MCR Power Supply:Fix, Repair, Adapt?

ThisOldGame

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2007
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
609
Location
Fairfield, Iowa
That is the question.
So what would you do?

Replace the orginal?
Repair the orginal?
ArcadeShop Adapter?

Anyone use the ArcadeShop MCR PS adapters??
trying to decide if I should replace the PS in my Journey
and proably eventually in all my other MCR games
 
A lot would have to do with how much corrosion is on the original. If it's really nice with no acid damage, I would repair it. Journey is a pretty rare game, would be cool to see it stay original.
 
All my MCRs have the linear supply. I won't replace them with switchers just because. I just made sure to remove the batteries, clean up any acid damage, replace electrolytic caps and any corroded headers. I have had luck with shotgunning, except for one which I replaced with the Arcadeshop adapter and sold to a local arcade. They tell me it has been working fine since they got it. I still have the original board and will repair it when I get around to it.
 
All my MCRs have the linear supply. I won't replace them with switchers just because. I just made sure to remove the batteries, clean up any acid damage, replace electrolytic caps and any corroded headers. I have had luck with shotgunning, except for one which I replaced with the Arcadeshop adapter and sold to a local arcade. They tell me it has been working fine since they got it. I still have the original board and will repair it when I get around to it.

Heh, I'm the opposite. None of my MCR games have their linear supplies. I use the adapters from ArcadeShop.com and have never had a problem. And if there is no acid damage to the originals I leave them in place "just in case".
 
I had a switcher in my Tapper (it came with it) and I removed it. The hum was driving me mad. I have originals in my Domino Man, Tapper, and Tron. I refuse to use the switcher. However, the only game that is saving scores is the Tron. I used a cordless phone battery in that one. On the Tapper and Domino Man I tried the lithium battery and neither works. :( So, I plan on reversing that and putting phone batteries in those too. I guess that's one nice benefit of the switching power supply kit, the high score save.
 
I think I have 1 of the arcadeshop kits sitting in a box for a rainy day.

I like the originals, I clean them up of acid, and replace parts and re use. I have to say the hum doesn't bother me from the arcadeshop kit. It was in my tapper, 1 of the trons, my buddy has a switcher in his spyhunter (mine is original) There may even be one in my wacko, i can't remember.
 
Not sure why some people get hum while others don't but I have to say I've never heard any hum. I buy brand new power supplies when I install these kits so maybe that's why? I dunno, but I do know I like having newer supplies in my games.
 
Not sure why some people get hum while others don't but I have to say I've never heard any hum. I buy brand new power supplies when I install these kits so maybe that's why? I dunno, but I do know I like having newer supplies in my games.


Ive always wondered this as well.
My Tron all original has a real bad hum (I suspect its more with the amp)
My Wacko has a Switcher hacked in :( but theres no hum.

Theres no acid damage to my Journey PS yet...and its pretty clean.
And Im more like ArcRivial on this one about keeping this orginal.
(did I just say that out loud?) :D

though the mod for changing out the cassete is still in the works
 
The only MCR game that seems to consistently have a hum with a switcher is spy hunter. That would be the only one I would never want to use a switcher. As for the others I prefer original but as long as it's running and works correctly I'm not gonna complain.
 
I bought one of those adapters when they first came out and had it forever before using it in a Tron with a corroded PS. It's not a bad way to go IF your original is wasted, but if your original is nice, I think it looks a lot cooler when you open up the game and do not have a modern PS in there standing out like a sore thumb. Keep that Journey original. You won't regret it. Bob's kit is pretty nice for rebuilding it but also make sure you replace the harness side connectors and pins ( especially the ones that plug into the lower end of the board when its mounted in the game). A lot of times those pins in there are corroded and green.

Also make sure to replace the pots. I had a Tron I was repairing and clipped on to the capacitor on the motherboard to check the +5 and watched as it spiked like crazy from +5.10 to 5.6 etc continuously , I replaced the pots and it was solid again at wherever I set it. I would encourage anyone running an original to actually clip on and measure their +5 instead of just taking a quick "snapshot" of where the voltage at the motherboard is. Make sure the +5 pot is working correctly.
 
What makes me chuckle is people will replace artwork and not think twice about it but when it comes to a power supply... they'd rather keep it original.

Just an observation is all. :D
 
What makes me chuckle is people will replace artwork and not think twice about it but when it comes to a power supply... they'd rather keep it original.

Just an observation is all. :D

yeah I can see that and I am sure we would all prefer NOS artwork, but that is virtually impossible. Rebuilding boards is feasible.
 
i'm a fan of both - i say that as i prefer the original, but the 90412 in my satan's hollow was fucked and had a ton of acid damage, so i threw the original non arcadeshop adaptor with a switcher in it. however, the 90412 in my tron got a bob roberts shotgun kit and works well. personally, i've had to add a cap to the switcher to reduce the hum in satan's hollow, but it works. i do prefer the 90412 though, and wouldn't get another adaptor unless there was no other way.
 
What makes me chuckle is people will replace artwork and not think twice about it but when it comes to a power supply... they'd rather keep it original.

Just an observation is all. :D

a repro tapper CPO doesn't hum. :)
 
yeah I can see that and I am sure we would all prefer NOS artwork, but that is virtually impossible. Rebuilding boards is feasible.

BUT, half the artwork I see get replaced around here is absolutely fine imho. People really are anal about needing things to look perfect(which is great for Rich!). ;) I just thinks it's funny is all. To me it's way more important to have my games functioning great so I can play them.
 
My thought is to rebuild the original 90412 if it's "rebuildable". Otherwise, by the adaptor and install a switcher. I prefer original PS when they can be made solid, since I actually like playing my games (my Williams games have rebuild linears too).

Scott C.
 
BUT, half the artwork I see get replaced around here is absolutely fine imho. People really are anal about needing things to look perfect(which is great for Rich!). ;) I just thinks it's funny is all. To me it's way more important to have my games functioning great so I can play them.

Same here. That's why I'm wondering if there are long term longevity and/or cost concerns with keeping the original power supply in.

My thought is to rebuild the original 90412 if it's "rebuildable". Otherwise, by the adaptor and install a switcher. I prefer original PS when they can be made solid, since I actually like playing my games (my Williams games have rebuild linears too).

Scott C.

My Williams cabinets have to be able to run a multitude different games PCBs, so a switcher would be my best bet.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Back
Top Bottom