Mortal Kombat 3 MK3 Wolf Unit UE13 Error.... WTF?

Broodwich

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So i'm working on a UMK3 Wolf Unit and I came across something interesting, the U33 Custom Chip comes up bad but when it does during the boot test it says UE13 is bad on the screen...

Now I've looked all over this board and well tho I may have glasses and might not see the best , I cannot for the life of me find this chip! >.<

There are only 2 chips on the board that i cannot ID and that is the one next to Xtal Y4 and the other is between U53 and U61 (next to U59)

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Come on man...I thought you were better than this :)

SAM_07842.jpg

you really wanna go there duder?

ok here goes.

I know where U33 is

lets talk about UE13 which is displayed on the screen.

Come'on man i know your better than that. :D


edit: i guess i should have clarified in the first post, not worried about u33, i wanna know what's up with UE13 lol :D
 
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Ah, sorry. Looks like I mis-read what you were trying to convey. I just noticed that the text says UE13 but the image shows U33. That's my bad. There is no UE13. That's why you can't find it. U33 is the main processor for the Wolf Unit's. UE13 was the main processor for the T-Units. They simply goofed on the text when they designed the Wolf Unit. Basically, it's a mis-print. It says UE13, but it's supposed to say U33.
 
Ah, sorry. Looks like I mis-read what you were trying to convey. I just noticed that the text says UE13 but the image shows U33. That's my bad. There is no UE13. That's why you can't find it. U33 is the main processor for the Wolf Unit's. UE13 was the main processor for the T-Units. They simply goofed on the text when they designed the Wolf Unit. Basically, it's a mis-print. It says UE13, but it's supposed to say U33.

BINGO!!! (Smash TV style)

now to buy some surface mount soldering equipment.

Thanks buddy!
 
That's not the main processor, it's a DMA controller.
 
Are you replacing the chip or just re-flowing the joints? I've always wondered how much heat one of the SMCs can take before they too become faulty. Has anyone attempted transplanting a similar custom chip from one board to another - I've seen some YouTube videos on hot air working before but I'm just curious. Would appear to be a very, very delicate process - even worth attempting?
 
Are you replacing the chip or just re-flowing the joints? I've always wondered how much heat one of the SMCs can take before they too become faulty. Has anyone attempted transplanting a similar custom chip from one board to another - I've seen some YouTube videos on hot air working before but I'm just curious. Would appear to be a very, very delicate process - even worth attempting?

i'm probably not going to mess with it or maybe my buddy will come back from his repair vacation :D (i've got a fairly large stack of boards that need attention). I did think to re flow the joints but I'm worried about bridging one or more of those joints.



For giggles i decided i'd try swapping the roms out with another board that i was having issues with (a rampage world tour). Funny with those roms installed it actually calls U33 the correct name U33.
 
i'm probably not going to mess with it or maybe my buddy will come back from his repair vacation :D (i've got a fairly large stack of boards that need attention). I did think to re flow the joints but I'm worried about bridging one or more of those joints.



For giggles i decided i'd try swapping the roms out with another board that i was having issues with (a rampage world tour). Funny with those roms installed it actually calls U33 the correct name U33.

My trick is not to use any solder (re-flow the existing), if at all possible (on those very closely spaced legs) - or a microscopic amount on the end of the iron tip if the contacts don't bond. Make sure the contacts are as clean as you can possibly get them. Don't put the solder line near it (like when doing through hole working) or you will bridge the pins. You need a really steady hand too, don't blame you if you pass on it.

Apologies if this is common knowledge.
 
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I would think if you hit it with flux and then drag the iron with solder in one motion across the legs the solder should all go where it needs to go.

of course, I speak based on some youtube videos and not personal experience. :D
 
Those vids always make it look oh so easy, I've seen them too and would love for it to work out that well.... I just know it won't.

Oh and I also don't have a very steady hand :(
 
What about covering the chip with foil and just leaving the legs exposed and using a great gun? It is really all a rework station is anyways.
 
I would think if you hit it with flux and then drag the iron with solder in one motion across the legs the solder should all go where it needs to go.

of course, I speak based on some youtube videos and not personal experience. :D

Those vids always make it look oh so easy, I've seen them too and would love for it to work out that well.... I just know it won't.

Oh and I also don't have a very steady hand :(

That's how I do it.

You guys really do need to come down here for a repair party sometime. :)

Yes, that SMT chip is a common one for solder cracking.
 
You guys really do need to come down here for a repair party sometime. :)

Yes, that SMT chip is a common one for solder cracking.

I might, MIGHT attempt this.... heh



But But But, Ray.... If I come down there for a repair party that means I won't have to send you anymore boards!.!.!
 
I picked up a bottle of soft KM solder flux at the electronics store the other day, and it says it is not for PCBs, and it is for soldering wires to steel and aluminum.

Did i get the wrong stuff. It is GC brand solder flux.
 
I picked up a bottle of soft KM solder flux at the electronics store the other day, and it says it is not for PCBs, and it is for soldering wires to steel and aluminum.

Did i get the wrong stuff. It is GC brand solder flux.

Post the model info and UPC code.
 
I picked up a bottle of soft KM solder flux at the electronics store the other day, and it says it is not for PCBs, and it is for soldering wires to steel and aluminum.

Did i get the wrong stuff. It is GC brand solder flux.

I use Kester no clean. (on the rare occasion that i need more flux than is in the wire already.

if it says it's not for PCBs then it's not for PCBs. definitely not if it's for soldering steel to aluminum.
 
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