Melted yoke k7203

Motoman202

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Picked up a k7203 that has a melted yoke. I have another k7000 yoke to swap out but what should I check before attempting to power this up? Melted yoke windings meter ok with no dead shorts. 15.3 on one side 2.5 on the other. Possible some other heat source not related to this caused it but would like to see if there are any preliminary checks to do before power is applied. Nothing obviously burnt on the chassis.
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My guess would be a necked tube. Spark shower inside the neck melted the yoke.
Tube looks fine. At least at first inspection. I haven't looked super close for hairline cracks but it's definitely not necked
 
Well something caused the inside of the tube to get very hot, which melted that yoke. It wasn't too much current in the yoke itself, as that would have blown a fuse, and/or melted the windings before the plastic. So it looks to have come from inside the tube. And there are only a certain number of things that could be:

- Internal arcing
- Too much voltage on the heater (from something outside of the tube driving it too hard)
- Internal short driving too much current where it shouldn't have gone

If you don't have a tube tester, you could tone out the heater and then tone out all other grids to each other and the heater, to see if there are any shorts between anything.

Beyond that, you could just power it up while watching the neck and keeping your finger on the power switch, to kill power immediately if something is wrong. This is how I bring up every monitor I rebuild, as there's usually a difference between killing power instantly, versus letting a broken monitor run until it nukes itself. You might still have damage, but you'll have a lot less if you kill the power as soon as you see that something isn't right.
 
I think 15.3 vertical is kind of high. the only way you'll know is if you try it. like andrewb says, be ready to kill power immediately if something is wrong.
 
Well something caused the inside of the tube to get very hot, which melted that yoke. It wasn't too much current in the yoke itself, as that would have blown a fuse, and/or melted the windings before the plastic. So it looks to have come from inside the tube. And there are only a certain number of things that could be:

- Internal arcing
- Too much voltage on the heater (from something outside of the tube driving it too hard)
- Internal short driving too much current where it shouldn't have gone

If you don't have a tube tester, you could tone out the heater and then tone out all other grids to each other and the heater, to see if there are any shorts between anything.

Beyond that, you could just power it up while watching the neck and keeping your finger on the power switch, to kill power immediately if something is wrong. This is how I bring up every monitor I rebuild, as there's usually a difference between killing power instantly, versus letting a broken monitor run until it nukes itself. You might still have damage, but you'll have a lot less if you kill the power as soon as you see that something isn't right.
Good stuff and thank you. And I don't be same when powering up a monitor usually while squinting my eyes and hoping nothing blows up. I will hopefully get to this over the weekend and I'll report back with my findings. Would be a bummer if the tube is shot as it's burn free. I do have a tube tester but it's older and doesn't have cr23 or cr31 sockets. Jacklick did a good video on it and shows how to make sockets that will work I just haven't had the time to study his video and work through it, maybe this is a good reason to look into that.
 
You don't really need the right sockets to use a tube tester. You can just make a 'universal' adapter that breaks each of the signals out to a grabber hook, then manually clip each signal to the correct pin on the tube, per the schematics. It takes a little more time, but it frees you from needing to have or make the correct adapters.

I've done this for monitors in old b/w games I have where the neck socket was broken or just missing. I just put grabber hooks on all of the leads coming from the deflection board, and clipped them to the correct pins of the tube. The same will work with a tester.

 
Well I actually got to this sooner than the weekend lol. Put the new yoke on and fired it up and nothing. No neck glow and no HV. Fuse ok, well at least it didn't catch on fire.

All test points are dead no voltage
And there is a steady clicking like the igniter on a gas stove, no visible arcing. I can't tell exactly where it's coming from but it kind of sounds like it's coming from the transformer
 
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