Mortal Kombat 2 Restoration

Also, MK2 used the gray Player 4 harness. MK3/4 used the blue Player 3 harness. They should be pinned the same except for the added wire for Run, but just for the hell of it, switch over to the gray Player 4 harness.
 
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I was really busy last night, so I didn't get a chance to work on it, but I did get a chance to take a few more pics of it.

Another shot of the Control panel.




A couple of the hanging PCB. I still need to get some PCB feet and put them in there.




 
Could use a better view of the control panel but. . . What I can see of the player one side it appears u have low kick and high kick backwards woth that blue wire coming off of high kick, low kick should have the blue wire. I also see a blue wire coming off of player two high kick, if true it should be low kick.
 
Another thing to try, fire up the game and choose Liu kang and try to do his special moves as he has one for each high/low kick/punch. Forward forward high punch and he should throw his fireball from a standing position. Forward forward low punch is a fireball from a crouching position. Forward forward high kick is his flying kick and hold low kick for about 5 seconds then release for the bicycle kick. Although on the early revisions (someone correct me if im wrong) lui kang may not have the bycicle kick
 
Well now that mt thinking cap is firmly on my head (coffee in my belly) we are making this overly difficult. Ignore what I said about lui kang and get in to your service menu, choose diagnostics then switch test. Hit a button and the corresponding button should light up on screen. This will tell you if your buttons are correct or not.
 
So last night I had just a few minutes to look at this and run over some diagnostics. After failing to put it into test mode, as the switch seems to do nothing, I looked at the hardware more closely. I took the suggestion of trying to swap out the two connectors on the harness, but that didn't work as the pin outs are a little different. So I decided to just start disconnecting everything until hings stopped working. So I unplugged the blue wired section from the harness, and nothing stopped working. Everything worked just as it had before. So I unplugged the purple wired section from the harness as well, and the only thing that stopped working was Player 2 start. So I took another look at the wiring itself. Looking closely at the wires, I noticed that in the rats nest of wiring on the controls, that they had cut several wires and spliced them into others. I assume that they did this to convert it. Now fortunately, the wires are all still there, I just need to connect them back together again. Hopefully I will get a chance to do that tonight.
 
What a PITA, But with a little time, solder and some heat shrink tubing you will get that mangled rats nest looking like a well repaired harness again
 
So I spliced the wires back together for the low punch and low kick, and swapped them back to the spots that they are supposed to be at. That fixed everything but the issue with the Player one down. I swapped out the switch with a brand new one wondering if that was the issue but it isn't. So then I followed the wire all the way to the PCB. It goes into this little plastic box that I can't seem to open and then comes out to connect to the PCB via the JAMMA connector.











I guess that I need to test the Jamma connector where the signal comes in to make sure that it is getting the signal and move from there right?
 
Make sure you have continuity from the jamma connector to the down switch on P1. If you do, it's a pcb issue or that switch isn't getting a good ground. If you don't, then there's a break in the wire somewhere. The white box is a ferrite core. Just shields from interference. It just clamps closed and can be opened with a little flat head screw driver.
 
Sadly, this weekend was super busy and the only work I got done on this was touching up the black paint in a few places. Now that I have done that, I am considering just repainting all of the black on the cabinet so it doesn't look out of place.
 
Okay, so I have convinced myself that I need to paint the black on the back and top of this cabinet. Should it be flat black or glossy?
 
i believe it is more of a satin or semi gloss. that is what I have used in the past.
 
i believe it is more of a satin or semi gloss. that is what I have used in the past.

I stopped by Walmart on the way and picked up a small can of Canyon Black in a satin finish. Unfortunately, that was all they had that might work for me. I will give that a shot this week sometime and see if that doesn't make the whole thing look a 1000 times better.

Any word on getting player one down switch to work?

Not yet. I am busy this week prepping for my Wife's Birthday today, Yard sale on Saturday, and Mother's Day on Sunday. My first chance that I can get, I will test the continuity between the switch and the edge connector.
 
Here are some pics of the top and back after I painted them. They probably could have used a good sanding before hand, but I think that this would do nicely.



 
Oh, and I should note, that I tested the continuity between the harness and the edge connector. I got between the switch and the harness connection, but not from the other side of the harness connection to the edge connector. I pried the little box off the harness but I didn't see any breaks underneath that. Any ideas?
 
Maybe a bad micro switch? Test continuity between the two contacts on the microswitch when the button is pressed. If that is good and with everything hooked up test one more time from the edge connector to the connector on the switch itself. If you have a bad microswitch and no spares then hit me on pm, I have tons and will send u one on my dime.
 
Maybe a bad micro switch? Test continuity between the two contacts on the microswitch when the button is pressed. If that is good and with everything hooked up test one more time from the edge connector to the connector on the switch itself. If you have a bad microswitch and no spares then hit me on pm, I have tons and will send u one on my dime.

I appreciate it! However, I know its not the switch, as I have swapped that out to no avail. And I have continuity between it and where the disconnect is from the Control panel to the harness inside the cabinet, but not between that point and the edge connector.
 
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