Missile Command Power Brick wiring help -- blowing fuses

hindered

Well-known member

Donor 2015
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
1,796
Reaction score
32
Location
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Missile Command Power Brick wiring help -- blowing fuses

Do I have the wires hooked up properly here? The positive side is going to the molex connector while the negative side appears to be going into the ISO transformer. Is this correct? I blew F4 and F5 when trying to power it up after rebuilding the A/R II and replacing the big blue.

Any guidance?

 
It looks ok to me. On the positive side, you've got the red/black running to the molex (pin 1). On the negative side, you should have 2 wires. One of those wires runs from the transformer (not to the transformer), that wire should be colored red/yellow. The other wire on the negative side runs to the molex (pin 2), that wire is colored red green.

So, it looks to me like you've put the wiring from the rectifier board back in the correct places. It's odd that you're blowing both fuses F4 (25VAC), and F5 (10.3VDC). The 25VAC doesn't go anywhere near the big blue/rectifier board. Bearing in mind you're also blowing F5 my guess is that you've got a problem on the newly rebuilt AR2.

That's on the basis that you didn't change any of the other wiring. I see that all of the connections use spade connectors. On my MC everything is soldered. If you've been busy swapping out fuse holders/spade connectors whilst working on the power assembly then something else might have gone awry.
 
Short answer, no you do not have it wired correctly. There is no negative side in AC, either.
Thought he was talking about the DC output side of rectifier board (as these are the wires he would have removed when swapping the big blue).
 
Thought he was talking about the DC output side of rectifier board (as these are the wires he would have removed when swapping the big blue).

Yep, this. Everything else is the same as how I got it. There's clearly a positive and negative side on the big blue.
 
So, it looks to me like you've put the wiring from the rectifier board back in the correct places. It's odd that you're blowing both fuses F4 (25VAC), and F5 (10.3VDC). The 25VAC doesn't go anywhere near the big blue/rectifier board. Bearing in mind you're also blowing F5 my guess is that you've got a problem on the newly rebuilt AR2.

Pics of the A/R II
 

Attachments

  • DSC07116.jpg
    DSC07116.jpg
    93.3 KB · Views: 22
  • DSC07119.jpg
    DSC07119.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 17
  • DSC07120.jpg
    DSC07120.jpg
    88.5 KB · Views: 15
  • DSC07122.jpg
    DSC07122.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 15
I take your word for it, but C18 and C19 still look right to me. If they're in wrong, can you please educate me? Looking closer, C10 indeed appears to be backwards. All the rest are clearly marked and look to be installed correctly.

EDIT: Well, shit. Compared to this pic: http://www.arcadesolution.com/pics/35435_02.jpg I have C18 and C10 backwards, just like you said. I still don't see on the board how C18 should be marked to put in the other way, but I'll be damned if I don't have it backwards. I'll swap them around this weekend when I have the chance to pick up some 2.5amp slowblow fuses and get back to you. Any chance I damaged anything else on the A/R II by installing these caps backwards? I assume the fuses blowing probably saved the other components...

BTW thanks to everyone for replying in this thread, as always I greatly appreciate the help of everyone on the boards.
 

Attachments

  • DSC07123.jpg
    DSC07123.jpg
    83.7 KB · Views: 20
  • DSC07124.jpg
    DSC07124.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 19
Last edited:
For clarification, I was blowing F3 and F4 -- my bad. This probably makes a lot more sense to those of you who were wondering why I was blowing f5.

I flipped C18 and C10, replaced the fuses, and everything comes up as expected now -- thanks everyone. Continuing the saga of getting this machine back up and running here: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=150193
 
Back
Top Bottom