FS Parts: Millipede PCB, refurbed, 1-year warranty - $325 shipped/$225 w trade

andrewb

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I have another nice Millipede PCB for sale. This board has been meticulously cleaned, repaired, and tested by me.

Details:
- Rev A PCB, serial number UR02394.
- Thoroughly washed and dried. So clean you can eat off of it.
- Two NOS Pokeys. (Both replaced by me with NOS chips. $140 value.)
- Edge connector is in perfect condition, no damage, and has been burnished and treated with DeOxit.
- Board has been repaired, bulletproofed, all functions verified, and burn-in tested in my personal Millipede cab.

This board does NOT include, but is ready for, a Super Multipede kit from Highscoresaves, or a Braze Multipede kit from Mike's Arcade.

Includes 1-year warranty. If you have any problems, just pay to ship it back to me, and I will repair and return ship for free.

$325 shipped in the US. Int'l shipping extra.
$225 shipped with trade-in of your dead but complete Millipede PCB.

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Bump.

Can you elaborate on what you do to bullet-proof these boards, other than change the crappy sockets?
Thanks!

I actually don't normally replace sockets on Atari boards, unless they are one of the couple of types that are especially failure-prone. And those are basically SCANBE brand sockets you see on some Asteroids boards, and the very low-profile silver single-wipe sockets you see on some Gravitar/BW's and Havocs, which like to break pins under the sockets. Otherwise if they are any of the gold-plated types, they're fine and don't need replacing.

Bulletproofing basically involves proactively replacing any parts that are known to be statistically failure-prone (meaning parts that I've seen failed multiple times across multiple boards). Basically anything you can do to remove things you know to be weak points, based on data from other boards.

No two Atari boards are the same. Atari sourced chips from many different manufacturers back in the day, and were often buying up the whole market for some chips, as they were cranking out these boards in huge volumes. As a result, you see a lot of different brands of chips on these boards. But there are patterns of certain brands of chips in certain locations that you'll see fail more frequently. If you see any of these and they aren't already failed, replacing them before they do will make that board incrementally more reliable.

(And no, I'm not going to write them out here, but many of them have been mentioned in other threads.)
 
I saw a broken board sold on eBay for about $160. Assuming two broken pokeys (which you pretty much have to assume), that's $300 before any work or repairs are done. I thought it went way too high.

Seems like a really good price for this bullet-proofed board.
 
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