Mr. Do Monitor board ID? and need help with ID parts!

morbidboy

New member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
781
Reaction score
9
Location
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Mr. Do Monitor board ID? and need help with ID parts!

so we came back to the arcade this morning and the whole place smelled like an electrical fire. Since Mr. Do monitor was off, I kinda thought that would be the culprit.

while it was on there was a red burning ember glow on the monitor board (pic 3, top left, right of the large cap), which I knew wasn't good. So I need some help to ID the board, what cap kit I need, and replace the other 2 burned parts that I have no clue what they are. He's the pics of the board, tag on the board (ID?) and pics of the glowing part.
 

Attachments

  • monboarddo.jpg
    monboarddo.jpg
    95.9 KB · Views: 81
  • idtagmondo.jpg
    idtagmondo.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 60
  • glowmon.jpg
    glowmon.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 69
  • closeupmon.jpg
    closeupmon.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 62
Last edited:
First pic I think is what a blown cap is supposed to look like. I have two that look this way. The second is a burned part (L7, the small one with the copper wire around it) and the aqua part (R103) to the right of it is the part that glows red when on.
 

Attachments

  • blowncap.jpg
    blowncap.jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 55
  • dontknow.jpg
    dontknow.jpg
    69.6 KB · Views: 50
  • dont-know-too.jpg
    dont-know-too.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 50
Your monitor is a Toei CM-F20U 19". A late seventies/early eighties Japanese monitor. Impossible to find some of the more specific parts.

R103 is a resistor. From your picture (last of your series), it really doesn't look like a resistor that was getting ready to catch fire. Now, your one picture with the glow....whatever that is, that's BAD. This is why you don't leave games running unattended, or (pointlessly) let them run all night long while you (and your family) sleep. I'm shocked a fuse doesn't blow (it should).

L7 is a coil. That's going to be very difficult to replace (or even figure out it's value and size).

Edward
 
It was that resistor that was glowing bright red.

its there an alternative monitor that would work, If I can't find the parts for it?

Your monitor is a Toei CM-F20U 19". A late seventies/early eighties Japanese monitor. Impossible to find some of the more specific parts.

R103 is a resistor. From your picture (last of your series), it really doesn't look like a resistor that was getting ready to catch fire. Now, your one picture with the glow....whatever that is, that's BAD. This is why you don't leave games running unattended, or (pointlessly) let them run all night long while you (and your family) sleep. I'm shocked a fuse doesn't blow (it should).

L7 is a coil. That's going to be very difficult to replace (or even figure out it's value and size).

Edward
 
if the small coil part is rare and I can't find any info on it, would it be better to send it out to a professional for repairs? Any suggestions?
 
if the small coil part is rare and I can't find any info on it, would it be better to send it out to a professional for repairs? Any suggestions?

If you're going to go this route, don't let them know about this thread:D.....or they'll probably turn you down.

All kidding aside.....that coil will probably have to be cannibalized from another chassis.....and that is not exactly a common chassis.

Regarding a replacement monitor....any 19" standard resolution monitor should be workable.

Edward
 
will a different monitor and board (Like a 19" Sanyo found in Nintendo) need any special hookups/adapters or changes in voltage to make it work with the Mr. Do Board?
 
It would have to be one with the inverter board or whatever because nintendos use inverted video and im pretty mr do does not. I dont think all of those sanyos had the option to do either/or


ANother option, if this tube is a 10 pin cr23 neck tube, is to get a universal chassis like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-R...hassis-19-CRT-10-Pin-Neck-Board-/110812162457

IF you have a yoke that is compatible.

or, send your chassis to chad at arcade cup and pray he can fix it.
 
We keep most of the games on 24/7 for a simple reason: We have had more problems turning the games off and on then just leaving them on.

I know what you're going to say, "but you're shorting the lifespan of a game that was only designed to last only 6 months (and that was back in the 80's)"

But I feel that you do more damage with the machines heating up and cooling off. My opinion is that if they're left on, they keep a constant working temp, causing less problems than a cold start... I really don't have charts and graphs to support my work, but 99% of all of our monitor problems have been caused by turning our machines off and on, which not only cost money and time to fix but cost us sales per hour if they're not working.


Anyways getting back to the point of this thread, anyone recommend someone that I can send the board to for repairs, if I can't find a replacement for that coil piece?

This is why you don't leave games on all the time... 2
 
We keep most of the games on 24/7 for a simple reason: We have had more problems turning the games off and on then just leaving them on.
...
But I feel that you do more damage with the machines heating up and cooling off. My opinion is that if they're left on, they keep a constant working temp, causing less problems than a cold start...

When Sage first told me this, I thought he was insane also. But his logic does add up. An arcade game is a computer, and computers tend to fail most often during startup and shutdown (usually due to heat indeed). My computer, for example, has been running 24/7 for ~7 years, with no hardware failures - whereas my tech-head monster PC builder friend shuts down regularly and has replaced every component in his rig at least once in that time due to failures.

But really when it comes down to it, the part in question here was weak or dying, and it was going to fail regardless. Instead of happening in 6 months or a year, it happened sooner because the machine is always on - but that component was bad and would require replacement sooner or later, might as well be now.

However, this situation brings to mind the primary concern of leaving these on all the time : FIRE HAZARD. While the machine doesn't care if it's on all the time or not, and might actually prefer it, it also doesn't care about burning itself down, and everything around it. Having lost everything I owned in a fire, I don't recommend the experience.
 
I'll de-solder the crispy parts this Sunday and post some pics, hoping for you guys to identify what I have to find... or if someone has a working board for sale or wants to repair it, let me know.
 
Not sure thinking my Mr Do! Might have the same chassis. Ahhh Sage. Almost forgot about rusty nails. So he trashed GorfChamp's Mr. Do!?
 
Back
Top Bottom