Mouse Trap Power Supply HELP

smalltownfarmer

New member

Donor 2011
Joined
Jul 17, 2011
Messages
202
Reaction score
0
Location
Cullman, Alabama
I just got a Mouse Trap in today. The power supply went out I think. Im having problems figuring out where its at and what it looks like. I have power going to the game but nothing comes on. I would like to find some schematics on it but I didnt have any luck. Please help fast. Thanks.
 
Power supply

Yes I plug it up andnothing lights up. I have power to the fuse and powerto the door switches. Heres a pic of what I think it could be.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00061.jpg
    DSC00061.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 24
Power supply.

I still dont know hwat it looks like, but is one from a targ different? Im lost on this but I need to figure it out quick. Thanks.
 
I posted a link to a scanned pdf copy of a manual in your original thread, and that has schematics, wiring diagrams, etc. As for what's what, you're partially right. See attached pic.

You might want to try disconnecting and reconnecting all the connectors. Often with such old connectors there will be an oxidation buildup which will cause games not to work, particularly on the power signals. Sometimes just by disconnecting and reconnecting you can get it going again, at least in the short term.

I hope you have a multimeter. You should check the +5v on a logic chip of game board, and of course you can check the voltages at each of the supply outputs (and inputs) too.

Hope that helps you out a bit.
 

Attachments

  • 2011-08-05 Mouse Trap Arcade Boardset 001.jpg
    2011-08-05 Mouse Trap Arcade Boardset 001.jpg
    64.3 KB · Views: 20
Thats the 12 volt supply. The 5 volt is a self contained deal on the bottom edge of that slide out panel. Check the bottlecap transistor on there for bad solder joints. I had one that had a bad joint there, and the diodes got so hot when you turned it on that they desoldered themselves and fell out right in front of me..lol..never had that happen before!

Theres no schematic for it either, although its pretty simple. If you dont care about original, just put in a switcher.
 
Power Supply

TheShanMan - Yes I went back to my original post and looked at it, its still up on my computer. Thanks for that link. I cant really seem to find that on there though.
Ill take them all loose and go through that. Yes the picture helped me out 100% Im lost at this stuff. Thanks you very much.

mcandresoun - I will check those to tomorrow. hanks.
Wha is a switcher? I dont care about that part being original just the outside.
 
Power supply

Also look at the top right corner theres a black spot I found. What does that mean for me? I found one off of a targ that looks like ThShanMans if I need it and could use it.
 
seems the mouse trap manual kinda sucks. I would start by checking all the interlock switches on the game. I believe it has one or two in the coin door area as well as another in the door area that has the pcb. Unfortunately the mouse trap cab design doesn't allow you to see the back of the monitor and confirm neck glow. My first concern is alway weather or not voltage is getting into the cab at all. Once I determine this I try and confirm that voltages are making it to specific components, monitor, pcb etc. Pretty sure the PS is gonna be the same as venture, pepper II targ etc as far as the voltages it outputs. Look at the pepper II or venture manual to verify the correct voltages that should come from the PS.Meter them at the pins coming into the main PCB.
 
Power Supply

I checked all the switches and the back was getting power and I got power to the front ones. There was real low voltage to the monitor. Ill try to check on the targ voltage.
 
Power Supply

Ok so I have looked over the Targ stuff this mornign, but I cant seem to figure out the voltage. Can someone help me out on this?
Also Im still wondering about a switcher?
 
It sounds like you haven't even confirmed that power is getting to the electronics inside. p1899m mentioning the interconnect switches reminded me of the fact that the power switch is mounted under the cabinet - yes, under the cabinet! So maybe you haven't found that switch. Might just need to flip it. Hopefully your MT has leg levelers on it so you can easily squeeze your fingers under there.

If it's not that simple and none of the help so far has been enough to get it running then you're really going to need a multimeter.

As for a switcher, that is short for "switching power supply". Since MT has a -12V supply, you will probably need to make sure a switcher has that (many don't). However it's also possible that MT doesn't even use the -12V supply - you'd need to follow the schematics and/or wiring to figure that one out. You can get either type of switcher from "the man" Bob Roberts. Go to http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html and search the page for "switching power supply". They're $25-$30.
 
Mouse Trap fixed kind of.

TheShanMan yes the switch on the bottom is a pain to get to because it has no levelers but that ws the first thing I looked for when I got it and found it at the front in about the middle. So I cleaned the connectons down on the power supply and all that good stuff and bam it fired up when I plugged it up. Now the only thing wrong is the yellow button is not working and the screen is a tad sideways. Im going to try and adjust that and figure out the button. I will check with Bob Roberts, because I would like to have an extra so Im prepared. Thanks for everyones help. Thats a little less stress.
 
Good news! By "button" do you mean the light, or the input (i.e. do the yellow doors open and close when you press it)? If light, it'll just need a new bulb (Bob probably has whatever bulb it uses - I've never opened up mine so I don't know what bulb is used). If input, it may need a new micro switch (again, available from Bob) or it may also be that the switch has popped out of place and just needs to be popped back in. Whatever the exact problem, you're down to "simple" stuff so I'm sure you're excited about the progress.

As for the screen, do you mean the image is rotated by several degrees (as opposed to the monitor somehow physically sitting in there wrong)? If so, your problem will be the yoke on the neck of the tube. That's the big ring with all the wire windings on it. There is a screw to keep the yoke locked in place which may be loose. Loosen it if needed, then carefully rotate the yoke, but avoid shifting the yoke forward or backward on the neck. Otherwise you'll end up with picture problems (red, green, blue don't converge to form a tightly focused dot as well as possible color purity (splotchy) problems). Also be careful to keep those rubber "bumpers" in place. They should be glued to the tube but sometimes they come loose. They help keep the yoke aligned properly. Then tighten the screw back up but obviously be careful not to over tighten.

Whether or not you get a spare power supply boils down to how much you want to learn to work on arcade games. Power supplies, particularly the MT supply, are pretty simple to repair if faulty. Personally I'd rather repair what I've got in there if it ever fails, but to each his own. Nothing wrong with throwing a switcher in there if that's what you want.

P.S. Would you mind rewarding those of us who have offered advice with some pictures of your game? I'd love to see it.
 
Mt Small stuff

Yes the yellow button clicker switch deal is working properly, but its not opening the doors. The other do work fine. I use to the push switch things, just bigger ones for chicken house equipment. I think someone has messed with the wirring so I trying to look at the manual to see If I can figure it out.

I will take a closer look at the monitor and see, thats was just a quick explore of it. Ill take a picture and post of it being crooked. Then Ill take all of your helpfull tips there and see If that could be my problem. Thats really great info. Thank You.

Absolutley I will post some pictures f the game also.
 
Pictures

The camera is not the best but here she is as a new arival. I also have a pice of the original side art on the paper stuff to. Its not the cheap stuf off of ebay. I know because I have two of those that came with it and I can tell a huge huge huge difference.
ShanMan would you mind posting a pic of your wrring that goes to your buttons for the doors just so I can see whats original. Thanks.
Oh I forgot you can see the crooked pic I was talking about.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00062.jpg
    DSC00062.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 12
  • DSC00065.jpg
    DSC00065.jpg
    100.1 KB · Views: 10
  • DSC00069.jpg
    DSC00069.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 12
  • DSC00067.jpg
    DSC00067.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 12
based on what you say is wrong with the switch i would look for it to either be a bad cherry switch or a broken wire/ solder joint. Probably the ground wire but could also be the other wire to the switch.

as for the image being off that is probably gonna require a monitor yoke adjustment which kinda sucks on a MT because i believe you need to pull the monitor out of the cab to do this. Basically the screw that holds the yoke needs to be loosened and the yoke needs to be physically rotated slightly to put the picture back to the correct orientation. If you are comfortable with monitors the best way to do this is with the monitor on so you can see the image and set it properly. If you are not comfortable with having it on you can adjust then power on and repeat until the image is correct. Be careful either way and do not over tighten the screw when you tighten it back to hold the yoke. Remember there is no fixing a cracked tube.
 
Back
Top Bottom