MCR PS conversion kit in an EDOT?

jonathan1138

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Hi all - on the Arcade shop site, i have used the MCR power supply conversion kit on a SH cockpit and Tron cab - works great. I have an EDOT on the way in - not sure of what i am up against, but the cab has been sitting for years, so i expect PS board damage.

Arcade shop lists their PS conversion kit for UPRIGHT DOT but not Environmental version - anyone know if this kit would work on an EDOT? If not, why?

Thanks.
 
PS - my alternative would be to use a 20412 power supply board, if anyone has one working, i would take that so PM me on it. Thats a good alternative!
 
edot

This will not work in a edot its not enough power
This is one where you need to rebuild both the power brick and the main power board
save your self a ton of time money and trouble
 
I've used one of the earlier series MCR switching adapters in my EDOT which works just fine with a couple of caveats. The power brick is obviously still needed to power the monitor and lights, the adapter just powers the main 3 board sandwich, iirc you need to run a separate -5v and gnd to the 3 pin connector to the Squawk and Talk board from the switcher. There was one A/C output I still needed from the old PSU for the lights to function correctly, other than that it works just fine. I decided to use the switcher to preserve the MCR board from any future issues (and it also provides the battery backup voltages as well). The switcher you use has to be pretty beefy on the ampage side. I'll dig out more information if you want to go this route. I really should have documented it, just never got around to it...

Dan
 
Thanks Dan. I guess i will just wait for the EDOT to get over here before i decide- if its in ok shape without much batt. damage i will rebuild it. Otherwise, i will do a WTB, and last resort will to ask for your assistance on how to use the kit in this application.

Will report next week on the likely path to take....
 
Hi - Tried to repair the PS that i have now, but, not having much success. The first problem i have is that i tried to replace J4 / J5 on the PS board, but upon lifting the molex connectors out, trace pads easily lifted under the housing (they were rotted from battery acid anyway). I am not sure if this PS will work.

I am considering the arcade shop solution now.

Dan, going to PM you for more details - I guess i need some instruction on how to run the -5 and gnd to the S&T and the lighting AC wiring as you noted?

Thanks.

PS (no pun intended!) - before i try this - anyone have a working / tested PS? I can just try that before i go the arcade shop route.

Thanks.
 
Sorry to drag up and old post but I've had quite a few PM's (including one yesterday) asking about the mod required to use a switcher with EDOT and have the fluorescents work so I thought I'd just post it here for anyone else who might need it in future. I got mine working with a Wizzies Workshop MCR adapter but I'd assume the same would hold true for the ArcadeShop one now. YMMV.

So first things first. Make sure you have a powerful switch mode power supply. EDOT has a lot of pcbs and draws a lot of power especially over old wiring, I can't recall the exact specs of the one I used but use something with some guts, the install instructions for the adapter have some useful recommendations iirc.

To install it, I connected up the adapter as you would for any other MCR game but added some extra wires from the switcher for the -5v supply needed for the Squawk and Talk board. I added a 3 pin connector and plugged it in to the original wiring that comes out of the -5 auxiliary PSU. With this the game PCB's will run fine and you should have all the sounds including Sark chatting away but the flashing fluorescents won't work.

For the flashing problem, it took me a very long time to figure it out and find. Basically the Flashing Fluorescent PCB seems to still need a strange output from the original power supply which a switch mode PSU isn't ever going to be able to generate (as far as I can tell). It's not very well documented on the schematics hence to time it took to find it. You need to make sure that pin 14 of the power supply board (CONN 4 15 pins on the schematics) is still connected. This eventually goes into pin 10 on the Flasher Control PCB. On the main power wiring diagram in the schematics it's just noted as "S", which isn't very helpful. On the Flashing Fluorescent schematic pin 10 is shown as "A.C Sync" and is used as an input to a 4050 IC. I believe that it's used to control the timing of the pulse to the fluorescent lamps so that it's in sync with the AC phase, I'd guess it's to time when the AC is positive or something like that. I used an extractor tool on the loom (so that it can go back as it was if needed) and just plugged that single wire into Pin 14 and voila the lights are flashing again.

I'd love to have the time to work out what this A.C Sync is and how to replace it with a switch mode supply but time is too short these days.

Anyway, hope it's useful to someone and just to reiterate - this worked for me. YMMV :)

Dan
 
do an extensive rebuild of your original power supply and keep the game original in my opinion. i also do make the complete rebuild kits with all connectors, etc.
 
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