Motorola M7000 can capacitor replacement

timberterror

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I have a mostly working M7000 in my Sprint 1. It will look fine for a few minutes then twitch and move. I recapped it and I can get the B+ at 73 dead on. After some research it looks like it may be the Can capacitor.

Any ideas where to get these caps....

20mfd - 200volts
400mfd - 125volts
600mfd - 100volts
200mfd - 50volts

Any idea where to get these or what else I can check on the monitor would be great. Thanks, Barry
 
Sorry for awakening the dead but I'm in the same spot now. Need to replace the can capacitor and as already stated the values on the caps are quite strange.

Kens link does not work anymore unfortunately.
 
Security to the rescue again! will order that one
 

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Bought a kit from Security for my SI Deluxe.
Here is my attempt at installing the new caps in the old can.

First I used a pipe cutter to cut the old can as close to the bottom as I could. The old cap guts slid right out, nice and clean.

I pulled the old contacts out of the phenolic base.

Soldered wires to both leads of each cap, black for GND and different colors on the positive so I could ID each cap. Used heat shrink on each connection for insulation.

Stuffed the new caps in the top of the old can and poked the positive wire of each cap through the base at the correct symbol, and brought all the GNDs through the center.

Soldered each GND wire to the mounting tabs on the old cap. This insures all GNDs are tied together and will be soldered to the board when the can is installed.

Stripped each of the colored positive wires and pre-tinned them.

I cut 4 small slits in the old can so I could fit it over the base of the old cap. Then used the thin silver tape to seal the can.

Cap is now ready to install.



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Bought a kit from Security for my SI Deluxe.
Here is my attempt at installing the new caps in the old can.

First I used a pipe cutter to cut the old can as close to the bottom as I could. The old cap guts slid right out, nice and clean.

I pulled the old contacts out of the phenolic base.

Soldered wires to both leads of each cap, black for GND and different colors on the positive so I could ID each cap. Used heat shrink on each connection for insulation.

Stuffed the new caps in the top of the old can and poked the positive wire of each cap through the base at the correct symbol, and brought all the GNDs through the center.

Soldered each GND wire to the mounting tabs on the old cap. This insures all GNDs are tied together and will be soldered to the board when the can is installed.

Stripped each of the colored positive wires and pre-tinned them.

I cut 4 small slits in the old can so I could fit it over the base of the old cap. Then used the thin silver tape to seal the can.

Cap is now ready to install.

Bravo! You did a great job!
 
i wish i could find a couple of the old cans so i could do a video on the cap replacement to help others out on all the best ways to replace them.
 
i wish i could find a couple of the old cans so i could do a video on the cap replacement to help others out on all the best ways to replace them.

I know some one that has access to LOTS of old can caps. Want me to reach out them?
 
Here are pictures of some single section can capacitors I restuffed on a 16mm projector amplifier several years ago. I used some JB Weld around the can to glue it back together.
 

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Thank you MrGorf and Ken! :)

Your solution is by far the most good looking Gorf. I do like that the can capsule is still there, thinking of perhaps just cut its wires and attach the new caps as a cluster below it. Not as nice, but easier
 
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Just wondering - how bad was it when one of these caps blew. As far as I could tell, there wasn't any kind of venting in these cans. Must have made a big mess, or did the can contain everything?
 
Just wondering - how bad was it when one of these caps blew. As far as I could tell, there wasn't any kind of venting in these cans. Must have made a big mess, or did the can contain everything?

The ones I have replaced over the years were either open circuit or simply had a slight ooze around the solder terminals. No spectacular explosions or burst cans.
 
For the motorola xm-series, tec tm and wg19k1001 I usually place the replacement caps underneath the chassis frame and move the leads from the can cap to the new caps. Then i leave the can cap in place but disconnected.
 
For the motorola xm-series, tec tm and wg19k1001 I usually place the replacement caps underneath the chassis frame and move the leads from the can cap to the new caps. Then i leave the can cap in place but disconnected.

You need to install terminal strips under the chassis to attach the new capacitors and wiring to. This involves figuring out where to put the new strips and where you'll need to drill the holes to mount the terminal strips. Sometimes there simply is not enough room under the chassis to do that and re-stuffing the old can is the only way.
 
I've never re-stuffed any of these can caps. There are two on the G02 I need to do... Hmm...
 
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