Missile Command cabaret - out with the rotten, in with the new

[joeycuda]

Formica is a bit thicker than vinyl, you might want to offset the t-molding slot a bit from the center so that the molding sits flush to the edge of the Formica. Otherwise you'll see the formica edge outside of the molding. Though I'm probably just repeating what you already know. You're doing an awesome job so far, lots of dedication going on here and it's going to look amazing when you're done. Can wait to see it complete!

Ya know, the reason I originally used Formica on the inner panels is that I thought in putting it together and with the brackets and control panel opening and closing, the vinyl might get jacked up.

I did think of the extra thickness versus t-molding, but thanks for bringing it up. I thought if I use woodgrain Formica for the outside, I might need to just go with the 13/16" t-molding. I think, at a glance, you wouldn't notice the thicker overall panel.

 

[toolguy]

Real nice job so far and it will look great when done!

I see your leg levers were all gone, thus contriobutiong the the cab damage. Two on my asteroids cab were also gone but no damage like yours. I guess the crappy T nuts sucked and the legs fell off on them.

 

[Witchboard]

That looks great! This may be a stupid question, but why not stain and varnish the outside instead of going with wood grain laminate?

 

[m_mcgovern]

Formica is a bit thicker than vinyl, you might want to offset the t-molding slot a bit from the center so that the molding sits flush to the edge of the Formica. Otherwise you'll see the formica edge outside of the molding. Though I'm probably just repeating what you already know. You're doing an awesome job so far, lots of dedication going on here and it's going to look amazing when you're done. Can wait to see it complete!

opt2not has a good idea...the other option would be to buy slightly larger t-molding and use the "chisel-method" to cut it to size:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86699.msg911119#msg911119

 

[joeycuda]

opt2not has a good idea...the other option would be to buy slightly larger t-molding and use the "chisel-method" to cut it to size:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86699.msg911119#msg911119

The chisel method looks good, I wonder if one of those edge banding cutters would do it easier? They sell a cheap version of that tool at Lowes with the melamine and oak veneer edge banding. You run it along the edge and it has a razor built into it.

Good ideas..thanks all.

 

[opt2not]

The chisel method looks good, I wonder if one of those edge banding cutters would do it easier? They sell a cheap version of that tool at Lowes with the melamine and oak veneer edge banding. You run it along the edge and it has a razor built into it.

Good ideas..thanks all.

This method was pretty easy to pull off. The chisel cuts through that t-molding like butter. But if there's a better tool out there, that's more cost effective, then I say go for it!

 

[joeycuda]

I haven't updated this in a while, so here goes:

I had the side panels made, with matte black Formica applied to inner sides. Had most all of the pieces cut, but ended up cutting a new bottom piece, as I'd screwed that piece up.

I also got a Hitachi 1/4" narrow crown stapler and am using it for the assembly, with glue, basically what was done originally. I'm trying to space the staples out the same, but am a bit loose with that.

 

[joeycuda]

As I went to install the upper rear and top panels, things just weren't lining up. It was as if the cabinet was skewed and it was. With those plywood side panels sitting for months, one had warped quite a bit. It bent slightly inwards as it went towards the top.

I put the cabinet, warped side down, on the tablesaw, then clamped that side down and weighted it also. Left it for a couple of weeks and it mostly flattened out:

After that, I was able to install the top and upper back. The mitered edges butted up almost razor sharp. Again, I tried to staple it, as the factory did-

More pics:

 

[joeycuda]

Here's the coin box support thing, before the mortise for the bracket:

before and after, in progress:

I will have to reinstall the wiring harness, with the wire ties stapled, as originally done in the old cabinet:

The PCB rails were tricky. It looked like they were originally installed with a wide crown stapler. I tried my 22ga stapler and the plastic shattered. After regluing the chip with CA glue, I used 1/4" hex screws, like Midway did:

For the monitor mount assembly, I did reuse the one piece, cutout with bolts for the marquee light to mount to. The actual 'wings' that the monitor mounts to, 3/4" blocking, etc.. was replaced. I counter sunk those 2 holes on each side (although it was glued AND stapled from the bottom), because the original was done that way. The old screws were rusty, so I ended up using powdercoated deck screws, sprayed satin black.

 

[joeycuda]

Here's the completed monitor and light fixture mount assembly, hanging on the cabinet, before installation:

Because the old light fixture board was smelly and nasty, I cut a brand new piece, installed a new ballast, starter, and correct sized bulb (for those brackets), and even stapled the wire ties, like the old one. 1/2" birch and 1/4" birch plywood:

 

[JoeB1355]

This is AWESOME work -- It looks great!!

I can't wait to see the rest of the progress

 

[JeffC]

Holy crap man! I just read this whole thread. This goes way beyond a restoration; more like a full rebuild. My wordworking skills are so weak I'm always amazed by what some of you experts do rebuilding cabinets. This is fantastic work; I can't wait to see the finished product.

P.S. Please post the fireball pictures when you burn that old shell.

 

[ThisOldGame]

ah now I see the reasons for the Pms on the control panel
Nice Work!

 

[joeycuda]

Thanks all. Because of the recess for the marquee and some of the panel dadoes, I think an upright cabinet will be easier to build. It's been a pain, but I can see the finish line. More to come..

 

[retroACTIVE]

Damn fine work!!!! Some of the best I've seen, your stuff looks CNC'd.

 

[Phetishboy]

Nice fucking work Joey. Gives me some excellent insight into my DK cabaret build that should be taking place next year.

 

[joeycuda]

Damn fine work!!!! Some of the best I've seen, your stuff looks CNC'd.

It ain't perfect, but all the square cuts came out razor sharp. When I cut the recess for the marquee, I clamped some guides in place, but now realize I could have built a jig that would have made it more precise..stuff like that. I'm planning on using the Arcadeshop woodgrain vinyl. The monitor has been rebuilt, but the boardset will probably need repair.

 

[joeycuda]

I've made a little more progress on the rebuild. First off, I replicated the control panel stops that go on the inner cabinet:

I used a water based Minwax clear on the sides, 4 coats, sanding between each, getting it smooth as silk. I had planned on using woodgrain vinyl, but Arcadeshop was out of it.

By some near miracle, I found a few sheets of woodgrain laminate for cheap at a surplus (junk) store. These were in a pile, cracked, brittle, and where you get just enough out of one sheet. I think I got enough after this cabinet to also do one more cabaret build and a Frogger front (another future thread).

I gave it a light sanding, got the surface free of dust a debris, then used contact cement on the cabinet and laminate, applying with a foam roller. I then applied it, then put a lot of pressure on it, rolling with a j-roller. I then flush trimmed with a 1/2" flush trim router bit. Some pics:

 

[joeycuda]

I actually messed a piece up, pissing me off.. You have to use dowels so that you can position the laminate before letting it down to stick, picking a starting point and moving tightly in one direction - as you would with a decal. This stuff is vertical grade and very thin..it drooped and stuck before I was ready, not aligned. I had to pull it up and cut another piece, apply more contact cement.

These pics are after the trimming with the router:

I had a slight tear at one edge on the other side. Not bad enough to redo, as I'm short on material, but not perfect. It'll do.

Biggest mistake I've made in constructing this, and I can fix it - I forgot to cut the big dado at the top of the front panel before putting it together. I had to make a jig of sorts and cut that dado out with a big straight router bit, careful not to hit the sides. Got a chip on one side that I can repair, as I have the chip of laminate. Also plan to do some filling and sanding before painting the area flat black. Just annoying, as this would have been EASY on the table saw had I not forgot:

 

[kspiff]

This thread is inspiring me to undertake a similar huge project which I'd have no chance of finishing lol.