your DMM set to the "diode" setting.
MCR106-1 Lamp Driver SCR test:

Put the black lead of your meter on the outside "cathode" leg (labeled "C") of the SCR.
Put the red lead of your meter on the outside "gate" leg (labeled "G") of the SCR. Your meter should read .4 to .6 volts.
Swap the meter leads. Now the meter should read 1.4 to 1.6 volts.
If your meter reads anything outside the values above, replace that MCR106-1.

----------------------

This was taken from the pinrepair website a while back. You may still find some reference to the documents online (if you search for Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games
from 1977 to 1985, Part Three.).

The SCRs in question are Q14 for yellow #4, Q55 for yellow #17, and then Q27 for yellow #7. So honestly the only ones I'd test are Q14, Q55 and Q27, and then the associated parts with those. I bet you a dollar to a doughnut that the problem is there on your main lamp driver board (A5).

Let me know how this works.

-Pat
 
Last edited:
Greetings all.

Sorry I have not had a chance to get a pic of the LEDs up, but I need to get the gremlins taken care of.

So I decided to get a new/refurbished 100% tested board in a rush to get things done. Well turns out that Q51 is messed up on the new board grrrrrrr.

I tested it with my multimeter (thanks to pat for the instructions) and the values were off for Q51 compared to the others. My wife was kind enough to give me a hand making a video showing the test:

http://youtu.be/gzx-0xCSprc

I am going to send it back to the seller to have Q51 replaced. So close and yet so far away.......
 
No problem.

I just ordered a whole bunch of lights off of ebay for cheap. I should have known something would be wrong with them. There is, the leads are too big and won't fit in the holes. :(

That's great that you got Q51 tested. I'd recommend, on your spare if you still have it, to test out those I commented about and see if you can replace those yourself for next time. :)

Any other questions, just ask.

-Pat

Greetings all.

Sorry I have not had a chance to get a pic of the LEDs up, but I need to get the gremlins taken care of.

So I decided to get a new/refurbished 100% tested board in a rush to get things done. Well turns out that Q51 is messed up on the new board grrrrrrr.

I tested it with my multimeter (thanks to pat for the instructions) and the values were off for Q51 compared to the others. My wife was kind enough to give me a hand making a video showing the test:

http://youtu.be/gzx-0xCSprc

I am going to send it back to the seller to have Q51 replaced. So close and yet so far away.......
 
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