Midway (Spy Hunter) Control Panel Studs Broken - Replacement Advice Needed

Anthony605

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I am in the process of restoring a Spy Hunter. I stripped the control panel down today. Two of the welded controller studs were broken. Someone tried to monkey the controller back in the wrong way! Anyway, I am pretty sure that I can drill out the old studs and replace them with new ones. Does anyone know where to get these? Or does anyone have any totally trashed Midway panels that I can cut them out of? I attached some pics to show exactly what I am talking about. Thank you!
 

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Those look like self-clinching studs - probably 10-32 thread. If you can confirm the length, most likely you can get them from McMaster-Carr.

You can carefully use a punch to remove the remains of the old ones. However, for installation of the new studs, I recommend an arbor press if you can gain access to one. A drill press can also be used. The point is that installation requires a lot of force, but applied gradually - in other words - not an impact with a hammer and punch. They are designed for the base metal to cold flow around the splines on the fastener. Also - provide a backup (reinforcement) of some type beneath the base material - so it does not get distorted and deformed while pressing. This could consist of something like a 3/8" thick piece of steel with a hole drilled for the stud.
 
The fact that there is wood going over it and a slight concave surface, a little bit of novice level welding would do . Or you can counter sink some flat head machine screws through the other side .
Neither of these will work without wrecking the CPO though.
 
The CPO is getting replaced so that is not an issue. @Arcade2007 , they may be the self clinching studs. I will measure the length tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get the old ones out without doing much damage.
 
I made some progress today. I was able to get the broken ones out with a punch without messing up the panel itself. It bent a tiny bit but I don't care about that because I normally body fill control panels before applying the CPO. Anyway, it looks like the studs are not press fit. They are tacked in! I attached some pics. I do know that the studs are 1 inch long 10-32 studs. @Arcade2007 or anyone else know what these studs are called? Thanks again!
 

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I made some progress today. I was able to get the broken ones out with a punch without messing up the panel itself. It bent a tiny bit but I don't care about that because I normally body fill control panels before applying the CPO. Anyway, it looks like the studs are not press fit. They are tacked in! I attached some pics. I do know that the studs are 1 inch long 10-32 studs. @Arcade2007 or anyone else know what these studs are called? Thanks again!
Told ya, you had to weld them. I got two panels with the same thing .
One had all 4 broken, and had carriage bolts through the top . I thought that was the way they were built until I took my parts one and original apart to combine better parts.
The good one had only one broken off so I'm using that until I fix the original ( for fun and to have all four studs in place ) .
I'm just going to find slightly longer bolts with the same threads and cut to length. Then tack them in .
 
Sounds good. Just have to find something with a head thin enough that can be tacked and be slightly below the recess where the bolt goes. This way I can body fill over it and have a perfectly flat panel.
 
The closest I can find are these from Grainger - which are 1-1/16 in length.

As you are suggesting - a body shop stud welder, in the hands of a competent technician, can likely be used to spot weld the replacements.
 
Yeah, I think those will work. Just depends how think the flat top is. If it is too thick, it will be higher than the flat portion of the control panel. There is a Grainger near me so I can always check them out. I also messaged Takeman as he is the control panel "master"!
 
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