More G07 Issues.

I've seen it happen though. It would explain why it works on the bench tube but not on the cab tube...
 
i will check all around the yoke for bad wires.

if its bad does anyone have one i can buy?
 
I've been watching this thread all day and must admit i'm a bit disappointed in you monitor guys. The problem never was in the damn chassis to begin with, look at the picture. If there was a deflection issue, the line would have been thinner and it would have run from top to bottom on the tube. This has bad yoke written all over it so one of two things has happened, you either broke a winding wire when you took the yoke off or if your yoke plug was snapped into individual pins, you plugged them back onto the chassis in the wrong order and blew your yoke.
 
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one of the wires is broken on one of the winded areas. guess thats enough to kill it?

you could have saved me some head trauma if you would have spoken up... ha ha

what should i do?
 
i put a jumper wire on it and tested it. it jumped up to 55
would i be safe soldering a jumper in for now? the wire is pretty seperate from the others so it wont touch.
 
chris25810 said:
I've been watching this thread all day and must admit i'm a bit disappointed in you monitor guys. The problem never was in the damn chassis to begin with, look at the picture. If there was a deflection issue, the line would have been thinner and it would have run from top to bottom on the tube. This has blown yoke written all over it
Click to expand...

Surprised that someone who has fixed as many monitor chassis as you have has never run into a chassis that looked like this from a combination of issues. Just about every "bad yoke" symptom can be replicated by a chassis issue.

I initially suspected the yoke also, especially since he said it worked fine on the bench, but decided to give advice based on most-common to least-common, and FR401 is more likely than a bad yoke...
 
modessitt said:
Surprised that someone who has fixed as many monitor chassis as you have has never run into a chassis that looked like this from a combination of issues. Just about every "bad yoke" symptom can be replicated by a chassis issue.

I initially suspected the yoke also, especially since he said it worked fine on the bench, but decided to give advice based on most-common to least-common, and FR401 is more likely than a bad yoke...
Click to expand...

it wasnt until the yoke word came up that he "knew it all along" ;-D

ha ha jk

i just read that whoooole thread Mod, AMAZING. Its where i stole the idea! ha ha
 
It was actually you're very first post that shows the tube.

It is fairly rare to have a bad yoke on a GO7 but i have seen enough of them to know what kind of image it displays. A broken wire gives the look you have and a blown/shorted one typically displays a diamond shape pattern and some funky ass colors
 
chris25810 said:
I've been watching this thread all day and must admit i'm a bit disappointed in you monitor guys. The problem never was in the damn chassis to begin with, look at the picture. If there was a deflection issue, the line would have been thinner and it would have run from top to bottom on the tube.
Click to expand...

Huh? How, electrically, is a cracked solder joint at the yoke plug and a yoke with an open winding different? The circuit is not complete, and the deflection transistors will be sitting there driving nothing in both cases. The symptoms will be identical.

The line may look thicker than you think it should - but the position of the yoke on the tube, the lack of convergence (since he removed the yoke), and the setting of the focus and screen controls will all affect exactly how the line looks.

-Ian
 
RetroHacker said:
Huh? How, electrically, is a cracked solder joint at the yoke plug and a yoke with an open winding different? The circuit is not complete, and the deflection transistors will be sitting there driving nothing in both cases. The symptoms will be identical.

The line may look thicker than you think it should - but the position of the yoke on the tube, the lack of convergence (since he removed the yoke), and the setting of the focus and screen controls will all affect exactly how the line looks.

-Ian
Click to expand...


Not arguing your point Ian but when sometime when you're bored try duplicating what his picture shows by eliminating components in the deflection section of this chassis and see what you come up with. A bad FR401, deflection transistors or other components in this area of the board do not produce the image he's showing. It doesn't matter if the yoke is twisted, crooked, focus pot out of whack etc. you will always get a uniform line from top to bottom or left to right. If it's out of focus, the line is thicker but it's still consistent.
 
chris25810 said:
I've been watching this thread all day and must admit i'm a bit disappointed in you monitor guys. The problem never was in the damn chassis to begin with, look at the picture.
Click to expand...

Trust me - the problem wasn't just the yoke, it was also with the monitor. I got it with both fuses blown, the VR and horizontal output transistor blown, open resistor (I forget which) and a ton of bad solder.

Once I sorted that, it had a perfect picture. But I couldn't identify a yoke issue until once he had it back on his end.
 
The yoke may be open or may be shorted. Likely in this case it is a short in the yoke, corruption. Perhaps he has current running through the winding until it hits the short part of the yoke giving out an extremely low magnetic drive. Hence the slight teardrop looks from the edges to center. Sounds like a good idea to explore the possible outcomes for yoke scenarios. I have a large screen yoke with clearly cut varnished open wires. 3 to be exact. However it still works full deflection with those opens. Seems there are multiple coils in yokes. Some for correction I assume in my case.
 
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Trioxin said:
it wasnt until the yoke word came up that he "knew it all along" ;-D

ha ha jk

i just read that whoooole thread Mod, AMAZING. Its where i stole the idea! ha ha
Click to expand...

Chris25810 knew what it was all along, as he has been the KLOV "Monitor Bitch" for a couple of years. Chris set a world record for most G07 repairs in a year, then quit repairing monitors. He found that it was much more gratifying to destroy helpless Asteroids machines and part them out instead of repairing monitors.:cool:

Who loves ya Chris?:D
 
A jumper wire on the broken yoke wire worked perfect.

installed that and she fired right up. works like a charm.

Thanks Peale for the awesome work!
Gonna send you some positive feedback as soon as i wake up in the morning...just got back
from the movies.

Also thanks everyone for helping me along on my little problem.

I'll post a pic in the morning also.
 
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