More Hyperball Issues

Silverunicorn

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One step forward, 2 steps back. No, not the Paula Abdul song, my Hyperball :(

Huge thanks fo Todd (EagleTG) for coming over to assist witht he rebuilding of the power supply board. I can't thank him enough. He got the board cleaned up nicely, and we got it re-installed. This is where things went south.

Here's the fixed board:

5432907051_0181dc988f.jpg


First off, I know the left fuse is incorrect, one was blown and we put that in there temporarily for testing purposes.

But anyway, here's what happens now. With everything hooked up, when you turn the power switch on:

1) The auger runs continually
2) The "Energy Center" playfield flashers lock on
3) The Player 1 and Player 2 flashers lock on
4) Random lights on playfield stay lit

Here's 2 photos of the machine on and the lights that are locked on:

5433133017_a76d8c9ba0.jpg


5433133829_f67305d00b.jpg


What the hell???!!! NONE of this should have been effected by the fix we did on the power supply board. At least I don't think so.

I guess what I am unsure of really is if these problems existed previously, and the hacks to the board covered them up, or if something we did screwed up something else.

Anyone have this happen? I am sure EagleTG may have some things to add, just geting started with ideas as to what may have happened.

I don't really want to switch the boards with my Black Knight in case something on the board itself is the culprit, no sense damaging 2 machines :)

Thanks in advance!
Chris
 
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Unfortunately, I just don't know Hyperball that well to even try and assist. Are the flashers controlled via the solenoid circuits like most other games of the era are done?

No idea how that driver board is configured, only Hyperball uses it.

-hans
 
Actually, there is a chance that it may be related to the power supply, or the power supply wiring, as the GI relay on those is activated as a solenoid. Try pulling those GI light connectors off and see if the flashers turn off.

In the meantime, I'll peruse the wiring schematics and get aquainted with the system.

-Hans
 
Actually, there is a chance that it may be related to the power supply, or the power supply wiring, as the GI relay on those is activated as a solenoid. Try pulling those GI light connectors off and see if the flashers turn off.

In the meantime, I'll peruse the wiring schematics and get aquainted with the system.

-Hans

With the connectors removed, it yields the same result.

:( Thanks for the idea though.

Chris
 
Have you done all the recommended system 7 fixes?
One thing to try is to reseat the 40 pin connector between the driver and cpu boards. If this changes the behaviour at all then you need to redo both parts of the connector. It could also be a pia on the driver board.

cheers
/Tim
 
Have you done all the recommended system 7 fixes?
One thing to try is to reseat the 40 pin connector between the driver and cpu boards. If this changes the behaviour at all then you need to redo both parts of the connector. It could also be a pia on the driver board.

cheers
/Tim

We did seperate the boards and reconnect them with no change. Although he did note that they felt "wierd" but I am not really sure what he meant by that.

Chris
 
So, just to make sure I have it right..... Player 1 flasher, player 2 flasher, hyper flash, energy flash are all on. Plus the ball feed motor?

Displays dead too?

What are the LED's on the main CPU board doing when you power it up?

-Hans
 
Need more info here. Was the machine working 100% before the "fix"?

Almost every connector is keyed so all the connectors should be plugged in properly. Did you replace terminals and/or housings and not key them?

Remove all connectors from the power supply except the inputs (J1 and J2, the rectangular connectors) and test your output voltages.

What's the deal with the blown fuse? Blown before or after? Which fuse is it?

There is a good chance that one of your rectifiers is blown ( or one diode in the rectifier) causing this problem.

If I were you I would swap power supplies from black knight to hyperball. At least if there is a problem it should just blow a fuse on the good power supply (make sure all fuses are of correct value before attempting this!!)
 
just got me a hyperball all is working on the playfield.
cannot get the triggers to fire or the ball hopper to come on.
im not gonna add my crap in your thread and start my own for it...
is there a main hyperball thread with this in it?
just asking so i dont start repeat threads
 
For either poster, you may have heard this already here, but I just got one too, and the fuses installed were all of the wrong value, I actually blew fuses, I know you have checked this, but the fuse values were a little funky, as far as the shooter goes and ball lift, that little board may need headers resoldered...anyhow, OP let me know if you still need pics, my ps board has a funky repair to it but works great.. also look at quieting yers down like this guy...

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album07/Pinball/hyperball.htm
 
For either poster, you may have heard this already here, but I just got one too, and the fuses installed were all of the wrong value, I actually blew fuses, I know you have checked this, but the fuse values were a little funky, as far as the shooter goes and ball lift, that little board may need headers resoldered...anyhow, OP let me know if you still need pics, my ps board has a funky repair to it but works great.. also look at quieting yers down like this guy...

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album07/Pinball/hyperball.htm

thanks for the info...the ball lifter motor is not seized, so im guessing it would be the fuses values not being high enough as they are just not coming on at all...
 
just replaced all my fises to the proper value...they were all way to high(7a they had 10 a in!!!) now i dont get anything but a few playfield lights...
before i got everything but the ball lifter and shooter to come on....
the 8 pin cord on the power supply is really burnt up and still is getting hot with the new fuses in it?
do u think the power supply got roasted?
 
and ps they had a 10 or 20 amp fuse in the 3rd slot which is supposed to be empty
the connection still gets hot when turning on...
 
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