Monitor Troubles

endrien

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So I just got a tekken 3 cab and it works/looks fine except the picture is a bit curved in and it spazzes out sometimes. Please don't tell me Its a cap kit, that would be a pain in the ass.

Bent:

294nifr.jpg



Spazz:

22ccqf.jpg



so9vuo.jpg
 
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What type of monitor is in it. It looks like a pincushion problem. If it is a 27" Wells there is usually a little pincushion board that has two pots on it. If you adjust those you should be able to get it square.

And you may aswell do a cap kit just for fun.
 
On the back of the monior it says:
G-A68ACT00X

There are some knobs with vhold,hhold,vpos, etc but they didn't fix any of the problems.
 
You really need to install a cap kit in order to have a good baseline, ignoring that is like trying to find out why you car has no power but refusing to do a tune-up...

Anyway, I can't tell from the pic what chassis you have. Can you take a closer pic of the monitor chassis board?
 
You really need to install a cap kit in order to have a good baseline, ignoring that is like trying to find out why you car has no power but refusing to do a tune-up...

Anyway, I can't tell from the pic what chassis you have. Can you take a closer pic of the monitor chassis board?

I can tomorrow, its a bit late. I'd get a cap kit but I'm unsure if that will even fix the problem or what cap kit I need/where to get it.
 
Once you know the monitor chassis then troubleshooting can begin. IDing the chassis is the first step on the page Ken directed you to...
 
That's an early Kortek chassis. You see those little yellow tranformers on the board? On of those is your pincushion transformer. You probably have some fading caps or cold solder in the area around it. Not sure which it is, so check them all.

And I'm assuming you've already checked all your pots to make sure one isn't a pincushion adjustment, right?
 
That's an early Kortek chassis. You see those little yellow tranformers on the board? On of those is your pincushion transformer. You probably have some fading caps or cold solder in the area around it. Not sure which it is, so check them all.

And I'm assuming you've already checked all your pots to make sure one isn't a pincushion adjustment, right?

I'm pretty new to the arcade scene so I don't really know what "Pots" are...., I'm guessing there the tiny white knobs that effect v/h hold, position etc(if so yes I've messed around with them, it didn't fix it)? If its cold solder I could just reflow some solder to all the points correct?
 
I'm pretty new to the arcade scene so I don't really know what "Pots" are...., I'm guessing there the tiny white knobs that effect v/h hold, position etc(if so yes I've messed around with them, it didn't fix it)? If its cold solder I could just reflow some solder to all the points correct?
Pot: abbreviation for "Potentiometer". Yes, those are the tiny white knobs that fine tune your picture.

Generally, the preferred method for fixing suspect cold solder is to desolder, clean the area with alcohol, and then flow new solder into the joint. Simply adding new solder can make things worse, and simple reflowing/reheating doesn't always fix the problem either.
 
Is there any guide for making your own "high voltage probe"(Screw driver with the grounding clip). I watched the how to discharge a monitor video but Dont really know how to properly make a probe. Also is a monitor the only thing I need to worry about touching while its unplugged(Like does the transformer hold a charge as well?
 
Is there any guide for making your own "high voltage probe"(Screw driver with the grounding clip).
What you're describing is a monitor discharging tool. This is very much different than a high voltage probe.

Bob Roberts sells discharging tools if you're not the handy type. You could use the detailed instructions on his site to fashion your own if you were so inclined. If you're able to drill a hole in a hardened steel screwdriver, more power to you. But for mine, I took a grinder to a 1 inch section, attached a large alligator clip and held it on with electrical tape.

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/sb.html

Although some transformer assemblies have large filter caps on them (Midway, Atari), they are generally bled off when the game is powered down, assuming everything in your cabinet is properly wired and grounded.

Link to thread about 'Big Blue' cap found in Atari power supplies.
 
Yes, the metal frame is connected to ground. Assuming your monitor has a ground braid and is properly wired.

The only thing you should worry about touching is the anode hole underneath the rubber cup. And even at that, discharging that is no big deal.
 
Well, is my monitor self discharging or something? I clearly(Very visibly)touched the screw driver off of the metal prongs under the anode cap but I didn't hear any pop. I made sure I touched it.
Edit: I guess it is, or it just didn't make noise. Because I removed the anode cap fine and I'm not dead haha.
 
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Nope, no such thing as a self-discharging monitor that I know of. No need for it really, it's the tube that holds a static charge as it's essentially a big capacitor.

Sometimes you get a pop, sometimes you don't. The static charge starts to deteriorate on it's own as soon as you power down, so the longer you wait the less likely you are to hear a static pop.

And honestly I think it's an old wives tale that you can be killed from the static charge from discharging a monitor. I've read many posts about guys getting poked from it, but they all lived to tell the tale. Never heard of a single person being killed from it...
 
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