MK1 board, good roms, not working

[bigbadmiker]

Yes, exactly. It scrambles almost instantly after the Mortal Kombat title screen is displayed. Then restarts.

I pushed down all the rom chips. They all seemed to be seated well. I haven't tried removing and reseating all of them yet. I guess that will be next.


Regarding the battery, the retaining clip is missing. Any ideas on how to keep it from falling out...glue?

 

[TK_Monkey]

Regarding the battery, the retaining clip is missing. Any ideas on how to keep it from falling out...glue?

If by this you mean the metal bit that goes across the top and ends about 2/3 of the way across the battery, I'm pretty sure that's the other point of contact for power to the battery, so just holding the battery in with glue would be fairly pointless. If you can wire a jumper or replace the holder the battery goes into completely, you'd probably be a lot better off.

 

[bigbadmiker]

If by this you mean the metal bit that goes across the top and ends about 2/3 of the way across the battery, I'm pretty sure that's the other point of contact for power to the battery, so just holding the battery in with glue would be fairly pointless. If you can wire a jumper or replace the holder the battery goes into completely, you'd probably be a lot better off.

Yeah, that makes sense.

 

[mecha]

yar, that's exactly what I thought. replacing the battery holder shouldn't be any overbearing chore though. or you could do the glue/jumper wire approach too. lol

OR, I think you could just solder the battery to the + and - leads on the board too. glue it that way.

 

[bigbadmiker]

Yeah, I think I'll solder. Cool. Thanks.

 

[TK_Monkey]

Yeah, I think I'll solder. Cool. Thanks.

If you're going to do soldering anyway, just solder in a new battery holder. Desoldering and resoldering a button battery in place every so often will be a pain in the ass.

 

[bigbadmiker]

I don't have a battery holder, but I do have a battery. Where do you get a battery holder?

 

[TK_Monkey]

I don't have a battery holder, but I do have a battery. Where do you get a battery holder?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1026K-ND

This one *should* do it. They have a bunch of options for the 20mm diameter batteries:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=393250&k=2025 battery holder

http://mouser.com also has parts but their search sucks. http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ also has parts, though not this particular item. http://therealbobroberts.net ditto, and http://www.pacmandotcom.com/ have parts, though again, not this holder from the looks of things.

 

[Hewitson]

well I guess it's your mistake for buying a board from him that's not listed as tested working, when he has GOBS of MK1 boards that are listed as working for sale in his store.

What a load of shit. People assume things work, if it doesn't work, it should be listed as fucked.

 

[Hewitson]

Check the power supply voltage at the board.
I've seen MK series boards act weird if the voltage is just a tad low.
Some needed the 5v bumped up to like 5.3v

No they didn't. Insufficent wiring was used between the +5v of the PSU and the board, causing unnecessary voltage drop.

 

[bigbadmiker]

I've got 5.3v going to the board...it doesn't make a difference...at least not for the problems I'm encountering.

 

[bigbadmiker]

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1026K-ND

This one *should* do it. They have a bunch of options for the 20mm diameter batteries:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=393250&k=2025 battery holder

http://mouser.com also has parts but their search sucks. http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ also has parts, though not this particular item. http://therealbobroberts.net ditto, and http://www.pacmandotcom.com/ have parts, though again, not this holder from the looks of things.

Thanks! I'll order one.

 

[bigbadmiker]

What a load of shit. People assume things work, if it doesn't work, it should be listed as fucked.

Thanks for the support. Although, I knew how this guy's style, so I should've known.

What pisses me off is that a perfectly working MK board sold for $16 shipped this morning. That includes the soundboard, power, and ribbon cable.


I spent $44.

 

[mecha]

What a load of shit. People assume things work, if it doesn't work, it should be listed as fucked.

I've never gotten anything bad from the seller, because he does in fact mark his auctions as either NOT WORKING (which also is reflected by a reduced price compared to an equivalent working counterpart) or WORKING. every item I've purchased was something labeled as WORKING, and as such I've never had any issues. I've bought everything from Midway game boards to Tekken boards to control panel overlays or other misc. boards.

if you look at his store, you'll probably find a dozen MK1 boards listed, maybe 10 of the 12 are known working.

No they didn't. Insufficent wiring was used between the +5v of the PSU and the board, causing unnecessary voltage drop.

I'm no scholar on the subject, but I would think any time you have a video game boardset that consists of multiple boards, it's going to have higher demands for the +5 setting on the PSU. though none of my 5 MK1-4 boards have ever required 5.3V.... I've had success running them at about 5.15. are you saying the factory JAMMA wiring was of an inferior gauge?

 

[7146aaron]

loss

He is saying there is a connection issue between the powersupply and the board causing the voltage loss. Voltage + resistance = lower voltage. I am trying to be a little nicer about it though.

 

[mecha]

I'm no scholar on the subject, but I would think any time you have a video game boardset that consists of multiple boards, it's going to have higher demands for the +5 setting on the PSU. though none of my 5 MK1-4 boards have ever required 5.3V.... I've had success running them at about 5.15. are you saying the factory JAMMA wiring was of an inferior gauge?

He is saying there is a connection issue between the powersupply and the board causing the voltage loss. Voltage + resistance = lower voltage. I am trying to be a little nicer about it though.[/QUOTE]

yes. I know all about voltage loss. had one of those screw terminal Peter Chou PSUs where the game wouldn't always start up, it'd go into like overload protection I think (common problem, Ken actually found a way to fix these) and I went crazy adjusting the +5 and metering the ICs until I just decided to replace it lol

that was in my early days with MK2. I don't think that's what's the problem here, cause I guess aside from the intro screen scrambling and the game resetting, the game works perfectly fine otherwise. if it's not exhibiting any other issues during gameplay I'm gonna have to say whatever rom holds the intro screen data is the one that's a little loopy, despite the rom check showing good.

 

[7146aaron]

MK

I agree 100% Mine is doing the same thing. I have done all the usual stuff.

 

[bigbadmiker]

I've never gotten anything bad from the seller, because he does in fact mark his auctions as either NOT WORKING (which also is reflected by a reduced price compared to an equivalent working counterpart) or WORKING. every item I've purchased was something labeled as WORKING, and as such I've never had any issues. I've bought everything from Midway game boards to Tekken boards to control panel overlays or other misc. boards.

if you look at his store, you'll probably find a dozen MK1 boards listed, maybe 10 of the 12 are known working.



I'm no scholar on the subject, but I would think any time you have a video game boardset that consists of multiple boards, it's going to have higher demands for the +5 setting on the PSU. though none of my 5 MK1-4 boards have ever required 5.3V.... I've had success running them at about 5.15. are you saying the factory JAMMA wiring was of an inferior gauge?

Bam!!! Ok, here is the description from the MK board I bought. It says Tested Working...so yeah, I thought it would work. I decided to look it up and it indeed states tested working. For some reason, I thought it didn't say so...had to go back and look it up. The addition of the green roms information is why I thought it might have issues. He doesn't say that on any of the other working MK boards.


DOES NOT COME WITH POWER CABLE TO SOUND BOARD SO WILL NOT HAVE SOUND INCLUDING MANUAL SO YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN, ALL ROM COME ON GREEN IN TEST START UP MODE, TESTED working video arcade game jamma board as pictured
SOLD WITH NO WARRANTY OR RETURNS. i can wait up to 30 days for payment ..............................................................................

 

[mecha]

Bam!!! Ok, here is the description from the MK board I bought. It says Tested Working...so yeah, I thought it would work. I decided to look it up and it indeed states tested working. For some reason, I thought it didn't say so...had to go back and look it up. The addition of the green roms information is why I thought it might have issues. He doesn't say that on any of the other working MK boards.


DOES NOT COME WITH POWER CABLE TO SOUND BOARD SO WILL NOT HAVE SOUND INCLUDING MANUAL SO YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN, ALL ROM COME ON GREEN IN TEST START UP MODE, TESTED working video arcade game jamma board as pictured
SOLD WITH NO WARRANTY OR RETURNS. i can wait up to 30 days for payment ..............................................................................

so wait.. I may have asked this, I've been busy the last few days since being back home, lol, did you hook the sound board up with just the ribbon cable and not the power cable?

I think you might've said you ran it without the sound board. I don't recall. long days here. heh

 

[bigbadmiker]

so wait.. I may have asked this, I've been busy the last few days since being back home, lol, did you hook the sound board up with just the ribbon cable and not the power cable?

I think you might've said you ran it without the sound board. I don't recall. long days here. heh

Hey Mecha,


Yeah, I was wondering what happened to you. I ran it without the sound board, no cables attached. So, it does that crazy graphics scramble at the title screen, then restart, over and over. It will, however, when set to freeplay by dipswitch, allow you to hit player 1 or 2 and play the game just fine. I can't seem to get any further. I haven't soldered the battery yet, but as you said, it won't make a difference. I'm kinda giving up on it. I think I'll end up selling it.