blinddog
Well-known member
as for the can cap, yes you should have the 4 in 1 can cap but the xm-701 had an optional second 5000mf one that helps create +5v that the XM-700 does not
Motorola XM501 - Cap Kit Questions inside
- Thread starter Superully
- Start date
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OP
Superully
Active member
necessary to replace it?
blinddog
Well-known member
I wouldn't unless I had to. I mean yes it would probably be a good idea but there's some odd cap sizes in there that I haven't been able to find a good replacements for. Maybe you'll have better luck then me finding them and if you do please let me know.
And I looked over some older XM schematics I had and they did not have C51. So I'm going to change my mind and say that if you can not find C51 in your monitor then it does not use it and my memory is not as good as I thought it was. There doesn't seem to be a lot of documentation on this model unfortunately
KenLayton
In Memoriam
This company will make the "twist prong" can style capacitors for you:
DH Distributors
P.O. Box 48623
Wichita, Ks. 67201
or
651 South Yale Street
Wichita, Ks. 67218-2043
Phone: (316) 684-0050 or 1-888-684-0050 toll free
They don't have a website and sometimes it can be tough to get ahold of anyone there. Just tell them how many sections the can needs to be and the value of the capacitor in each section of it. He will make the can to order. Some of the antique radio repair guys use this company to make the capacitors needed to repair old radios.
DH Distributors
P.O. Box 48623
Wichita, Ks. 67201
or
651 South Yale Street
Wichita, Ks. 67218-2043
Phone: (316) 684-0050 or 1-888-684-0050 toll free
They don't have a website and sometimes it can be tough to get ahold of anyone there. Just tell them how many sections the can needs to be and the value of the capacitor in each section of it. He will make the can to order. Some of the antique radio repair guys use this company to make the capacitors needed to repair old radios.
OP
OP
Superully
Active member
today i put the circuit board back into the monitor and anxiously powered up the game.
the picture has gone from this ...
... to that!
wonderful! there are still some problems with the orientation, but this will (hopefully) only be a matter of some knob turning. i haven't credited the game and tried whether the pcb was still working, but for now IT LOOKS GREAT!!!
thx a lot for your input & help, guys. always impressive so see what a difference new tiny shiny capacitors can make!
the picture has gone from this ...
... to that!
wonderful! there are still some problems with the orientation, but this will (hopefully) only be a matter of some knob turning. i haven't credited the game and tried whether the pcb was still working, but for now IT LOOKS GREAT!!!
thx a lot for your input & help, guys. always impressive so see what a difference new tiny shiny capacitors can make!
KevinMullins
Active member
Excellent job !!
Helluva difference.
This has inspired me to do the Motorola I have been putting off for a couple years now.
(It's in a pong clone type cocktail game)
Helluva difference.
This has inspired me to do the Motorola I have been putting off for a couple years now.
(It's in a pong clone type cocktail game)
KenLayton
In Memoriam
Those monitors are 30 to 35 years old so they definitely need to be recapped. You see the "night and day" difference it makes?
Zinfer
Well-known member
At C16, I'm presupposing a 1uf25v would suffice as a replacement for the 1uf15v cap? Couldn't find any 1uf15v electrolytics.
Yep, that'll work. You can always go up in voltage when replacing an electrolytic cap.
Edward
Zinfer
Well-known member
Thanks man. Putting in another order for yet more caps. I'm getting quite a stash. Hope they don't dry out from non-use.
Shupac
Active member
This thread helped me resurrect the Motorola XM-701 from a friend's Night Driver. Replacing the electrolytic capacitors C1, C2, C4, C6, C16, C36, C24, and C51 took this old monitor from the "before" picture (attached) to the "after" picture.
My original C16 was a 16V 1uF electrolytic, not a tantalum. Using an electrolytic at C16 seems to work fine.
The input to this monitor is ordinary NTSC composite video. For testing, I stripped one end of an RCA cable and connected the two conductors across R1. The video signal goes to the end of R1 closer to the "BRN" test pin; video ground goes to the other side of R1. Plugged the cable into a DVD player and watched "Avatar" on a black-and-white arcade game monitor made in March 1977.
My original C16 was a 16V 1uF electrolytic, not a tantalum. Using an electrolytic at C16 seems to work fine.
The input to this monitor is ordinary NTSC composite video. For testing, I stripped one end of an RCA cable and connected the two conductors across R1. The video signal goes to the end of R1 closer to the "BRN" test pin; video ground goes to the other side of R1. Plugged the cable into a DVD player and watched "Avatar" on a black-and-white arcade game monitor made in March 1977.
Attachments
This is amazing!
