MCR III Power Board Cap/Rebuild Kit?

CharlesDeMar

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Hi,

I'm looking to purchase a cap/rebuild kit for the MCR III power board in my Spyhunter UR cabinet. Does anyone know who sells these? I would prefer to rebuild the old power board if possible. Bob Roberts sells them, but he is currently not taking orders. Anyone else out there sell these?

Thanks in advance.
 
it's seriously a handful of caps you could get from Mouser. maybe even GPE may have them. if you want to pay triple for a "kit" when you could've bought 5 caps at like 30-60 cents a piece, have at it.
 
Ha! Good point. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any important ones (transistors, etc). I did find a pretty comprehensive list on Bobs site. I think I'll check out Mouser and go with that. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
i stock all the parts and kits for the 90412 and other along with all connectors, etc. pm me if you have any questions.
arcadepartsandrepair.com
 
I've been looking at so many Midway power supplies lately, I'm fairly certain there's a 2N3055 on that board. those are usually good to replace. there's a ceramic resistor near the upper left corner of all the components under the heatsink that tends to burn up and burn the board a bit too, you might want to take ohm measurements on it to make sure it's in spec. of the 3 power supplies I have at work, each one has the capacitor next to it caramelized(tm) so maybe when you mount the replacement you can tuck it the opposite direction from the resistor so it doesn't heat up again.

lastly, verify you've removed the old battery and it hasn't leaked anywhere. I wanna say those are NiCAD, so they do some pretty terrible shit when they leak.
 
I've been looking at so many Midway power supplies lately, I'm fairly certain there's a 2N3055 on that board. those are usually good to replace. there's a ceramic resistor near the upper left corner of all the components under the heatsink that tends to burn up and burn the board a bit too, you might want to take ohm measurements on it to make sure it's in spec. of the 3 power supplies I have at work, each one has the capacitor next to it caramelized(tm) so maybe when you mount the replacement you can tuck it the opposite direction from the resistor so it doesn't heat up again.

lastly, verify you've removed the old battery and it hasn't leaked anywhere. I wanna say those are NiCAD, so they do some pretty terrible shit when they leak.

Yeah, NiCD.

They are super easy to replace; unsolder the old battery then solder some wire to those spots and mount a 3.6v NiCd cordless phone battery (in a plastic baggy) in a remote container and you're golden. It's simple and effective.

If you have a cordless phone to charge the battery first that's a good thing to do as well. If you really want to be fancy you can crimp a connector to the ends of the wires and literally hot plug/unplug the battery while the game is on when it's time to replace batteries and you won't lose any data.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Really appreciate it.

I already removed the battery and corrosion doesn't seem to be an issue. I have a rechargeable nicd battery on order and plan to use that (mounted off the board).

Does anyone know the value of the tantalum caps on the dual audio board? I read somewhere that these should be replaced if you have a hiss (which I do). I just can't seem to find a value.

Thanks again.
 
The Tapper manual has the cap values as follows:

C1,C2 4.7 MF 25V RD TANT
C3,C4 22 MF 6V RD TANT
C11-C14 4.7 MF 25V RD TANT
 
Here is a list and a repair guide on bob roberts site:

http://therealbobroberts.net/midway.html

This is going to be a very expensive rebuild kit from here on out in my opinion.

The LM305's (from what I'm told) are getting expensive ($10 each in some cases), as well as all of the other parts.

It's definitely NOT just 3 capacitors to rebuild this thing.
 
Here is a list and a repair guide on bob roberts site:

http://therealbobroberts.net/midway.html

This is going to be a very expensive rebuild kit from here on out in my opinion.

The LM305's (from what I'm told) are getting expensive ($10 each in some cases), as well as all of the other parts.

It's definitely NOT just 3 capacitors to rebuild this thing.

Just FYI for those doing repairs, the last rebuild I did, did not need the LM305's. Had shotgunned everything on previous rebuilds, but decided to try without on the last one.
 
Just FYI for those doing repairs, the last rebuild I did, did not need the LM305's. Had shotgunned everything on previous rebuilds, but decided to try without on the last one.

you can (and should if you have time) replace individual parts and test until you are up and running, that will be the way I repair these from now on.

If you are missing +5v the LM305 may be one of the problems though.
 
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