monitor image is really big and wont show health bar

SpecillK

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monitor image is really big and wont show health bar

i have ''The Grid'' by Midway Games and the cab is in excellent shape. the inside parts and jamma look like the game was just shipped out from midway in 1999. everything is really clean and brand new looking. my problem lies in the screen, the image is too big so that the health bar and top of the numbers and clock are above the screen and cannot be seen. my remote control board is missing the H-Hold Pot and i cant get the V-Pos down enough to fix the image. i always have to make the image to big just to fill the screen, because when i adjust the V-Pos i get it low enough but theres a big black bar on bottom and a small one on top. im wondering if the H-hold pot thats missing would help but i dont see how it would. the Remote Board is a P790 and i tried chad at thearcadecup.com and he said he had no replacements :( any suggestions on how to get my image normal? please any help is greatly appreciated, this community is great and even though i havent been here long i think you guys are superb.

sorry the image sucks
 

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Adjust the vertical size (vertical height, depending on monitor type) until it fits the screen and then adjust the vertical position. If these adjustments still leave the pic too high then there should be vertical shift jumpers on the chassis somewhere.
 
i did adjust the height and v pos, my v pos doesnt go low enough to center the image and then height it to fit screen. i get a 2 inch black bar at the bottom. what do vertical jumpers look like and is there anything i can turn on the chasis to get it down? thanks a heep again
 
The jumpers look different on every chassis. Do you know what type of monitor you have?

On most Wells Gardner chassis the jumper is a yellow wire with an insulated connector on one end.
 
yeah i have a couple yellow wires one has a connector i think, could the H hold pot be the problem do u think? oh yeah my monitor back says
Phillips A63AFW36X R25GNGN 9301-763-20443 E31254 LR22773
 
The H hold pot stabilizes the pic. Look on the chassis and you'll likely see a pot there that is labeled as H hold. I don't think this is your problem.


Those numbers you posted are for the tube, not the chassis. Look here and compare what you have to what you see. I'd guess you either have a K7000 or a U2000, so start there first...

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
 
looks like i have a u2000 just by seeing the remote control board and the chasis, it looks just about the same, given its at a different viewing angle
 
looks like i have a u2000 just by seeing the remote control board and the chasis, it looks just about the same, given its at a different viewing angle


OK, can you see a white label on the edge of the main monitor circuit board with any numbers on it? If so can you list those numbers? Also, the same main board should have a screen printed lable near the middle that reads P###. What is the number following the 'P'?
 
i think its P793 theres another one on the neck board but the sticker is crap and unreadable. any help and thanks very very much, ur the best
 
i think its P793 theres another one on the neck board but the sticker is crap and unreadable. any help and thanks very very much, ur the best


OK, a P793 is actually a K7500, here is a link to the schematic:

http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Schematics/K7500_25_inch.pdf

The K7500 and U2000/U5000 series all used nearly identical boards so mis-identifying one of these is common.


I don't believe these chassis have the jumpers I was referring to. I have always been able to make the picture fit by adjusting the pots. Now that we have this info maybe someone else will jump in and provide some more information...
 
im a complete noob who has been very lucky adjusting what i have with the help of gentleman such as yourselves. im very appreciative for it and thank you again for your patience and help. i have no idea what B+ voltage is or location, i did just see on a site about K7500 and it says i need to replace a capacitator C614 or something like that which im afraid is way beyond my knowledge and skill level, i dont know crap about soldering and dont want to ruin a great game and i know the cap is very chep but im afraid of the cost to have someone come over and take the chasis out and do it for me. any other things we might be able to adjust the height or v pos with?
 
im a complete noob who has been very lucky adjusting what i have with the help of gentleman such as yourselves. im very appreciative for it and thank you again for your patience and help. i have no idea what B+ voltage is or location, i did just see on a site about K7500 and it says i need to replace a capacitator C614 or something like that which im afraid is way beyond my knowledge and skill level, i dont know crap about soldering and dont want to ruin a great game and i know the cap is very chep but im afraid of the cost to have someone come over and take the chasis out and do it for me. any other things we might be able to adjust the height or v pos with?

actually the capacitor not capacitator is C615 and its supposed to be 33uf 25V. says to replace C615 with that or higher, any idea what this would involve and on a scale of 1-10 1 being easiest 10 being very difficult what would you rate it and 1-10 is it 1 cheapest 10 expensive fix? thanks guys :)
 
i have no idea what B+ voltage is or location

B+ is kind of the primary voltage supply within circuits of the monitor. It turns the AC power going into it into DC, smooths it out, and regulates it to a particular voltage... this is your the B+.

The K7500 is new enough the Wells Gardner (the manufacturer of the monitor) still has literature about it on their website. Go to their service/support page here: http://www.wellsgardner.com/service/ and you'll find a line for K7500 with half a dozen different PDF files available. The "Service Manual" one will show you where the adjustment pot for B+ is. Unfortunately, I don't think it tells you where to measure it, nor what it should be. Do you have a multimeter?

i did just see on a site about K7500 and it says i need to replace a capacitator C614 or something like that

Perhaps you could post a link to the site or post that reached that conclusion. (It seems plausable; I'm just curious as to why someone would suspect that particular cap over the other half-dozen in the vertical deflection circuitry.)

If you've adjusted all of the adjustments and can't solve the problem, I'm afraid it's pretty likely some amount of soldering is likely going to be involved in the repair.
 
B+ is kind of the primary voltage supply within circuits of the monitor. It turns the AC power going into it into DC, smooths it out, and regulates it to a particular voltage... this is your the B+.

The K7500 is new enough the Wells Gardner (the manufacturer of the monitor) still has literature about it on their website. Go to their service/support page here: http://www.wellsgardner.com/service/ and you'll find a line for K7500 with half a dozen different PDF files available. The "Service Manual" one will show you where the adjustment pot for B+ is. Unfortunately, I don't think it tells you where to measure it, nor what it should be. Do you have a multimeter?



Perhaps you could post a link to the site or post that reached that conclusion. (It seems plausable; I'm just curious as to why someone would suspect that particular cap over the other half-dozen in the vertical deflection circuitry.)

If you've adjusted all of the adjustments and can't solve the problem, I'm afraid it's pretty likely some amount of soldering is likely going to be involved in the repair.

yeah i was afraid of that :( maybe in the future ill invest in it to be fixed :) hopefully i can still find a remote adjustment board P790 :) i tried arcade cup but to no avail :( links here

http://www.vendoramusements.com/bbs/nph-YaBB.pl?num=1159890401
 
Yeah its the exact same symptom you are having. Replacing one cap isn't too difficult. Just need to know a little bit about soldering. I'd give it a 4 out of ten since you are a noobie. 1 out of ten for everyone else.
 
remote adjustment board

your remote adjustment board is fine...your model 7500 didn't have a horizontal hold control on the remote...it's on the main chassis.
 
Similar problem here. I recently did a cap kit on a 27" k7500, and afterward I was able to make the image center and fill the screen. Unfortunately the focus wouldn't hold. Upon examining the flyback I found hairline cracks.

I just replaced the flyback, and now the vertical position pot runs out of travel before the image reaches the top of the tube. I've got about 1.5 inches of black at the top of the picture.

I don't have a way to measure the B+ here, but if the problem started after a flyback swap. Does that sound like it may be the cause?
 
Similar problem here. I recently did a cap kit on a 27" k7500, and afterward I was able to make the image center and fill the screen. Unfortunately the focus wouldn't hold. Upon examining the flyback I found hairline cracks.

I just replaced the flyback, and now the vertical position pot runs out of travel before the image reaches the top of the tube. I've got about 1.5 inches of black at the top of the picture.

I don't have a way to measure the B+ here, but if the problem started after a flyback swap. Does that sound like it may be the cause?


I doubt the flyback created the problem, but replacing it may have. The first thing I would do is check the board for cold solder joints or lifted traces. I have never had a flyback slip right into place and while I am test fitting it I often flex the board and that can cause nearly damaged traces/solder pads to fail.

Next thing I would do is check the components in the immediate area. Verify that the following components are still in spec: VR903, R629, Z602, D604. Personally, I think a failed trace or possibly the zener failing is throwing off your center.
 
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