Megatouch Radion Force - Tatung C5GNEKC Monitor help

dpalmi

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Megatouch Radion Force - Tatung C5GNEKC Monitor help

Hello all!

I need your help/advice....

I know nothing about fixing monitors but know my way around other electronic items and I am very comfortable with a soldering iron...

I have a Megatouch Radion Force that the Tatung C5GNEKC CRT monitor has stopped working. I have confirmed the issue is the monitor and not the Megatouch itself.

Symptoms: There is no picture on the monitor. The monitor is powering on and powering off. There is a green light on the remote control board that turns on and goes out as long as there is power. It cycles on/off/on/off/etc. There is a relay click sound when this happens on the main board. You can also here the normal "buzz" sound when the power comes on. Nothing displays on the screen at any time. Prior to this issue the monitor looked great and had no issues.

I looked at the main board and I can see there is a yellow square capacitor right next to the flyback transformer that the magic smoke escaped from and looks like it is melted and burned. I found a schematic on-line and I think it might be C480.

Might just replacing this capacitor fix the issue?

I know that some monitor issues can be fixed with a cap kit. I would be willing to give that a try. But if the costs/work get much higher than that, I would probably just pull the monitor out altogether and replace it with a LCD monitor.

I also happen to have a fully working identical Megatouch that I can use to test parts if need be...

How do I go about narrowing down the bad parts? I know I have a capacitor that is melted, do I just identify it, buy a new one and solder it in?

Pictures...
The first picture is what my Megatouch looks like.
The second picture is what the burnt capacitor looks like in my good machine.
The third and fourth picuture are the burnt capacitor.
The fourth picture is a schemtic I found.

Thanks!

Dan
 

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If you have another megatouch that is identical, I would start by swapiing just that board first. If it turns out thats only that board is bad, then you can either replace the board or try replacing the yellow capacitor and looks like two resistors were burned up aswell judging by the pics of the working board i assume?

BTW, If what you circles in the schematic is correct, then the C480 looks to be a 0.1 UF 100v Capacitor and those R480 and R481 are the two resistors but I cant make out there ohms. Best would be to take a really close up pic of the resistors and the working board and look up the color band code to get the correct ohms. They look to be 1/4 watt.
 
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I'd have the flyback tested while you have it out....if i remember correctly, I had the same thing and the fly was gone with that same cap.
 
I'd have the flyback tested while you have it out....if i remember correctly, I had the same thing and the fly was gone with that same cap.

Is the flyback something I can test myself? If so, what are the steps to test it? I do have a DMM and know how to use it.

Thanks!

Dan
 
Cap

If you have another megatouch that is identical, I would start by swapiing just that board first. If it turns out thats only that board is bad, then you can either replace the board or try replacing the yellow capacitor and looks like two resistors were burned up aswell judging by the pics of the working board i assume?

BTW, If what you circles in the schematic is correct, then the C480 looks to be a 0.1 UF 100v Capacitor and those R480 and R481 are the two resistors but I cant make out there ohms. Best would be to take a really close up pic of the resistors and the working board and look up the color band code to get the correct ohms. They look to be 1/4 watt.


Replace the cap with the used one
check the ohms the resistors and compare to schematic
clean off any carbon from parts or pcb with acetone cleaner
make sure none left on board or around burn holes in pcb
power up if cap starts to burn up replace the fly.
more then likely the cap has failed and just burned up
one its own and may have damaged the resistors.
if they measure around the ohms on schematic then just clean
them off and replace just the cap,then test again.
and subout the fly with another used one
with the other chassis if needed.
Good Luck!
 
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