Monitor mount damaged, Repairable?

YeehawMcKickass

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I have a Midway cabinet with 25" monitor (U2000 chassis) currently mounted into it. During a move, the upper left mount tab that that connects to the chassis frame broke at the bend in the tab.


From what I can tell, when this part snapped, another part popped off. I'm honestly not even sure what the part is. It's a black box that connects to the anode and appears to ground to the uncovered cable that wraps around the outside of the tube (I've forgotten what the name of this is, but know it's important). Identification and function for the part would be neat to have, as I haven't seen this before.



That black box seems pretty trivial to deal with. It looks like the ground wire was just soldered on to the cabling and the box needs to be mounted somewhere in the cabinet. The real issue here is the busted mount tab. I'm not even sure if it's fixable within a decent amount of cash (that being around the cost of replacing with an LCD monitor, around $200). Any thoughts on fixing that tab?
 
You'll have less trouble swapping the tube. See if you can find a 25" TV for free near you. The chances of you finding a compatible tube are pretty good.
 
One broken tube mounting ear isn't tragic. Two words: JB Weld.

And the monitor will function fine with one broken tab, just make sure the other three are tight, and that the dag ground is still making good contact. You can always install some kind of kludge (block of wood, etc) to brace and support that corner of the tube.

The "block" needs to be reconnected and mounted as well, but that's easy.

-Ian
 
Also, looking again at the pictures, note the little "loop" in the tension band near the broken off tab. I'm thinking some baling wire or a couple heavy duty zip ties between that and the frame rail above might help support it too...

-Ian
 
Also, looking again at the pictures, note the little "loop" in the tension band near the broken off tab. I'm thinking some baling wire or a couple heavy duty zip ties between that and the frame rail above might help support it too...

-Ian

Now you are sounding like an old Op. ;) LOL
 
One broken tube mounting ear isn't tragic. Two words: JB Weld.

And the monitor will function fine with one broken tab, just make sure the other three are tight, and that the dag ground is still making good contact. You can always install some kind of kludge (block of wood, etc) to brace and support that corner of the tube.

The "block" needs to be reconnected and mounted as well, but that's easy.

-Ian

I'm willing to give this a shot, but I have some reservations about it.

I move my machines a lot. Not just moving them around home for a new arrangement, but I take them out for temporary locations around six times a year. Which means they're constantly getting jostled, bumped, shaken, and tilted.

If you know that the JB Weld + extra support solution holds up to regular transit, I'm game.
 
No way. Tube swap time.

How so? I don't see why it won't hold. It's a picture tube, not a major structural component of a suspension bridge. I see no reason why this can't be fixed.

Try the JB Weld. Fashion a new right-angled bracket from some scrap metal (so you have the flat surfaces to bond - don't just use the stub of the old one, it's not big enough) and glue it on. Or, use the stub, but fashion a little right angle reinforcement to glue to the inside. Once it cures, bolt the tube back into the frame. And use some baling wire through the loop and extra secure it to the frame rail.

It costs almost nothing to try, and the absolute worst thing that could happen is that it breaks and you're right back where you are now.

Don't underestimate the awesome power that is JB Weld.

-Ian
 
I had the same thing happen in a KI2 cab I got.. I swapped the tube. Never thought about JB weld. I still have the tube in a box somewhere. I will have to give it a try As the pic on it was very good...
 
surprised no one said anything... but the black box is like a bleeder box, you find them on the U5000 too (albeit I've only seen those in white) ... it automatically discharges the tube. I have a pair of U5000s, one with and one without that box, the one without produces a nice crackle and spark when you discharge it, the one with the box... nothing. lol the K7000s I've worked with incidentally have some kind of self-discharge to them too, I just don't know how they do it though.

not entirely sure why it exists though. back when those monitors were produced I highly doubt the hobby was as huge as it is now with as many non-tech types dicking around with monitors.
 
Someone told me the black box was an add on for gun games. Something to do with the screen flashing when you fired the gun. I am sure someone here will know the answer..
 
I don't like the idea of using JB Weld. Getting it welded properly would be a good idea, otherwise I'd just use the 3 remaining mounts, I am sure it will be secure enough.
 
I don't like the idea of using JB Weld. Getting it welded properly would be a good idea, otherwise I'd just use the 3 remaining mounts, I am sure it will be secure enough.

You don't like the idea of JB Weld, but you like the idea of using a *welding torch* on a picture tube implosion protection band?!?! You do realize that's a horrible idea, right? If the tube doesn't implode, the heat would warp the shadow mask.

Come on, if JB Weld can hold an engine block together, I think it can stick a little tab onto a metal band. The tube weighs what, 25 pounds?

-Ian
 
I think he meant .. remove the tube and chasis from the frame and then weld it.
 
You can't weld that ear back on without damaging the tube's phosphor mask. The ear is held on by the implosion band.

I've been down this road before. I pulled a tube out of a 19" TV that I wanted to swap into a G07. I was all gung ho to get her done until I realized that the tube's ears were mounted forward instead of backwards. It would have made my monitor's neck stick out too far and the back door wouldn't close.

For a brief moment I considered trying to find a way to reverse the ears. But there really isn't any way to loosen/remove the implosion strap. It's a one time installation, and it's not meant to be removed. I ended up scrapping that attempt, and waiting until I found a tube with correctly mounted tabs.

I seriously cannot believe this conversation is still going on. By this time I would have already been there and back from the local Habitat for Humanity Restore with a 25" TV, swapped tubes, and re-donated my broken tube again. Done.
 
At this point I'm going to be going the tube swap route. I haven't had time in the last couple days to hit up the area goodwill/pawn shops and 25's on the local craiglist have been disappearing before I can respond to the ads.

I also have plan b of just putting an Evo monitor in, but I'd prefer to use that as a last resort.
 
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You don't like the idea of JB Weld, but you like the idea of using a *welding torch* on a picture tube implosion protection band?!?! You do realize that's a horrible idea, right? If the tube doesn't implode, the heat would warp the shadow mask.
I wasn't suggesting a welding torch, I'm quite sure that a professional welder could MIG weld the tab back on without any damage to the tube.

RetroHacker said:
Come on, if JB Weld can hold an engine block together, I think it can stick a little tab onto a metal band. The tube weighs what, 25 pounds?
It probably can, but it's a dodgy repair. Would you really be happy if you took your car to a mechanic and they repaired the engine with some JB?
 
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