MCR arcadeshop power board replacement, quick question

[tron guy]

MCR arcadeshop power board replacement, quick question

I am installing one of these into my tapper as we speak.

Problem is, someone already installed a switcher into the cab and had cut all the +5 wires from the wiring harness and were running them to the switcher.


I should be able to continue to run those same wires to the +5 on the switcher shouldn't I?

and go about my business with the arcadeshop kit, just as if nothing was different. I mean the arcadeshop switcher, will take care of the groud right?

I didn't notice any groud wires cut from the wiring harness, but they did actually have a ground running from the old power board to the switcher.

 

[tron guy]

bump .

 

[cleverlyj]

i would think so, however if you could, i'd probably still try to connect it to the adapter assuming the rest of the molex connectors are there and you have pins you can put in there, so it's hooked up to it's intended design.

per page 49 of this manual - http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Bally_Midway/Tron_General_Instructions.pdf

you should have 5 +5 voltages. 4 (red wires) of the 5 wires run to pins 2 through 5 on the j1 20 pin connector on the cpu board, (center board), and it is the connector that faces toward the front of the cabinet. the fifth wire, is a red/yellow wire that originally would've connected from pin 4 of the j5 connector at the p/s, and ran to pin 13 of the spinner optical board, to provide the +5 for operating the spinner.

edit - also, the 4 +5 wires that run to the cpu board go in this order - pin3 of j4 goes to pin 2 of the j1 20 pin connector, pin 5 of j4 goes to pin 3 of j1, pin 6 of j4 goes to pin4 of j1, and the last wire, is actually pin2 of the j5 connector, and that runs to pin5 of j1.

 

[tron guy]

i would think so, however if you could, i'd probably still try to connect it to the adapter assuming the rest of the molex connectors are there and you have pins you can put in there, so it's hooked up to it's intended design.

per page 49 of this manual - http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Bally_Midway/Tron_General_Instructions.pdf

you should have 5 +5 voltages. 4 (red wires) of the 5 wires run to pins 2 through 5 on the j1 20 pin connector on the cpu board, (center board), and it is the connector that faces toward the front of the cabinet. the fifth wire, is a red/yellow wire that originally would've connected from pin 4 of the j5 connector at the p/s, and ran to pin 13 of the spinner optical board, to provide the +5 for operating the spinner.

edit - also, the 4 +5 wires that run to the cpu board go in this order - pin3 of j4 goes to pin 2 of the j1 20 pin connector, pin 5 of j4 goes to pin 3 of j1, pin 6 of j4 goes to pin4 of j1, and the last wire, is actually pin2 of the j5 connector, and that runs to pin5 of j1.

I am at work so I cannot look at all the connectors right now.
Basically I can hook it up the way it was designed. But I am aware that (4) +5v red wires were hacked and ran directly to a switcher.
I want to continue to run those wires to the switcher, and use the arcadeshop mod just as if the wires were not hacked. I think that is fine.
I am basically wondering if I need to find an additional ground wire to run somewhere, or
.
.
trust that the original ground wire was not cut (which it wasn't) and that the ground will be supplied via the original molex through the arcadeshop modification.

 

[HudsonArcade]

I am at work so I cannot look at all the connectors right now.
Basically I can hook it up the way it was designed. But I am aware that (4) +5v red wires were hacked and ran directly to a switcher.

Just unhack the +5 lines...

Your new switcher won't be stable if you're running it w/o a load on the +5.

 

[tron guy]

Just unhack the +5 lines...

Your new switcher won't be stable if you're running it w/o a load on the +5.

thanks.

though that is the answer I didn't want to hear.

But if I run the "hacked" +5 to the switcher, I couldn't trust the ground that isn't hacked? coming from the wiring harness.

I realize I am rambling (about things I know little about, lol) but, I don't want to figure out how to reattach the original +5 from the harness back into the original molex that goes to the power board.

I work hard at being lazy

 

[mrbill2084]

the arcadeshop is also using a switcher so why run 2 in 1 cabinet.

What you should do is fix the connector back to original. You don't need any special tools to replace the connector. Just a wire cutter/stripper, a pair of pliers and the right parts (molex and loose pins).

 

[tron guy]

the arcadeshop is also using a switcher so why run 2 in 1 cabinet.

What you should do is fix the connector back to original. You don't need any special tools to replace the connector. Just a wire cutter/stripper, a pair of pliers and the right parts (molex and loose pins).

I am obviosly not being very clear with my explanations.

The game has a stock power supply board aside from the fact that the +5 was hacked and run to a switcher.
because of this hack, I want to continue to run the very same +5 wires to the switcher directly (vs. re-molexing the hacked up wires)
the arcadeshop little power pcb will be running off of the same switcher.

does that present any problem?

I suppose the onlyconcern I had was that a ground was present to support the +5 I will be running on a direct line to the switcher. I am thinking that the ground is present in the molex connector to the arcadeshop power supply board.

 

[tron guy]

another way to put it.

if my +5 wasn't hacked, I would just plug in the 3 connectors, and hook the arcadeshop pcb up to a switcher.


since the +5 is hacked I want to plug in the 3 connectors, hook up the arcadeshop pcb to a switcher, and run my hacked +5 to the same switcher.

 

[mrbill2084]

so you plan to shove the hacked wires under the adapter and put them directly to the switcher. That should work.

 

[cleverlyj]

yeah. now, you will lose battery backup for settings and high scores if you do it that way, without the +5 coming from the power supply.

 

[tron guy]

yeah. now, you will lose battery backup for settings and high scores if you do it that way, without the +5 coming from the power supply.

oh, gotcha.

so it would be best to somehow run that +5v shit back through the molex and the arcadeshop power board.

just like mark said 10 posts ago.

lol

 

[cleverlyj]

oh, gotcha.

so it would be best to somehow run that +5v shit back through the molex and the arcadeshop power board.

just like mark said 10 posts ago.

lol

yeah, pretty much. but as far as reconnecting the +5, it really won't take much. to make sure the +5 wires get to their original positions, just pull out slack and tug on each one while following it down the line. i already noted the positions for each wire so all you really need to do is identify them and rehook them up.

 

[tron guy]

ok, I "rehacked" the +5 back to normal and this bitch works great now.


well, now that I am using the arcadeshop power board kit. or whatever the hell it's called
thanks guys

 

[HudsonArcade]

the arcadeshop little power pcb will be running off of the same switcher.

If you're running everything off the same switcher, it should be fine.

 

[tron guy]

If you're running everything off the same switcher, it should be fine.

thanks mark, I took your original advice, and re-connected the +5v where they belong, and it's flawless now.

funny thing was I had very tiny graphics glitches in the bartender. The +5 was at 5.16 or something like that. I adjusted it down to 5.1 and the glitches are gone.