Mike's DK Jr project...a novice approach to a restoration

[mike boss]

Mike's DK Jr project...a novice approach to a restoration

So I've picked up my old Nintendo cabinet and will TRY to bring it back to it's past glory. I don't mean factory fresh....but say.....it's fourth or fifth home in an arcade fresh ?

It will be my first time using pondo, first time "trying" to do an outstanding paint job. In reality it will many 1sts. And if all goes well the 1st project I can say I'm really really proud of.

I'll be using this thread to ask questions from the experts.
Hope you all don't mind. Such a wealth of information on the WWW, I find I'm often overwhelmed with the results.

Anyway here are some pics.

 

[mike boss]

Today I managed to get an hour or so to go outside and gut the cabinet. I got everything out and started to clean out the cabinet. I also manged to pick up some bondo.

On the weekend I hope to get some of the body work done, as well as paint some of the metal parts with a fresh coat of black.

Can anyone suggest a grit of sandpaper ideal to use on the metal parts ? The coin door has a decent amount of rust on it.

Second question, when fixing the back of the cabinet the missing back door caused some major damage. With the wood so thin its damaged in multiple places. To fix it I was thinking of perhaps clamping a 2"x4" wrapped in plastic down the length of the cabinet. Then trying to use the bondo to do the repair.

Any better ideas, tips, tricks ?

 

[mike boss]

Just a few more pics of the cabinet cleaned up.
I'm really looking forward to getting this project started.
Here you can see the coin door is in bad shape.

I should say, I've seen some amazing projects all over the web. Some really top shelf DK projects. The quality of the work, the time, the MONEY spent, WOW !

I don't want to cut corners, I want a good looking cabinet on a decent budget. So things like getting the coin door powder coated simply wont work for me. A few nice coats of paint, sure.

So I warn you guys, some of what I'll do might seem like a tragedy. So I apologize now !

Question 3, I see some sites selling Nintendo bolts. Did Nintendo cabinets use bolts that you cant find in your local hardware store ? Odd lengths or something ?

 

[xxstatic]

That coin door looks pretty straight, I'd give it a good scrub to clear any rusty spots, then paint it how you see fit.
I painted mine with Rustoleum hammered black finish, kinda looks grayish in direct sunlight but inside it looks nice and black as it should.

I started with two cabs and they became one when I was done, the original was a fiberboard cab that was disintegrating, I found another plywood cab in solid shape but needed a full paint and body resto.

Fiberboard cab:

The donor plywood cab:

And my finished project:

On the bolt's I don't think they are off the hardware shelf sizes, I know Mikes Arcade sell's some bolt packages.

Good luck and enjoy yourself in the process

 

[mike boss]

Nice looking DK, congrats !
I appreciate the info.
I've become quite the spray paint master these days having really good results on two of the three bartops I did. (www.mymissiontomame.blogspot.com) I used Krylon paint and the colors just pop ! All be it I've even used some cheaper black paint that Wal-Mart has in a semi-gloss and also got good results. I was thinking of giving that a shot on the metal parts.
The speaker grill & lil part inside where the control panel goes I don't care so much about. However I want the brackets to look awesome. Also the coin door, it has to look awesome. I'll give it a shot and post the results.

Can any suggest a grit of sandpaper I should use on the metal that would remove the rust but not really damage or scratch to sh*t out of the metal ?

The idea for this cabinet is to MAME it. I'd like to try my luck with Instant Sheller, as well as try MALA for the 1st time. I know John's Arcade has a cool menu for MALA. I might be getting my hands on a 20" widescreen monitor for this project....fingers crossed!
None the less I had an opinion question with respects to a bezel. Has anyone ever tied foamboard as a bezel ? I was thinking to try a sheet of that for my bezel, as well as an additional piece in the back of the cabinet to replace the cardboard currently inside.

Thanks for reading and thanks for the input I value every answer.

 

[2percenter]

I have used a wire brush drill bit thing to get rust off. It can get into the pits better than paper can and clear out the corrosion.

 

[xxstatic]

I have used a wire brush drill bit thing to get rust off. It can get into the pits better than paper can and clear out the corrosion.

Dead on ^

I don't think I used any sand paper on any of my metal parts, biggest thing to worry about is dent's and such, but if your good with the bondo you can get them straightened out too.
Krylon is good stuff, my game is not going to see a lot of use or ever be put on a location as long as I own it so I don't see the coin door getting any abuse whatsoever that maybe a powder-coat would be a necessity.

 

[OldTymeToys]

I painted mine with Rustoleum hammered black finish, kinda looks grayish in direct sunlight but inside it looks nice and black as it should.

I have used a wire brush drill bit thing to get rust off. It can get into the pits better than paper can and clear out the corrosion.

I've also had good results with this method. Like X-man said, it's not going on location or taking a ton of abuse.

Good luck with it all!

 

[mike boss]

Thanks guys, as I said I value all the input.
Always looking for info,solutions,suggestions,etc.
I'm hoping when I check the mail today my CPO and lower bracket are in. I just need to track down a reasonably priced marquee.

My local printer will do the CP underlay, IE instruction card.
Same as the sticker below the monitor.

Still excited. Going to hit the hardware store tonight to pick up some needed parts. I'll try the drill trick.

 

[OldTymeToys]

Harbor Freight always has deals. Here's a wire wheel & cup bit set for $3.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-wire-wheel-and-cup-brush-set-1341.html

 

[delroy666]

Princess Auto always has deals. Here's a wire wheel & cup bit set for $6.99: http://www.princessauto.com/tools/p...cessories/3410502-3-pc-brass-coated-brush-set

There, fixed that for you. (translated into Canadian for the OP)

 

[mike boss]

That's awesome ! Thanks for posting the Canadian link.
Tonight I'm off to Lowes to see if I can get some 5/8" MDF for the control panel and back door (I think the back door was 5/8"). I also planned on getting the 1"x4" for the base. So I'll just go down to Princess and get the brush set also.

Thanks

PS - So if all goes well Saturday I try my hand at Bondo.....I'm hoping it all goes well !

 

[mike boss]

I broke two toes, which sucks! Not to mention that fact that it was raining in Ajax (Ontario, Canada) today. The combination of the toe and rain made certain work on the project a no go. However I was dead set on going out and getting some parts. I had obtained some measurements for a DK JR control panel. However I'm glad I took the time to measure my metal DK 3 control panel cause it was slightly different. The measurements for the DK JR required 5/8" MDF, where as the DK3 was 1/2" MDF. None the less I got out to princess auto and picked up a body filler kit, some sandpaper, and the wire brush set (thanks again!). Upon leaving I noticed one on sale in the flyer, note to self..........look at the flyer when going into the store.....not leaving! Anyway I didn't turn back, I went across the street to Rona and picked up a 24"x48" sheet of 1/2" MDF. I had the DK 3 panel with me and the guy at Rona cut it down for me. I'll use the extra to complete my long overdue Bartop cabinet project. The backdoor for the cabinet I'm going to wait on since I'll need a full sheet of MDF for that, I'm in no rush. The only issue I have with the 1/2 MDF is going to installing the t-molding. I found a site from China I'm dealing with and they sell 100M of 16mm white t-molding for CHEAP! That would fit nicely on the 5/8" MDF. With the 1/2" I'm sorta at a loss. The only thing I can think of is installing it and having it hang a lil low...which I don't think would be bad ?

Perhaps tomorrow I'll try my hand at the bondo.
I picked up some dusk masks, will that be sufficient ? Or should I look for a respirator type mask ?



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[mike boss]

Speding Update :

Donkey Kong Jr Cabinet $75
including Bezel, monitor, DK 3 CP &
upper marquee bracket

Donkey Kong Jr CPO + $35
lower marquee bracket (shipped)

Bondo $12

Delivery $0

Control Panel (0.5" MDF) cut $10

Bondo Kit/Sand Paper/Wire Brush $29
Paint Roller + Extra Rollers/Glue

Light (18" Home Depot) $13

Plastic Polish $15

Spray Paint x 4 $12

Art Work (local print shop) $5

Orange Paint $20

Wood base, rubber feet, $10
screws & bolts

Side Art $50

20" Samsung LCD Monitor + $122
New PC Speakers

t-molding (Ebay) $15

Total: $423

I sold the monitor from this cabinet for $150.
I also designed a custom MaLa layout for someone for $15.
That covered my t-molding. If I look at it like that it makes
the cabinet $258 ! SWEET !

 

[delroy666]

Perhaps tomorrow I'll try my hand at the bondo.
I picked up some dusk masks, will that be sufficient ? Or should I look for a respirator type mask ?

A dust mask is better than nothing, but for me at least, they don't seal well around the nose area and let in dust there. If you're going to be doing any more than just a small repair, I would suggest getting a respirator. Again, Princess Auto to the rescue - they have a few different ones starting at $15:

http://www.princessauto.com/garage/safety/breathing/8305328-p100-1/2-mask-respirator

I don't have a PA near me, so I got this one from Crappy Tire (which is actually made by 3M):

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...al%2BRespirator%2BFilter%2BMask.jsp?locale=en

I use it when spray painting, sanding, doing drywall jobs, Bondoing, etc. and it's great. Bondo vapours are some crazy shit, so if you get a respirator that absorbs vapours as well as dust it makes the hallucinations less intense.

 

[mike boss]

Thanks again for the tips. It's raining again today so I don't think any work over and above a good cleaning of the cabinet will get done. I've joined the "I can't win club" I'm proud to announce. I got home with all my goodies, wire wheel brush included. Went downstairs to charge up the drill and presto ! The charged doesn't work. Hop on the website and I don't see a replacement. THIS BLOWS !

Anyway I think I'll duck out to Canadian Tire get that respirator and look for a new charger for my drill. When I was out yesterday I forgot to get the 1"x4" for my DK JR base. Does anyone know if Home Depot would cut that down for me and miter the corners ? Or am I pressing my luck ?

Again thanks

 

[mike boss]

New Control Panel Cut

Test fitting of the new control panel.
Fits great, lil gap at each side, but no different then the DK3 was.



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[mike boss]

I'd like to thank Eric ( qbass187) for giving me a great deal on my DK JR Cpo and Lower Marquee Bracket. Everything arrived today packaged well and was in pristine shape. I thank you very much sir ! Your help is greatly appreciated. I'm excited to make some major progress this weekend.

 

[mike boss]

Paint & Prep

A few questions as I begin work on the cabinet this weekend.
Should I do the overall sanding of the cabinet (in preperation for paint)
after I apply the Bondo ? Or do my first sanding, apply Bondo, then
sand off the Bondo ?

For the initial sanding what grit of sandpaper would be ideal ?

As far as primer goes I have extra Behr flat latex paint that I
used in the house. Should I use that or get a true primer ?

Lastly, for the inside and visable parts of the cabinet that will be painted
black should I use a flat paint or semi-gloss ? And also with respects to
the black paint, the control panel, upper and lower brackets flat or gloss ?

 

[delroy666]

I would sand the whole cabinet first. This will allow the Bondo to stick better when you apply it to the spots that need repair. Are you going to sand off that red paint, or just scuff it and paint over?

For Bondo I start with 100 or 150 to remove material, then finish off with 220 to make it smooth.

Get a true primer, don't use that latex paint as a base. A can of 'real' primer like Killz, Zinnser, or even CIL or CT Premier will be much better, and are only about $12 a quart.

For the inside black parts, I used Tremclad semi-gloss in a rattle can and it looks fantastic. (it's more like a satin finish than semi-gloss) I didn't have to repaint my DK Jr. marquee brackets, but they look pretty glossy to me.