Med Res WG K7000 - Shaky Picture

ScumBum

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I have a Med Res WG K7000 with a slightly shaky picture . Gave it a cap kit hoping to fix the problem but its still there . Other than that the picture looks really good and bright . Is it probably cold solder joints some where ? Any idea where to look ?
 
My K7602 was doing the same thing, even after a cap kit. I had a slight buzzing in mine that turned out to be a bad flyback too. I'm awaiting a replacement and am hoping that the new flyback will help clear up the slight wavey/shakiness.

Is your flyback buzzing or anything?
 
My K7602 was doing the same thing, even after a cap kit. I had a slight buzzing in mine that turned out to be a bad flyback too. I'm awaiting a replacement and am hoping that the new flyback will help clear up the slight wavey/shakiness.

Is your flyback buzzing or anything?



Not sure what you mean by buzzing , do you mean making a noise ?

The flyback seems ok, but it is the one with the white knobs and I've heard those are crap .

Let me know if replacing the flyback fixes your problem .
 
Measure out the B+. If it's high it'll produce sporatic jittering. Also add another ground from power supply to mintor chassis.
 
Try wiggling or applying pressure to the control pots. I recently had to replace 5 out of the 6 pots on a K7000 remote board because of issues like this. Applying pressure made it worse. Replacing made it go away....
 
Thanks for all the help so far guys !

I haven't checked the B+ yet but I will soon .

This chassis doesn't have the remote board , if that makes a difference , but I wiggled all the pots and that didn't seem to effect anything .

Now there is a cap here in this picture that is not on the actual board , its on this thing here to the left of the flyback . What is this thing the cap is connected to ? Should I replace this cap ?



MedRes3.jpg
 
Sure, if you want. I'd pull that solder braid out of there, too, but that's just me... :001_shappy:
 
Sure, if you want. I'd pull that solder braid out of there, too, but that's just me... :001_shappy:

Ha ! You have eyes like a hawk !

Ok I'll replace that cap today and see what happens . I went to radio shack yesterday to see if they had it but they had a lame ass selection . I found the one I needed in another cap kit I haven't installed yet . The only thing I'm a little unsure about is the old cap on the monitor says its a 22uf 100v but the 22 is spaced far apart like 2 2 . Not sure if that means anything . I looked really close to make sure its not a 2.2 but I didn't see a dot between the 2 2 .
 
Replaced that cap , but it didn't fix the shake . So the last thing I'll do is check the B+ then leave it because it doesn't interfere with the game play and its not that noticeable , just annoys me .
 
I replaced my flyback and the shakes are still there.

Not enough to ruin gameplay, but just annoying, like you said. Other than that, the picture looks great now that is has new caps and flyback.
 
I replaced my flyback and the shakes are still there.

Not enough to ruin gameplay, but just annoying, like you said. Other than that, the picture looks great now that is has new caps and flyback.

Shoot , sounds like a common problem with these monitors if both of us have it .

Well , not sure what to do now, so probably just leave it before I continue to screw with it and mess something up .

Is your monitor in a Narc as well ?
 
Which way is it shaking? Replace that hold pot, center pot, and size pot - if it has one...
 
Which way is it shaking? Replace that hold pot, center pot, and size pot - if it has one...

Thanks for the tip .

Its hard to tell which way its shaking ,

Its not really obvious when your looking at the center of the screen but when looking at the left and right side edges you can see the picture is not steady but is in a constant slight shake . Come to think of it I'm not sure if the top and bottom of the screen shake . I'll check it tomorrow .
 
shake

Something to try... if you are running your video sync wire to both the -v and -h connections, try running sync to only the -h.

You may also want to check the value of r101 6.8k@3w and change c23 47uf@25v.
It could also be a flaky IC2 (la7823)
 
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Super necro-bump but there are a handful of threads about this issue and none of them have a solution. Recently was fighting this exact issue on a medium res K7000 and after exhausting all other efforts/options, I replaced the vertical IC and the issue went away. IC3. Thought it might have been Q4, Q5, Q9, IC1, IC2, flyback, voltage regulator, bad solder joints, bad resistors, bad AC input, bad isolation transformer, etc. Nothing made it better or worse until I replaced IC3. Problem solved. Posting this so at least one of these threads has a solution.
 
Cool !!

I don't even remember posting this thread .

I do remember owning a Narc .

Its fun reading posts I don't remember posting .
 
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