Most Obsessive Over The Top Thing You’ve Done In A Restore

I'm REALLY guilty of spending way too much time getting B+ values dead on. It can't 107.9, it can't be 108.1…it HAS to be 108.

Jason
 
Nothing too crazy in a restore I have done on a video game. Now on the other hand, I got crazy with chrome on an Addams Family pinball I did.
 
How do you know you DMM is 100% dead-nuts accurate? Better double-check the calibration on that too.

Sorry...I just ruined your weekend didn't I? LOL
Yes you did. I already change my DMM battery after each moment of use to ensure that it's 100% with every measurement.

Jason
 
But when you lock on, isn't it great to be able to sleep again?

Jason
Absolutely!

How do you know you DMM is 100% dead-nuts accurate? Better double-check the calibration on that too.

Sorry...I just ruined your weekend didn't I? LOL

Damn you!
I will now be spending the next two months calibrating EVERYTHING.
 
Everyone beat me too it. Damn! But I'm glad somebody ruined everyone's day. :ROFLMAO:

Damn you!
I will now be spending the next two months calibrating EVERYTHING.

That's pointless because your meter just isn't good enough. Until you have an HP 3458A you'll always be lacking.
That beast was designed in the late 80's BTW. But you can still buy it new....because it's *that* good. And it's fast!

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Lessee.....to measure 108 VDC, put it on 100 VDC range (120 VDC full scale).....you could measure out to 108.000000 VDC. That's +/- 1uV.
I think it might be hard to adjust in B+ though. Would take some effort to get it dialed in just right. :hmmmm2:
 
Stalked the original Atari devs and artists that created Paperboy, sent them little plaques with their name, role in the project and asked them to sign the plaques with an included sharpie then return them to me to put on the bezel and CP of my restore.

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This was yours and you sold it to John?

Had the pleasure of recapping the powersupply and replacing the video cable. New header, new connectors and new wires. That made it stable as shit so we could move it without the video going out.
 
This was yours and you sold it to John?

Had the pleasure of recapping the powersupply and replacing the video cable. New header, new connectors and new wires. That made it stable as shit so we could move it without the video going out.
Yeah he bought it from me at CAX quite a while back now. The second machine I ever restored so my knowledge of headers, caps and other mystical things was negligible.
 
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I removed the cover off my NeoGeo MVS PCB, sanded it down to remove a very phallic rust stain on it, then painted it in a matching red, cut SNK logos and slot markers out of white vinyl using our Cricut, and applied the decals. Now the MVS PCB has a beautiful cover. That no one playing the machine will ever see.
And it looks amazing! Totally worth it.
 
Most over the top?
Well, I just brushed a coat of polyester resin over the top panels of Data East cabinet # 270667 to slow its entropic contributions.
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This poor thing (which maybe started life as a Kung-Fu Master?) has been so inexcusably violated and neglected that the panels facing the sun and rain would shed wood particles if you even looked at the thing sternly.
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Biggest question really now is what to put back in it since it was neither the Sky Shark burned into the tube and plastered on the sides nor the Tetris indicated by the marquee and the jamma board that it came to me with.

Oh, the neglect.
At least the termites didn't get to eat most of this one.
I guess they prefer ply to particle board.
 
Restored a DL using only original screws and screws holes, after sanding and restoring the screws.

Scott C.
 
Sanded and primer the bottom of the recent Spy Hunter cockpit just to lock out any potential possibilities of swollen bottom due to water or moisture.

Spent way too many countless hours adjusting monitors just to put it back to the original settings.
 
Well....my Japanese daytona usa 2 twin marquee light bulb. It's a 54 inch pink fluorescent and mine was burned out. I contacted the company that made the bulb and they told me to reach out to a Japanese supplier in order to get the bulb. I almost gave up, but it wanted it original... so I randomly found a Japanese lighting company through many google searches. Their entire page was Japanese with the only English being their email address. On a whim, I reached out to them to see if they could help me out and ship to the USA. They got back to me and were willing to help and get the light! They were excited to help me as a few employees remembered the game and mentioned how it was cool that I was fixing one up. They never did business to the US before but after $100 shipping cost, i got it in the mail only 1 week later and in perfect shape. Still looks great!
 
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