MCR power supplies

NEGAMES

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Hi I know everyone tells me not to use a switching power supplies on these type of games because they cause a hum in audio. I have four games know that these have stoped working all together or are what I think is causing me sound problems.

1. satans hollow- not showing any sign of life at all boards tested in another good power supply and working.

2. Demolition derby- was working with a loud hum now also dead no sigs of life tested with another power supply and working.

3. Tron- was working then went to garbage on the screen tested with good power supply and working fine.

4. Root beer Tapper- plays fine but audio not working. I have not tested with different power supply yet.


So does anybody rebuild these old MCR or what is my best option?
 
Rebuilding them is great...do it if you want. However, I have Arcadeshop switchers in my Tron, Upright Discs of Tron, and Journey...no hum in any of them.
 
yeah I have one in my tron, but an original power supply in my wacko and discs of tron.
I have a rebuilt power supply to put back in my tron. But........if I ever get the urge or the time to make a WR attempt at tron I will use the switcher to play it safe.
My experience with tapper is that you need to test the +5 at a ram chip leg or you will get weird stuff happening if it's low. (I'm not an expert)
I have put a switcher with kit in a tapper and it worked great.


Anyone here could rebuild your power supply boards, you could too I bet. If you were against doing it yourself and wanted someone else to do it, it would probably cost you $30+ per board plus parts. Making it a cheaper alternative to get the switcher.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I was thinking more of the switcher option first off anyways. I had just heard stories of a humming caused from them. But it appears that several members are using them and are happy. So thank you for the help I can always rebuild the origanal ones at a later time.
 
Too bad no one mentioned that to me in this thread:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=200335

Before I decided to get one via Ebay:
www.ebay.com/itm/150686345466

:(

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The pcb in that auction is for your machine's audio; it has nothing to do with the power supply. And you received good advice in that other thread - the op in this thread is going to be posting back here in about a week or two wondering why his machine has such a loud hum....
 
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The pcb in that auction is for your machine's audio; it has nothing to do with the power supply. And you received good advice in that other thread - the op in this thread is going to be posting back here in about a week or two wondering why his machine has such a loud hum....

Wrong auction. The correct one is here: www.ebay.com/itm/120768956313

And Jedidentist has Arcadeshop switchers in three MCR games with no hum problem.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Wrong auction. The correct one is here: www.ebay.com/itm/120768956313

And Jedidentist has Arcadeshop switchers in three MCR games with no hum problem.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I had an Arcadeshop switcher in my Spy Hunter for about 30 minutes before I couldn't take the hum anymore and pulled it. Spy Hunter is the worst for the hum.

And that seller has no freaking clue as to what he's selling. It's labelled at least 3 different things.
 
Everyone points to Spy Hunter as being the worst of them all. I thought I read that you can also get rid of the hum by placing a cap or something in line? In any case, rebuilding it will actually be slightly cheaper. By the time you buy the adapter and switcher and pay for shipping, you can almost be out $85. There are oodles of threads out there on this issue and they all have the same discussions/arguments.
 
Everyone points to Spy Hunter as being the worst of them all. I thought I read that you can also get rid of the hum by placing a cap or something in line? In any case, rebuilding it will actually be slightly cheaper. By the time you buy the adapter and switcher and pay for shipping, you can almost be out $85. There are oodles of threads out there on this issue and they all have the same discussions/arguments.

You can rebuild an original for much cheaper. I'm all for replacing the original terrible design when you must (I'm talking about you, Taito), but if you can fix the original, it's along the same lines as having an original PCB, a CRT monitor, etc.. the goal is keeping the original hardware working - authenticity. Sure, the p/s just delivers power, but hell, if you can fix a monitor, you can fix a p/s. The MCR board isn't bad, if you don't have the battery corrosion. Biggest issue is 25yr old caps.
 
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