That is likely the dag gnd strap. Connects metal spring thingy that touches dag coating on crt and gnd on neck board. It should be attached. It is often cut to remove e chassis from monitor without desoldering from. Neck board.
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Okay I definitely have them connected and spliced.That is likely the dag gnd strap. Connects metal spring thingy that touches dag coating on crt and gnd on neck board. It should be attached. It is often cut to remove e chassis from monitor without desoldering from. Neck board.
Oh okay no, interesting, you say you disconnected FG entirely on switcher in that Pac cab from that thread a decade ago and had zero problems.Can you take a picture of the entire back inside cabinet? Williams games usually have a piece of silver gnd braid connected to one of the rear corners of the monitor frame.
Also try unplugging marquee light before we go too far down this rabbit hole.
yes i have axials made 105c every year since 2016 and just got an order in last month so always new stock and way more values then anyone else has ever carried including mouser/digikey. if there is a value i don't have you let me know and i will get it if its needed....I don't know if anyone is making axial replacements for those or if we're relegated to doing clumsy jumper wires like Bob Roberts again now that GPE is gone. one of the benefits to me not fixing those games anymore is I don't have to necessarily concern myself with this that much. lol
Such is very true…I did eliminate the need entirely on my Robotron and also put in a lithium battery, hasn't failed me thus far…what I noticed upon further inspection in all this was that it looked like someone had already done just this on the switcher by cutting coin door wires on the IDC at the 6 pin and put them on -5v and GND. I had done something similar on my SEGA Turbo.you don't need the linear power supply at all if you're using a switching mode power supply. you just need to port the yellow wires from the coin door plug of the old power supply to +/-5V (prefer -5V) and ground to restore the GI lamp connections and the black-orange coin door ground wire to ground to make the test panel and coin switches work again. you'll have issues with the CMOS corrupting using a switcher however.
the linear power supply overhaul is a fairly simple procedure and will gain you some experience soldering and the game will appreciate it too
Yeah earlier in the thread I fixed the slight horizontal collapse across the top with H Hold adjustment.has anyone suggested adjusting H. Hold? cause that's what that usually is
a) that's not horizontal collapse (you can call it wave or curl) b) if the monitor hasn't been serviced then it will need itYeah earlier in the thread I fixed the slight horizontal collapse across the top with H Hold adjustment.
The fast, oscillating pulse through the raster scan still persisted. I suppose it can't hurt to turn the pot as far as it can go to see where I end up on that.
Good to know, thanks.a) that's not horizontal collapse (you can call it wave or curl) b) if the monitor hasn't been serviced then it will need it.
That I certainly haven't done. That's good intel.Have you hooked up a different monitor to the moon patrol? When I built my moon patrol cabaret, I went through three different 13"monitors before I found one that didn't give me geometry, sync or ripple issues. Though 4900s are usually what's found in Williams games, K 7000s work just fine.
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