Mortal Kombat 2 Restoration

Oh, wait you have no continuity between the disconnect near the control panel and edge connector? So that wire needs replaced or it's not seated well in the disconnect itself. Pop off the small piece of plastic and with a small flat blade screw driver, firmly push said wire into the connector. Aim for the center of the wire.
 

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I have been distracted lately with house projects, so sadly not.

I should get a chance to work on it tonight though.


Anyone have any recommendations on where to get some PCB feet? I need to get everything secured to the cabinet.
 
I have been distracted lately with house projects, so sadly not.

I should get a chance to work on it tonight though.


Anyone have any recommendations on where to get some PCB feet? I need to get everything secured to the cabinet.

You can get regular PCB feet on Ebay, but I prefer the ones on arcadeplastics.com (the proprietor is a board member and has other cool stuff like the "Any Coin" mechs.
 
I have enjoyed reading this thread. I picked up an MK2 just recently and so will be going down this path a little. Everything is accounted for but the monitor is dead (so I will be restoring my first monitor!), but otherwise it appears to be working (hard to tell with no screen, but it plays blind).

For those who have worked on MK2 before - is the only way to get the monitor chassis out is to completely remove the whole monitor from the front? It doesn't seem like there's much room to get at it from the back...
 
I have enjoyed reading this thread. I picked up an MK2 just recently and so will be going down this path a little. Everything is accounted for but the monitor is dead (so I will be restoring my first monitor!), but otherwise it appears to be working (hard to tell with no screen, but it plays blind).

For those who have worked on MK2 before - is the only way to get the monitor chassis out is to completely remove the whole monitor from the front? It doesn't seem like there's much room to get at it from the back...

You should be able to pull the chassis from the back fairly easily without having to pull the whole monitor out the front. Post a few pics.
 
I went ahead and got a big box of PCB feet off of eBay. I will probably end up needing them by the time I get done with my latest batch of machines.
 
Well, last night I opened up the connector and did some tests. I eventually pulled the wires out and connected them directly and joined a third wire to them so I could check continuity at the PCB. Sadly, I do have continuity all the way to the board. So that means I am getting signal all the way to the PCB but that one control is failing. Any ideas what to check now?
 
Bad connection at the jamma pin or the pin is bent back and not touching the pcb trace pad. Broken trace on the pcb itself maybe. If you have another jamma pcb u could pop that in and see if down works.
 
I put a 60 in 1 in it, but that didn't work right either. The image to the screen was garbled and none of the controls worked. I checked the VGA output, to make sure that the 60 in 1 wasn't broken, but that worked fine. I also made sure that the switching power supply was set to the right voltage, as it is output 5.02 volts.
 
You should be able to pull the chassis from the back fairly easily without having to pull the whole monitor out the front. Post a few pics.

Yep, you are right and thanks for prompting me to give it a try. It's a bit of a squeeze but the chassis comes out the back.

Just posting a picture of the restored monitor. Finally got it all up and running yesterday. Not a bad effort for a first try!
 

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I just picked up a MKII cabinet a couple days ago that had been converted to Golden Tee. Has a couple beat up corners on the back side and they cut a small hole in the side of the CP box and put in a credit card reader, but otherwise the artwork appears to be complete under some black paint. Looking forward to removing that and seeing the condition of the art.

I'm very new to the hobby. Any advice on removing the paint? I was thinking Citristrip. Will that work fine without harming the artwork or is there something better?
 
A couple images of the cab. Forgot to mention, they also cut the coin door to put in a bill acceptor, which was already removed, so I'll need at least a new upper, but ideally both.
 

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Take your time and use the papertowel method to keep it from drying off the the sides while it is soaking.


I need to get back to working on this. I pulled the board once this past month I was at home helping with the new baby, but I couldn't find an issue on the board itself. I am going to try to reseat all the chips and adjust the voltage and see if that fixes the issue.
 
I am vowing to get this thing done this Sunday! Please hold me to it on Monday if I don't show up with pictures of it working correctly!
 
So, here is my progress so far today.

I can get the game to run, still no player 1 down though, by lowering the voltage to around 5V even. Whenever I do that though, player movement sometimes goes out altogether and the attacks sometimes don't work either. Also, for some reason the monitor colors look off a little for some reason. Why would the power adjustments affect that?

When I get the power level up again to around 5.10v, I get a bad rom error on uj12. So I thought I would order the new set of rom revisions off of ebay to see if that fixes the issue.
 
I also changed out the t-molding on the top, the control panel sides and front. I left the lower t molding alone as the original was in decent shape and I don't think that you can really tell a difference.

I am just waiting on the ROMs to get in, and I will attempt to fix the board.
 
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