Monitor Mitsubishi- wave runner

vic1

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Hi, someone know where can I, find tech manual for repair the PTV in my Sega Wave Runner,? thanks for any help you can give me.
 
dude.. im sorry to say that there is not much documentation on these monitors.. fyi sega used 3 or 4 different manufactures for these damn things too..

Your only real option is to beg a local tv repair shop to work on it.

Me personally, i got real lucky and found another monitor from another parted out game(top skater) that just happened to be the same brand and model as my dead monitor.. in my case(star wars) i wanted to save that sweet sw art so i gutted the top skater monitor and installed the guts into my sw monitors "box". It took me about 6 hours to get it converged and dialed in properly but was worth the effort in the end.


does your do anything?????


just about any sega-use 50" projection monitor should work, outside they are all made to the same spec but liek i said just watch out if you buy parts as there were diff manufacturers.
 
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What's the model of rear projection, and what's the problem w/ it? I fixed mine when I had it, and I've fixed a couple other rear projections, but yeah... the documentation is pretty limited.

DogP
 
not to derail like a poo face, but on my 50" Wave Runner, the remote control won't work on it. I put batteries in it and it wouldn't adjust at all, it was still in the plastic wrap and everything. lol

is there like a particular spot that you have to point it?

I too have projection screen problems, on my Top Skater. I think one of the convergence chips went bad on it. what's your monitor doing? I think the Mitubishi monitors can auto-converge, or maybe that was the Toshiba ones. my Top Skater's got a Hitachi, and that thing is next to impossible to work. lol
 
You should just point the remote at the screen... the sensor is usually inside.

I've had the STK ICs go bad which cause convergence problems, although my Waverunner monitor was actually dead because of a large resistor (0.18 ohms I think) on the convergence board being open. I misread it, replaced it with a 1.8 ohm, and I got bad convergence, then realized it was supposed to be 0.18, and everything was fine.

Here were my threads:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....subishi+Rear+Projection+Help#0830d2265f2691d7
and
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....=Toshiba+Rear+Projection+Pat#946dec675bae10ea

Oh, and reading back through my thread, I see my remote didn't work either :p.

That group is a great place for information as well.

DogP
 
You should just point the remote at the screen... the sensor is usually inside.

I've had the STK ICs go bad which cause convergence problems, although my Waverunner monitor was actually dead because of a large resistor (0.18 ohms I think) on the convergence board being open. I misread it, replaced it with a 1.8 ohm, and I got bad convergence, then realized it was supposed to be 0.18, and everything was fine.

Here were my threads:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....subishi+Rear+Projection+Help#0830d2265f2691d7
and
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....=Toshiba+Rear+Projection+Pat#946dec675bae10ea

Oh, and reading back through my thread, I see my remote didn't work either :p.

That group is a great place for information as well.

DogP

awesome. I didn't dig into the machine yet, it's in a place that's closed for winter so I've had it sitting on the backburner while I get caught up at the place that is still open. I'm getting there.

are those ICs easy to find on Mouser? I've heard conflicting reports about fixing these things, I'm hoping it's just something stupid like there being no documentation, and not a lack of parts out there. :cool:

speaking of ICs, can you just run sockets on those, or is that something that should be hardwired into the board?
 
I'm not sure whether Mouser has the ICs, but I know MCM has always had the ones I've needed. You just gotta be careful, I always hear people talk about bootleg or no-name branded ones basically being junk, where they either don't work to begin with, or fail after just a few minutes. I think I got one of them before... I had an older RPTV with a convergence problem, I replaced the IC with a cheap one, it looked good for a few minutes, then went out of convergence again after a few more minutes.

I don't think I would socket it though, I believe there's quite a bit of current running though those pins. When replacing them, for some reason they seem tougher to desolder than a standard chip, and the traces seem to lift easily, so just be extra cautious.

DogP
 
I'm not sure whether Mouser has the ICs, but I know MCM has always had the ones I've needed. You just gotta be careful, I always hear people talk about bootleg or no-name branded ones basically being junk, where they either don't work to begin with, or fail after just a few minutes. I think I got one of them before... I had an older RPTV with a convergence problem, I replaced the IC with a cheap one, it looked good for a few minutes, then went out of convergence again after a few more minutes.

I don't think I would socket it though, I believe there's quite a bit of current running though those pins. When replacing them, for some reason they seem tougher to desolder than a standard chip, and the traces seem to lift easily, so just be extra cautious.

DogP

a lot use the lead free solder and are a bitch to work with , also have seen a lot of convergence IC's not on heat syncs, if yours is like this , consider adding in syncs, heat is what kills these
 
I'm not sure whether Mouser has the ICs, but I know MCM has always had the ones I've needed. You just gotta be careful, I always hear people talk about bootleg or no-name branded ones basically being junk, where they either don't work to begin with, or fail after just a few minutes. I think I got one of them before... I had an older RPTV with a convergence problem, I replaced the IC with a cheap one, it looked good for a few minutes, then went out of convergence again after a few more minutes.

I don't think I would socket it though, I believe there's quite a bit of current running though those pins. When replacing them, for some reason they seem tougher to desolder than a standard chip, and the traces seem to lift easily, so just be extra cautious.

DogP

yeah, I figured with the sockets. I haven't even opened it up yet though, I took the screen apart and cleaned inside and cleaned the projectors. the picture looked totally different, except the green convergence is all screwed. it just happened one day. I imagine all the dirt inside won't help either, people we bought the game from didn't do any of that stuff.
 
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