Mortal Kombat 3 Hantarex Polo 25" monitor

wreckitralphster

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I have an Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3 with no video. Removed monitor and chassis and started at incoming power. Made my way to TH101, which looks like the main power supply transformer. It had good supply voltage but no output. The part is labeled Semar 23046014 28028011. My question is do these fail regularly? Or is there something down the line that fried it. I haven't done a huge search for the part, but does anyone know where I can get one of these? thanks, Ralph
 

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i dont know much of anything about polo's.

but you should cap it first and re-flow the chassis.

looks to me that one of the caps is blown open and it will not work like that at all.

other than a cap and re-flow that is all i have ever done to polo's.

i do not like them at all. great picture when they work but after that i trash them.

Peace
BUffett
 
they came with 2 kinds. I had one of those on a chassis that made some crazy ticking sounds, so I changed it with another one off a parts chassis and it went away lol

Polos are very interesting to work on. I strongly encourage that you meter for continuity everywhere, cause they're prone to cracking. I had a chassis that quit working and I was really severely grinding my gears trying to figure out wtf went wrong and it turned out to be several cracked traces around the flyback.

lot of trace scraping and installing jumper wires... and that chassis quit again on me anyway, nuked the HOT. I put a new one in and got it to work again, but I'm not running it.
 
I worked on this a while today. I originally bought the game without the monitor working. I connected the game board in Street Fighter and it seems to work fine. Getting back to the monitor. When I measured TH101 (marked in blue in the attachment), I read each lead to ground on the input and each of them had around 120 volts. Then I read the output side and have nothing. This led me to think TH101 was bad. That doesn't seem to be the case. I should have read across 1 and 5, then 9 and 11. When I did this I get no voltage, with tells me the problem is somewhere between Pin 3 on J101 (marked yellow) and TH101. I looked at C106 and C108 (marked red) and find them very swollen. Checking the size on the board they are 330uf 200v, the schematic calls for 470uf 200v. I'm guessing they went out and someone threw those in and it worked for a bit. I guess I need to find a cap kit and go from there. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the assistance.
 

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those are the filter caps, the big ones. without those, I think you would have no power right? and they're swollen cause of the incorrect values, pushing a lot more juice through them than what they're meant for.

worth noting, those are not included in cap kits due to the cost (they cost a lot more than the little caps) and mainly because they don't have a high rate of failure.. the cap kits only address the caps that commonly fail. I actually think there's a few little caps in the middle of the chassis that don't get replaced cause they're not even included in the cap kit.

lots of people say digikey is a good place to order from.
 
those are the filter caps, the big ones. without those, I think you would have no power right? and they're swollen cause of the incorrect values, pushing a lot more juice through them than what they're meant for.

worth noting, those are not included in cap kits due to the cost (they cost a lot more than the little caps) and mainly because they don't have a high rate of failure.. the cap kits only address the caps that commonly fail. I actually think there's a few little caps in the middle of the chassis that don't get replaced cause they're not even included in the cap kit.

lots of people say digikey is a good place to order from.

I don't have any measurable power. When I read to ground it has about 120 volts, but reading across anything comes up zero. I found a TV repair place that gave me the big caps for $2.50 each. I plan on installing tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
watching this thread, mecha loves beating insubordinate polo's into submission.
 
I changed to 2 caps (C106 and 108). I have power now, but still not working. At test point 6, which I think would be my B+, I have 70 volts. I found a polo flowchart and followed it down to checking C112 and ZD101. They both check good. I'm leaning towards the T101. Is there a way to check it?
 
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by T101, you referring to the transistor mounted to the heatsink in the power supply section? I had one of those go bad, used to blow the chassis fuse to smithereens lol.

I don't have any idea what could be causing your problem however. :(
 
Replaced the T101 transistor and now I get a ticking sound. Not working yet, but at least it's doing something different. From what I've read elsewhere, could be flyback ordered it, we'll see.
 
Shorts?

Remove the HOT t114 or bu508a then plug it in..
still have ticking?

While testing any part in circuit and it test shorted
it should test the same way out of circuit if it is shorted
in circuit all parts are tied in with other parts and not a good
way to test one part alone.

If the t101 trans is shorted it will blow the fuse.
you won't hear ticking if t101 is not working


The ticking is heard only when theres a short on any secondary voltages
from the smpsTH101 shown in picture. at tp,6,7,8 and 9
it will draw more current then normal
and the primary side of th101 will putout a pulse to pin2 of ic101
disabling the osc or error amp in ic101..thats why you hear a ticking noise..

You have to use a cold ground when testing B+
TP 6 what is the voltage??? like across c121 it has a cold ground and
B+ or tp6 on the + side of cap.

you can also remove power and read the ohms at tp6,7,8,9
as well.. all tp should have high ohms or if theres a short on the
test point it will diable the osc or ic101.
Good Luck!
 
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