Monitor Missing Blue Color

That's not good-
Dig around the schematics and see if that pin on the tube is actually used.
You may have some luck pulling the plastic protector away from the glass tube and attaching a wire or something to any bit of the pin remaining in the tube. You could route it around and connect it to the other side of the connector or something. You might even be able to rig it up where it connects through the connector again, but it would be fragile.

Make sure the pin is necessary first.

Oh- and you're adjusting the POTS (potentiometers), not the PODS.
And the metal finned pieces that help cool the transistors are heat SINKS, not SYNCHS.

K
 
I read this http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=85640.msg898346#msg898346

and basically had the same issue long story short i re-flowed all the solder on the neck board and plug it all back in but nothing seemed to change. then i took it out one more time to further inspection when i came to find this...

Looks like one of the pins from the tube has broken off in the neck board... is this thing fubar? i was gonna do a cap kit but now im kind of discouraged...

Well, maybe. What you can do is get a pick and try to get that pin out of the socket. Then use a razor blade to cut through the glue around the neck pin plastic, and try to pull that white plastic piece off the pins. See if you have a little bit of pin still sticking out of the tube. If so, you can solder the broken piece to the little bit sticking out. Then you can try sliding the white plastic back on, or just put your neckboard back on without it.

If there is nothing sticking out of the tube that you can attach the pin to, then I'm afraid it is FUBAR...
 
Well, maybe. What you can do is get a pick and try to get that pin out of the socket. Then use a razor blade to cut through the glue around the neck pin plastic, and try to pull that white plastic piece off the pins. See if you have a little bit of pin still sticking out of the tube. If so, you can solder the broken piece to the little bit sticking out. Then you can try sliding the white plastic back on, or just put your neckboard back on without it.

If there is nothing sticking out of the tube that you can attach the pin to, then I'm afraid it is FUBAR...

should i discharge the monitor before i take the plastic piece off the neck?
 
should i discharge the monitor before i take the plastic piece off the neck?

Yes. If you accidentally crack the neck when doing so (or if it
already has a crack from the pin breaking off), it will discharge through that crack...
 
Isn't there a solder paste that delays the solidification of the solder a bit? If so, couldn't you butter the end of that pin and put it back into place into the plastic housing - hopefully making connection with the piece on the tube? Hold it in place until the solder solidifies all the way.

I have no idea if it would work but you have limited options and I don't think removing the white plastic piece is among them.



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I have no idea if it would work but you have limited options and I don't think removing the white plastic piece is among them.

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I have successfully reattached a broken focus pin in the manner which I described. It worked great once I was done.

But I've also had them break off flush with the glass neck, and no way to repair...
 
Well i have never heard of a "paste" or anything like that to keep solder from solidifying plus i dont know how much id like to posibly melt the plastic around the tube if i accidently touch the plastic with the solder, eather way it sound risky operation. but how likely is it that my problem (lack of blue in the monitor) is being caused by this pin missing?
 
Look to see if the neckboard (either side) is labeled for that pin # or if it has any lettering next to any of the pin sockets. Bk is usually used for the blue drive. Otherwise, we look at the schematics to determine what that pin is for...

Also, you can trace that socket back to the drive transistor, and from there to a color pot...
 
OK... so i got that piece out of there, i just ended up desoldering that one plastic piece and pulling it out the back... (maybe it was over kill to desolder the thing but i didnt want to mess up the plastic piece). here are a few pics...

The PCB
IMG_3763.jpg


IMG_3764.jpg


IMG_3765.jpg


after i removed it.
IMG_3766.jpg


Heres the culprit is it supposed to be all like... burned its a bunch of colors like blue and orange and yellow
IMG_3768.jpg
 
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ugh... i think i broke that pin out... unless its supposed to look like that...
IMG_3769.jpg


IMG_3770.jpg


IMG_3772.jpg


IMG_3774.jpg


IMG_3775.jpg


the top one is the one that is missing... that bottom one just stayed with that plastic piece... : ( i think its actually fubar now...
 
19" monitor? if so , a lot of the old wood grain tv's from the 80's are a great source for burn free donors , they can usually be had at thrift stores for next to nothing , I am afraid that tube is fucked. if they have several tv's there , get a few , it may take looking at a couple to find the right neck pin pattern , then you have to swap the yoke over to the donor from the busted tube , but we can cross that bridge when the time comes
 
its a 25 inch u2000 from a KI machine im checking craigslist right now for a replacement 25 inch tv, i didnt think that you could just swap tubes like that...
 
so i put this thing back together and it still works... o_O
still no blue though however, it does still work... my head hurts... : (
 
I saw that you asked the seller if it'll fit, and he said all 25" tubes have the same pinout.

Though this is incorrect, quite likely it is the right tube as the MAJORITY fall in this realm.

A tube number would be helpful.
 
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