Monitor Adjustments Question

super56k

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What am I missing here? I've been trying to get both of my Hydro Thunder's monitors to match each other but I just can't get it dialed in:


My left Hydro Thunder's waters appear "grayer". It does not look quite as bad in person as is does in this video, but it's noticeable. It's almost like it's lacking blue but look at all of the text on the screen and the blue boost pickups in the water. Why is it JUST the water? I've messed with the colors, contrast, brightness, etc.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the right one came to me with a dead monitor and I installed a cap-kit and flyback to bring it back. I have not done any work to the left one as it seems to be working fine.
 
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in test mode, there should be a Color Bars monitor test. I don't remember how the menus were structured in Hydro Thunder, as it's not a Midway Chicago game, but you would look at the gradients for red green and blue and match them between monitors. I'm certain the background in there was black, so make sure it's actually black.
 
I'm reading that you left one monitor alone and serviced the 2nd just enough to get it operational. I'm going to suggest that the easiest way to get them both dialed in so they look the same is going to require you (or someone) to go through each chassis and do a relatively compressive overhaul.

Caps are a good start but I'd be reflowing the power sections, power resistors, connectors and pots. As well as testing all power resistors for being in spec. Once you've gotten through that, manuals usually provide a set of "calibration" instructions to dial them in (adjustments that @mecha is discussing). In some cases they want you to use an Oscilloscope to set the blanking offset.

I've been trying to dial my Cyberball monitors in to make them match and it's been a PITA even after all the above. The truth is I need to pull them out of the game and put them side by side to do the adjustments.
 
in test mode, there should be a Color Bars monitor test. I don't remember how the menus were structured in Hydro Thunder, as it's not a Midway Chicago game, but you would look at the gradients for red green and blue and match them between monitors. I'm certain the background in there was black, so make sure it's actually black.
I'll double-check the color bars. I want to say that if I match the colors, the blacks don't match perfectly but it's been a bit. Thanks.
 
I'm reading that you left one monitor alone and serviced the 2nd just enough to get it operational. I'm going to suggest that the easiest way to get them both dialed in so they look the same is going to require you (or someone) to go through each chassis and do a relatively compressive overhaul.

Caps are a good start but I'd be reflowing the power sections, power resistors, connectors and pots. As well as testing all power resistors for being in spec. Once you've gotten through that, manuals usually provide a set of "calibration" instructions to dial them in (adjustments that @mecha is discussing). In some cases they want you to use an Oscilloscope to set the blanking offset.

I've been trying to dial my Cyberball monitors in to make them match and it's been a PITA even after all the above. The truth is I need to pull them out of the game and put them side by side to do the adjustments.
I've "restored" a lot of monitors over the years but I just learned from tips on here. No direct expert guidance so to speak. Usually, that process for me is to install a cap kit and new flyback, visually check every solder point and reflow / continuity check any questionable ones, smoke test, check / adjust B+, dial the picture in, burn in, and then throw it back in the game. If the tube is problematic, I have a B&K tube tester / rejuvinator too I've used once or twice but I've never messed with the other components unless something is "broke". I had to replace a HOT on a GO7 once with the guidance of the great people here but it sounds like you're suggesting to check every component? In-circuit?
 
but it sounds like you're suggesting to check every component? In-circuit?

I don't check every component. I check specific subsets as I mentioned in addition to other work. Eg:
As well as testing all power resistors for being in spec.

The 1 watt and greater resistors are the ones that undergo the most stress and there's a subset of them that typically have fallen out of spec. If you've not gone through this type of chassis before I'd suggest that you pull one leg of each resistor and validate it's value. After a few of them you start to learn what in-circuit value you expect to read.
 
@bakerhillpins I'll have to give that a try, thanks. I don't think I've ever seen a "bad" resistor that was not physically blown but I guess I did not realize that they decay over time in addition to blowing.
 
@bakerhillpins I'll have to give that a try, thanks. I don't think I've ever seen a "bad" resistor that was not physically blown but I guess I did not realize that they decay over time in addition to blowing.

The older style composite resistors are (IIRC) no longer produced because they have a horrible service life and decay away from spec quite often. There's lots of discussion on this if you search the site for folks rebuilding B&K Rejuvenators.

Also search the site for K7000 R101. This 6.8k ohm 5w resistor is notoriously out of spec on those monitors.

Corrosion from exposure is another concern on many of the wire wound power resistors so if you've got an abused chassis many of them will show corrosion on the ends.
 
My guess is a tube issue. I went through the same thing when trying to get my 4x hydro thunders to have a similar picture. Swap the chassis between tubes to see if there's a difference.

Specifically these tubes:
20230708_105139.jpg
 
Good point!

My guess is a tube issue. I went through the same thing when trying to get my 4x hydro thunders to have a similar picture. Swap the chassis between tubes to see if there's a difference.

Specifically these tubes:
View attachment 794405

Ah, these are 25" monitors... Didn't someone mention that certain WG 25" chassis seem to be really hard on tubes?
 
Hmm... I do have a B&K 467 tube tester and rejuvenator too.

EDIT: Typo
 
Thank you everyone for your input. I'm always looking to expand my knowledge and skills.
 
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