Monitor Guru's - tube swap help

arcadegamer

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I know that this is probally a rehash to some but I thought I was clear on all the discussion topics and procedures before I tackled this , I guess I missed something .
All tubes had a great deal of screen burn and I wanted to dress up the games with newer looking monitors . They also all worked completely . I swapped out 6 tubes over the weekend with the results varying from fantastic to downright bewildering .
On all the tube swaps I used the original yoke that was mated to the chassis ,but I switched the convergence rings - which I think is correct . So here goes :
swap 1 : go7 swapped out tube for tube 9 pin - 19vlmp22 went great looks same.
Swap 2 : go7 swapped out with a48 xxx 9pin not so great pic comes up right away but only fills center of screen about 3" high by 7" wide .
swap 3 : 4600 swapped out with a48xxx 9pin same results as posted above .
swap 4 : 4600 swapped out with 51xxxx 9 pin piece of cake looks great
swap 5 : 4600 swaped out with another 51xxx 9 pin results were less than desired - same smaller screen display as with swap 2 and 3 .
swap 6 : 4600 swapped out with 19 vxxxx 9 pin . picture comes right up but have no control over brightness . Barely make out pic between the retrace lines .
All have some issues yet with convergence and colors as one may expect that need to be addressed .

I thought that the key was to match up the pins and this would make for a good swap .All grounds have been reconnected or spliced in properly . None of the chassis have been capped yet as they were all working before my swaps . Enclosed some pics . Any help with this to clarify my error is appreciated .
 

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Convergence rings should always stay with the tube. They have already been tweeked in to work with that tube.

For the small lictures it looks like the yoke is not in the right place. Try pushing it closer to the front of the tube.
 
Thats what I thought . The rings stay with the tube being swapped(replaced) and the yoke stays with the chassis . I pushed the yoke up to the rubber wedges that stayed stuck to the tube . If they fell of during swap-they were put be in it reassembly. So maybe I should try taking them out - closer to tube -bigger the pic?
 
I'm afraid these are the kind of adjustments that are made while the monitor is /on/. As long as you're careful this shouldn't be a problem. You'll have to watch the picture to see where the yoke should be placed along the neck of the tube.

When you get it to that spot, use the wedges to...well...wedge them into position, and tighten the bolt on the yoke. Just don't overtighten it, you'll crack the neck.
 
Agreed, especially on the two with wonky colors. The yoke too close or too far will cause weird effects.

The other two shrunken ones may require looking at the chassis again.
Jostling them around may have caused a solder joint and such to come loose, especially around the yoke connectors and whatnot. They're not just shrunken, somethings having a hard time.
 
I pushed the yoke up to the rubber wedges that stayed stuck to the tube . If they fell of during swap-they were put be in it reassembly. So maybe I should try taking them out - closer to tube -bigger the pic?

The wedges that were there were adjusted for the yoke that you took out. When swapping yokes you need to find the proper position for your yoke and then use the wedges to hold it there. Another reason I won't swap yokes unless absolutely necessary....
 
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