Monitor Issue

playpin35

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Just got a zombie raid that plays blind. I haven't had time to find the chassis model yet, however it has a WG sticker and resembles a K7000 chassis(bob roberts ID page). When powered up, you see a quick flash on the screen, you can hear the static pop, and the neck glows. Adjusting brightness/black level does nothing. The game coins up and plays(as far as I can tell). Where would be a good place to start?
 
do you have a raster. turn up the fly and see if you get scan lines

check the solder on the header pins.
check the 3 big resisters on the neck board for cold solder joints.

if its a k7000 do the cap kit and re-flow all the trouble areas.
and if it has the wite nob fly change it before you have more troubles.

Peace
Buffett
 
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check all the traces on the fly pins make sure they aren't cracked and do the cap kit and re-flow the chassis so you can start fresh. check the neck for cracks and cold solder as well.

Peace
Buffett
 
Umm, first why don't you make sure that the board is outputting video?.

Because it doesn't matter? Even if there was no board in the game, you can get a raster with retrace lines by cranking up the screen control.

Sounds like it's in HV shutdown. You need to figure out why... Check the B+.

-Ian
 
Oops, missed post #3. Boy is my face red.

Because it doesn't matter? Even if there was no board in the game, you can get a raster with retrace lines by cranking up the screen control.

Sounds like it's in HV shutdown. You need to figure out why... Check the B+.

-Ian
 
I went over all of the solder joints at the connectors, resistors and flyback, nothing changed. Haven't checked the B+ yet, but I did notice the cap top at C57 appeared to have slight bulging. I will get back to it in a day or two and try to get a cap kit on the way. I did try a different known working jamma board in the cabinet and it had no video as well.
 
a cap kit will fix it, if some of the caps are shorted. i have repaired several that that was the case.

if C23 or C57 is shorted it will be in HV shut down. and the fuse doesn't blow.

i would cap it re-flow all the trouble ares VR, H.O.T., header pins and all the big resisters and then see what happens.

after that measure the B+ and see if you are back in business.

Peace
Buffett
 
a cap kit will fix it, if some of the caps are shorted. i have repaired several that that was the case.

if C23 or C57 is shorted it will be in HV shut down. and the fuse doesn't blow.

i would cap it re-flow all the trouble ares VR, H.O.T., header pins and all the big resisters and then see what happens.

after that measure the B+ and see if you are back in business.

Peace
Buffett

This isn't a pissing contest, but sadly you are flat out wrong. Anytime you pump 130+vac into a K7000 it will go into HV shutdown period. It doesn't make any difference what caps you have in it.

Want to verify the problem? Hook the monitor up to a good iso putting out 120vac, or hell even 100vac and the monitor will come up.
 
This isn't a pissing contest, but sadly you are flat out wrong. Anytime you pump 130+vac into a K7000 it will go into HV shutdown period. It doesn't make any difference what caps you have in it.

I don't see where he says his isolation transformer is putting out more than 130vAC. Which thread did you read that in?

I see him posting that his B+ voltage is 130.7v, however, and last time I checked, that's the proper B+ voltage for a 25" K7000. I assume that is the type of monitor we're talking about (Zombie Raid is a 25" game).

In any event... if the B+ really is 130v, the it's not in shutdown - if it was in shutdown the B+ would be a lot higher.

-Ian
 
You said you adjusted the brightness/black level --- did you turn up the screen control on the flyback?

Don't bother with the brightness control on the remote board, that's the fine brightness control - turn up the screen knob on the flyback. That's the course brightness.

Have you tested the game with a known working monitor? I'd like to rule out your game board as the issue.
 
I don't see where he says his isolation transformer is putting out more than 130vAC. Which thread did you read that in?

I see him posting that his B+ voltage is 130.7v, however, and last time I checked, that's the proper B+ voltage for a 25" K7000. I assume that is the type of monitor we're talking about (Zombie Raid is a 25" game).

In any event... if the B+ really is 130v, the it's not in shutdown - if it was in shutdown the B+ would be a lot higher.

-Ian

thank you RetroHacker.

that's where i based my statement from. if it is his input voltage yes you correct and will edit my post. but until playpin35 clarifys it i am correct as i have personally seen it happen.

hope he has resolved his issue and has got his game up and running.

Peace
Buffett
 
I don't see where he says his isolation transformer is putting out more than 130vAC. Which thread did you read that in?

I see him posting that his B+ voltage is 130.7v, however, and last time I checked, that's the proper B+ voltage for a 25" K7000. I assume that is the type of monitor we're talking about (Zombie Raid is a 25" game).

In any event... if the B+ really is 130v, the it's not in shutdown - if it was in shutdown the B+ would be a lot higher.

-Ian

My bad Ian, thought he said his input was 130.7. Just read it again and he did say B+. Input of 130+ would make the B+ way higher and cause HV shutdown.

Playpin - Input of 123 should be just fine.

Buffet - Not trying to offend anyone, but a cap kit doesn't fix all that ails a monitor. Sure it is cheap, but troubleshooting the problem is free.
 
Verify R57 is not open, as this will also cause your exact problem. Also just had a 25" K7191 that had your symptoms that turned out to be shorted color guns. The cure was a simple tube rejuv.
 
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your rite advice is free. :)
i am just trying to help get him going. i have learned a great many things here to be able to fix my games. so if i am wrong i will admit it. just don't like to be swept under the rug so quickly when trying to make an observation. and give a possible solution.

i know they don't i have had many K7000's not be fixed by a cap kit.
it just gives you a fresh approach. that's all.:)

any up date on this now, that you have several things to check.

Peace
Buffett
 
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