Missile Command cabaret - out with the rotten, in with the new

[joeycuda]

Missile Command cabaret - out with the rotten, in with the new

I won an Ebay auction for a Space Zap mini in 2010. When I phoned the seller about picking it up, he offered to sell me the Missile Command cabaret, which was in rough shape. I thought it sounded like a fun project so I jumped on it.

Sidenote.. I ended up trading the Space Zap for a Berzerk project, but that's another thread in the future.

The MC was rough..and as far as I was concerned, the cabinet a loss. Mice had been in it, stained wood. Quite a lot of swelling at the bottom, crumbling, and general rot. While the cabinet was rough, the monitor, boards, harness, etc.. were dirty, but totally fine.

This thread will document the total restoration of the MC cabaret, including building a new cabinet from scratch.

Instead of particle board, as originally done, I decided to build the cabinet from 3/4" sanded birch ply. For some reason, I also decided that while parts that were vinyl covered, would be done that way in general, I would use matte black formica for the inner cabinet sides. It's overkill, but I don't regret it.

Here are some pics of the cabinet, as I received it:

 

[joeycuda]

 

[joeycuda]

I started by making the new side panels. I cut down the 3/4" ply to the exact width (front to back of cabinet), and a bit taller than the cabinet. The plan was to get the square cuts exact, trace the panel, rough cut, then clamp in place and follow the profile with a flush trim bit.

Here, the square cuts are done:

I clamped it in place, then traced the outline of the cabinet, so I could rough cut it with a jigsaw:

I clamped the panel in place, aligning the square edges to the original cabinet:

This illustrates how blown out the bottom edges were:

 

[joeycuda]

Skip forward, blah blah router dust, and I used a flush trim bit with the router to 'trim' the new panel to match the original profile.

That part of the original cabinet was not swollen or damaged, so it served as a good template:

Finished panel, did the same for both sides:

 

[joeycuda]

I started by cutting a replacement for the rear, lower panel. It has a miter cut, where it joins the bottom panel, but the miter was nearly gone on the original piece. Here's the original and the replacement, correct size believe it or not:

As far as an entire panel went, this was by far the worst condition:

 

[joeycuda]

Inside reference shots, necessary when I have to reassemble (and have forgotten everything by then...)

 

[joeycuda]

More inside reference shots:

Those pieces that the top panel sits on are apparently quarter round molding... I have since cut new pieces and finished them in RustOleum satin black..

 

[joeycuda]

The front panel would also be cut from plywood, but this is the one area of the cabinet where the Formica type laminate was actually used. The matte black I bought at Home Depot was a perfect match.

The challenge in cutting the front is making the recess for the marquee. I've since thought of much cleaner and accurate ways to do it, but basically I
-made the actual cutout for the marquee
-used temporary fences to guide the router in cutting the recess

I'm halfway tempted to cut a new front, but probably shouldn't, as it turned out fine:

Here's the old cabinet, new plywood blank for the front panel, and piece of laminate:

The coin door cutout should ideally be a clean cut, but since it's hidden, it doesn't have to be perfect. I've seen factory cutouts that looked sloppy.

Could have used the New Yankee Workshop, or another method with guide bushings, but it came out ok:

I had to mask and spray the exposed wood, as the original piece. I've yet to make the rabbet at the top edge and the cutout for the trackball assembly:

 

[joeycuda]

The top panel was in rougher shape than it appears. It was cracked, making it seem hinged. There were plenty of fun cuts to make here:

The special cuts:
-cutout for speaker
-rabbet for that hole
-cutout for vent
-miter cut on edge that joins to upper back
-rabbet for front/top metal bracket/trim
-slot for monitor glass

New plywood looks so much better than that swollen mess:

 

[joeycuda]

After filling any knots or splits in the top ply with filler, I sanded it with 220. I sprayed all areas that would not be covered by the vinyl, then later sanded again to get it slick.

After making sure the surface was smooth and removing all dust, I applied black vinyl, from ThisOldGame, using a j-roller and a beer (not shown):

There are some smudges in the photo, but the vinyl went on perfectly. Even though this is plywood, no grain is really visible. The wood has been sanded so smoothly that you would think this was PB or MDF.

 

[joeycuda]

Upper back piece:

gluing the 'tabs' on that act as stops for the back door:

These 2 little strips require a rabbet for the plastic plate that retains the power cord..

The bottom panel and the blocking, that will attach to the side panels, has been cut and test fit:

 

[Icanbyorsuprman]

In for the restore on this one. You have your work cut out for you....in more ways then one.

 

[joeycuda]

At this point, I've already applied the Formica laminate to the inner side panels. I used the contact cement - brushed a coat on both surfaces, let it sit the recommended amount of time, joined the 2 pieces, then put as much pressure as I could on it with the j-roller.

I later used the router and the flush trim bit to trim the laminate. Surprisingly, nothing went wrong and the panels are still pristine.

I've started attaching the blocking, using 16ga finish nails. Though the original cabinets relied quite a bit on staples to lock the joints together, I want a more secure joint.

My plan is to use a plate joiner and biscuits with glue. The 3/4" blocking will be used, as in the original cabinet, but the blocking will also serve as fences for cutting the biscuit slots. A glued joint will be possible on the wood-> laminate(or vinyl) joints by doing this. Looking at the inside of the cabinet, no one will be able to see the biscuit joints, the cabinet will appear to be constructed like an original one, yet it will be stronger, and lighter due to plywood construction.

That is all for now..more soon, I hope.

 

[joeycuda]

In for the restore on this one. You have your work cut out for you....in more ways then one.

I hear ya.. I last worked on this months ago, as you can see green grass. I got burned out, but am about ready to get back on the horse.

I plan on using Formica woodgrain for the sides, instead of vinyl, but if cabaret style sideart were available, I'd be all over it..

 

[Icanbyorsuprman]

I can see where you'd get burned out. You pretty much are building your own cab to their specs again. That's a lot of work but again just think of the finished project.

 

[retroACTIVE]

I'll tell you what you've got here.... a new missile command cab with a far superior construction than the original!

Missile Command is such a great game and you are doing it a great service! Top notch carpenty my friend!!!!

 

[JoeB1355]

Balck formica

You used vinyl on the back and bought black formica local for the insides and front?

Where did you buy local?

 

[joeycuda]

I ordered it at Home Depot. Around here, there's usually a guy sitting at a desk in the cabinetry section. I believe they mostly deal with ordering semi-custom countertops and cabinetry. There are samples on a chain of WilsonArt and Formica brands, looked like a dozen woodgrains too. I got the matte black, but when I asked about the regular versus thinner vertical grade, he didn't know what I was talking about, so it's the standard, probably 1/32" or maybe thinner.

He wrote my order on a form and gave me a sheet to take up front to pay with. When I paid, it put it in the system to order. I believe it took about a week, and they called me to come pick it up. Since it only coils up so much, the box was 4ft tall by 18" square or something.. pretty big box.

 

[Spyridon]

This is looking really good. Nice work so far.

 

[opt2not]

I plan on using Formica woodgrain for the sides, instead of vinyl, but if cabaret style sideart were available, I'd be all over it..

Formica is a bit thicker than vinyl, you might want to offset the t-molding slot a bit from the center so that the molding sits flush to the edge of the Formica. Otherwise you'll see the formica edge outside of the molding. Though I'm probably just repeating what you already know. You're doing an awesome job so far, lots of dedication going on here and it's going to look amazing when you're done. Can wait to see it complete!