Monitor acts like it shuts off and on real quick?

First off, A63etc is the tube number. all that tells me is that it is a 25" tube.

Determine what model your chassis is:

http://therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
http://www.jomac.net.au/mon.htm

Second - it's possible a cold solder joint and/or caps are to blame - or even a vert ic - but since it seemed to happen during screen changes, have you ruled out the possibility that it could be board-related? I know some program bugs can cause screen collapse when switching screens (Tempest is a famous example)...
 
I think it was a coincidence that it happened that way. It did it on me a bunch while flying threw the first level (no screen changes). I played the same game yesterday for 20 minutes and it never happened, so I don't think it's the board but I can put in another game and try that.

I will look again for the proper model number tonight. Thanks.

Also, it seemed to happen more often the longer the monitor was left on. If that helps.
 
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intermittent vertical collapse( tube is sideways which is why i say vertical not horizontal)


take some good pics of the monitors chassis( circuit board) and lets see if we can identify it.

DOes this issue come and go if you smack the side of the game cabinet?
 
Going back to the arcade in a few, I will try the SMACK ATTACK and see what happens. It is odd that I didn't notice it until I moved the cabinet a bit. Hmmmm.

I will try to get some pics too.

Ed
 
Smacking it around didn't seem to make it jump.

here is a picture.

Thanks for the help.
 

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its a k7000 lots of people on here fix them good luck.
read the stickey it has a tun of good advice it has helped me many many times fixing this model.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thank You.

Ok, I put a World Warrior board in there. Was fine for about 15-20 minutes and it was doing the same thing so we know it's not just the game that was in there.

What's next? Cap kit or something else?

I am also trying to figure out where to find the exact model number so I know which cap kit to order. Any hints?
 
its the standerd k7000

use this kit it fits all the regular k7000's
K7000 13"/19"/25" color $6.00

Peace
Buffett
 
Here is the bottom of the pcb. Do they always look like this? Looks frankensteined together lol.
 

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leave all that frankinstine alone its factory and not dockumented reflow the solder where ever it is need and leave the parts on there.

Peace
Buffett
 
OH yeah, I am not that brave haha.

I will go through the points mentioned for screen collapsing and hit the caps at the same time.

Thanks again for all the help.

Ed
 
Well cap kit done, and I looked over the bottom solder sucking and resoldering all the bad looking areas. I didn't see any signs of bad traces, did see some questionable solder.

Fired it back up and it's doing the same thing, only worse. It does it right away now (no warm up time before it happens).

I noticed my flyback is the one with white knobs, but I don't see any cracking or leaking from it. Could the fly back cause this problem?

If not, what is the estimated costs to ship the pcb to someone for repairs?

Ed
 
Just a quick bump.

I pulled the board back out and have it in front of me. I took a few more pictures, maybe someone can spot something I am missing that is giving me this problem.

Thanks,

Ed
 

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Most people charge $50-75 to fix these. That may or may not include a new flyback. I don't see any fresh solder on the connections where you plug in the RGB and Sync wires nor fresh solder on the bottom of the flyback pins. You might also want to freshen up the solder on the 4 pins of the voltage regulator mounted on the side of the frame. Did you replace the cap on the neckboard?
 
Here is the bottom of the pcb. Do they always look like this? Looks frankensteined together lol.

In this picture the pin on the flyback at about 11 o'clock looks pitted to me. You should reflow the flyback for sure. There are going to be a few other spots on that board that will need new solder as well.

Since you've already done the cap kit and the problem is worse you could also have a broken/bad pot in the vertical deflection circuit.
 
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