mortal kombat pcb

xrodney

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hi, i was reading the manual and it says that that the cabinet must have -5v. some says that -5v can damage an mk1 pcb. which one is true?

i have a 2 in 1 jamma switcher and the picture when 1 switch to the second connector is not good. when there is the ro check the picture seems smudged and there are like shadows in the game, can it be from the pcb?
 
i tried to run my MK1 boards in a JAMMA cab with no -5v [the switching power supply didn't have it and i didn't realize it,] and the boards would reset every so often. sometimes it took an hour or two, sometimes it was every few seconds. finally figured out that the board set required -5v, swapped out the switcher for one that had it, and it's worked reliably ever since.

oh, yeah, and if you have the Chinese-made 2-in-1 JAMMA switcher that Yaton and others were selling, it's know to have crap video and cause problems like that. the 6-in-1 gets much better reviews, though neither seem to be as highly thought of as the 2-in-1 from Mike's Arcade.
 
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i tried to run my MK1 boards in a JAMMA cab with no -5v [the switching power supply didn't have it and i didn't realize it,] and the boards would reset every so often. sometimes it took an hour or two, sometimes it was every few seconds. finally figured out that the board set required -5v, swapped out the switcher for one that had it, and it's worked reliably ever since.

oh, yeah, and if you have the Chinese-made 2-in-1 JAMMA switcher that Yaton and others were selling, it's know to have crap video and cause problems like that. the 6-in-1 gets much better reviews, though neither seem to be as highly thought of as the 2-in-1 from Mike's Arcade.

I'm waiting on diodes for my Multi Kombat (for the kick harnesses). I have to solder another -5 jumper on my 6-in-1 board for MK2, but if MK1 needs it as well then I'll have to do that while I have my mini-cab tore apart. (I concocted all kinds of psychotic suspension mods for the boards)

for the record, I'm running a Y-unit board. not sure if ya'll are talking about the newer T-unit kind.
 
I know that I ran a MK1 PCB in my cabinet with -5 volts, and never had a problem. MK2 requires it, or you will not get any sound.
-Mark
 
I guess in all fairness I ran MK1 with -5V too. my KI cab was home to all 4 MK's at different points. :D

in a commercial setting, no less.

ok, so I'll run -5 to MK1 anyway.
 
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