Mortal kombat 2 arcade monitor issues... sigh.....

MKtrill

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hi all, i am new to this forum, and i have had the worst luck with monitors lately, it all started when i purchased my first arcade game A dedicated mortal kombat 2, i had it for 1 day working...... then the monitor went out the next..... for 2 months now Ive been searching high and low to find a replacement. Ive heard about p&l, 8liners, makvision, etc..... there HAS to be a way that i can find a monitor for less that 3 - 4 hundred dollars.... its a k7000 chassis, its got burnt diodes needs a flyback, yadda yadda.... the tube is in awful condition... screen burn, the whole works.... i have a buddy who has a couple possibilities for sale and lives relatively close to me, for example, a phillips 25 inch, with a recently repaired k7000 chassis, including flyback, diodes, the works..... before purchasing it, we hooked it up to an xmen, and the screen needed adjusting, once adjusted, i suggested we hook it to something closer to what it would getting hooked into, so we moved it to a mortal kombat 3 cabinet. instantly the fuses in the power supply blew on the cab.... once fixed the board had once again blown a couple diodes...... so it was a no go, at least for right now..... so we moved to another monitor, an rca 25 inch, with a makvision chassis... now to make an mk work, i would need an adapter for my..... whatever number of pins cable coming from my pcb.... i think a 9 or so..... it needed to be converted to a 5 pin. so we did that... we used a converter. when we plugged it up to the mk.. the sync was completely out of whack.... couldn't make the screen stop moving in a scrambled fashion. so we gave up... this is a chassis, that is tan in color, it has a pot adjuster board that must have 8 - 10 adjustment potentiometers on it, it has 2 x spots for the 4 cable 4 female red, yellow, green, blue connector to plug into. i dont know the name of it, but it is attached to the tube itself. my question FINALLY is this chassis seemed to work fine on a cabinet that was putting out 50 - 60 volts. my mk2 cab puts out atleast 110 - 120 volts... if i were to hook this up to mine.. what are the chances it would smoke up? what is my next step? is it really worth repairing an 18 year old k7000 chassis? am i destined to have to purchase a $339 before shipping makvision 24.8 inch..... if so, would that work on my mk 2 cabinet? would there be additional adjustments that must be made?

i am honestly open to ANY suggestions at this point..... all i want for christmas is for my Damn arcade to work...... as im sure im not alone with that wish this year..

Any help, advice, responses, tips, would be totally appreciated.

thank you
 
hi all, i am new to this forum, and i have had the worst luck with monitors lately, it all started when i purchased my first arcade game A dedicated mortal kombat 2, i had it for 1 day working...... then the monitor went out the next..... for 2 months now Ive been searching high and low to find a replacement. Ive heard about p&l, 8liners, makvision, etc..... there HAS to be a way that i can find a monitor for less that 3 - 4 hundred dollars.... its a k7000 chassis, its got burnt diodes needs a flyback, yadda yadda.... the tube is in awful condition... screen burn, the whole works.... i have a buddy who has a couple possibilities for sale and lives relatively close to me, for example, a phillips 25 inch, with a recently repaired k7000 chassis, including flyback, diodes, the works..... before purchasing it, we hooked it up to an xmen, and the screen needed adjusting, once adjusted, i suggested we hook it to something closer to what it would getting hooked into, so we moved it to a mortal kombat 3 cabinet. instantly the fuses in the power supply blew on the cab.... once fixed the board had once again blown a couple diodes...... so it was a no go, at least for right now..... so we moved to another monitor, an rca 25 inch, with a makvision chassis... now to make an mk work, i would need an adapter for my..... whatever number of pins cable coming from my pcb.... i think a 9 or so..... it needed to be converted to a 5 pin. so we did that... we used a converter. when we plugged it up to the mk.. the sync was completely out of whack.... couldn't make the screen stop moving in a scrambled fashion. so we gave up... this is a chassis, that is tan in color, it has a pot adjuster board that must have 8 - 10 adjustment potentiometers on it, it has 2 x spots for the 4 cable 4 female red, yellow, green, blue connector to plug into. i dont know the name of it, but it is attached to the tube itself. my question FINALLY is this chassis seemed to work fine on a cabinet that was putting out 50 - 60 volts. my mk2 cab puts out atleast 110 - 120 volts... if i were to hook this up to mine.. what are the chances it would smoke up? what is my next step? is it really worth repairing an 18 year old k7000 chassis? am i destined to have to purchase a $339 before shipping makvision 24.8 inch..... if so, would that work on my mk 2 cabinet? would there be additional adjustments that must be made?

i am honestly open to ANY suggestions at this point..... all i want for christmas is for my Damn arcade to work...... as im sure im not alone with that wish this year..

Any help, advice, responses, tips, would be totally appreciated.

thank you

It would help to post your location and maybe a member will have a nice one for sale near you or able to come over and help you figure something out
 
I'm a little confused on how you have a cabinet putting out 50 to 60 volts. Most monitors run off of 120 with the exception of some like the ones used in Nintendo cabs. Your MK2 cab should be fine to run most any raster scan monitor.
 
you just have problems here don't you?

I'm inclined to believe that MK3 came with one of the newer power blocks that Midway's cabs were shipped with that did not include an isolation transformer and that's what nuked the 2nd K7000.

personally I would repair that. it can't be that difficult to fix, there's people all the time that plug those into non-isolated power. lol

probably looking at about $50 to fix it, plus your time. it'll be an enlightening experience with monitor repairs. I had to fix a K7000 where the flyback went bad and put a huge hole in the deflection board. I had to make jumper traces out of diode wire. if I can make that work, you can make this work.

worst case is I think it blows the diodes, probably the flyback, HOT, C36 cap, and the voltage regulator. maybe ask around. and those are not difficult to replace.

you have an alternative with the 1st K7000 as well. still looking at flyback, HOT, C36, and VR4, but I did that through Bob Roberts for less than $40 if I recall. it's like an hour of your time.
 
YES That's definately the problem. No ISO in the cabinet. I had a similar "duh" moment with a Killer Instinct earlier this year.

Fix is repair the board or send it to somebody go get fixed, and splice in an ISO.

Here's another interesting thing, I had one up and running in the Killer Instinct... plugged into a wall outlet with no ground. Once I plugged it into an outlet WITH ground, I blew every fuse in the cabinet, blew the diodes on the monitor board, and smoked the video ground trace on the Killer Instinct PCB so bad I had to send it off to get fixed.
 
I'm a little confused on how you have a cabinet putting out 50 to 60 volts. Most monitors run off of 120 with the exception of some like the ones used in Nintendo cabs. Your MK2 cab should be fine to run most any raster scan monitor.

you only 50 - 60 vac when you take the measurement incorrectly

measuring AC to ground gives you roughly half the voltage.
 
YES That's definately the problem. No ISO in the cabinet. I had a similar "duh" moment with a Killer Instinct earlier this year.

Fix is repair the board or send it to somebody go get fixed, and splice in an ISO.

Here's another interesting thing, I had one up and running in the Killer Instinct... plugged into a wall outlet with no ground. Once I plugged it into an outlet WITH ground, I blew every fuse in the cabinet, blew the diodes on the monitor board, and smoked the video ground trace on the Killer Instinct PCB so bad I had to send it off to get fixed.

that's bizarre. KI came with an iso. I'm not sure how many of them shipped with K7000s, if they did at all, I only ever saw Polos in those.

one of my tech friends loaned me his K7000 when the Polo took a shit in my "MK" cab (converted War Gods) and we had a major brainfart moment when we plugged that in the cab and it went snap crackle pop. afterward he says "you see that label on the AC? it might be in 8 different languages but they all say the same thing: WARNING!" LOL

I've asked him a few times if he ever got around to fixing that, lol, still dead. I might see one of these days if he'll let me have it if I fix it. :p
 
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