May need harness for Pole Position cockpit, question

idahoarcade

Active member
Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
203
Reaction score
57
Location
Boise, Idaho
I bought a pole position cockpit a while ago and the harness is pretty hacked up. If I were to replace that harness, would I need a specific PP cockpit harness, or could I purchase a nice used harness out of just about any Atari cabinet of that era?
Thanks for your help
 
Tough one, because a PP cockpit harness will be hard to find and might take a while.

Many Atari games had a very similar harness, with just different spots for wires at the edge connector. PP is unique in that it has 2 ARIIs(more power wires) and more unique controls(pedal, wheel, and shifter). And the cockpit is even more unique in that it adds a brake and the wire lengths are all weird.

So you could find a PP upright harness and 1: add length of wire where needed and 2: adds wires for the brake pedal or you could wait for a cockpit harness to show up. Worth looking for an original for sure
 
How hacked up? I'd try to take what you have and extend it where needed and 'restore' the original harness. Is the original edge connector there?
 
You are in a tough spot.

As others have noted, PP cockpit is quite the unicorn as far as a wiring harness.

I think you would be better off recovering what you have, up to replacing wires if needed, or just splicing in wires to the hacked sections.

Or pulling the harness, building a loom, developing a schematic and pick list, and rebuilding it as new.

The former would be far less expensive than the latter.

What is your choice?
 
I might need a PP cockpit harness as well I just restored a cockpit but it is a Namco harness and boardset my board guy is having a hell of a time with it and I do have a working US PP2 board that he previously repaired. My thoughts are wait and see if he could get the NAMCO board working or change the harness and put in my US board. No rush but looking at options.
 
I may be in a similar boat.. any advice on getting these back to the edge connector? I get why they bypassed but why clip it right at the harness ugh

I'm putting in a p4 position is why
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20251122_232011701.MP.jpg
    PXL_20251122_232011701.MP.jpg
    350.4 KB · Views: 14
  • PXL_20251122_232007301.MP.jpg
    PXL_20251122_232007301.MP.jpg
    269.7 KB · Views: 14
Last edited:
I may be in a similar boat.. any advice on getting these back to the edge connector? I get why they bypassed but why clip it right at the harness ugh

I'm putting in a p4 position is why
That is FUGGGLY. Some people should never be allowed to own these games. Well, there are too many questions, but the pinout for the edge connector is in the manual and you're gonna want some .156 split terminal pins and a good crimper. And if you search around for the "mod", which you inherited a horrible attempt at, it calls for tapping into the ground and +5v wires running to the edge connector and the extensions of this tap run to quick disconnects which you can then tap onto the .25 spade connector test points on the pcb. John's arcade has a whole YouTube video on it, but even he fucks it up. Do not solder these wires to your game board when you can just crimp a female .25 disconnect for easy removal of the board, etc. Or, just keep your edge connectors clean (fiberglass pen, isopropyl alcohol and Deoxit) and don't worry about the "mod"
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Djm
That is FUGGGLY. Some people should never be allowed to own these games. Well, there are too many questions, but the pinout for the edge connector is in the manual and you're gonna want some .156 split terminal pins and a good crimper. And if you search around for the "mod", which you inherited a horrible attempt at, it calls for tapping into the ground and +5v wires running to the edge connector and the extensions of this tap run to quick disconnects which you can then tap onto the .25 spade connector test points on the pcb. John's arcade has a whole YouTube video on it, but even he fucks it up. Do not solder these wires to your game board when you can just crimp a female .25 disconnect for easy removal of the board, etc. Or, just keep your edge connectors clean (fiberglass pen, isopropyl alcohol and Deoxit) and don't worry about the "mod"
Thank you for confirming! I'll need some terminal pins but I have the rest. Yea I saw the johns arcade video that's what I saw a year ago watching for fun so only reason I knew what was attempted but yes I remember they should use spade connector and leave wire back to the connector plus they should use their brain. I'm newer to all this but even this is bad at my noob standard.
I will pause for today . Thanks again
 
You can extract those pins from the edge connector, resolder the wires to them, and return everything back to stock, without needing to buy anything. You'll need an extraction tool (or a correct-sized bobby pin) to remove the pins. But there's just a metal locking tab inside the connector that prevents each contact from backing out. You just need a tool to bend that tab in, and the pin will slide out, and you can solder the wires back to it.

And as wugly said, there's no need to do any 'mods' to these cabs, when you just keep your edge connector clean once every couple of years by hitting it with a fiberglass pen. But that's only for running original game boards. If you're using the P4, it's even less of an issue, as that board won't draw anywhere near what the original game boards draw. And it's the high current combined with the slow oxidation of the fingers on the game board that causes the fingers to burn up after several years if they are never cleaned. But if you just clean them once every year or two (which you should be doing to all games anyway, as periodic maintenance), you prevent the problem entirely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Djm
You can extract those pins from the edge connector, resolder the wires to them, and return everything back to stock, without needing to buy anything. You'll need an extraction tool (or a correct-sized bobby pin) to remove the pins. But there's just a metal locking tab inside the connector that prevents each contact from backing out. You just need a tool to bend that tab in, and the pin will slide out, and you can solder the wires back to it.

And as wugly said, there's no need to do any 'mods' to these cabs, when you just keep your edge connector clean once every couple of years by hitting it with a fiberglass pen. But that's only for running original game boards. If you're using the P4, it's even less of an issue, as that board won't draw anywhere near what the original game boards draw. And it's the high current combined with the slow oxidation of the fingers on the game board that causes the fingers to burn up after several years if they are never cleaned. But if you just clean them once every year or two (which you should be doing to all games anyway, as periodic maintenance), you prevent the problem entirely.
Yes I repinned the whole thing and have it to p4 PCB working perfectly now!!! Might also us original sometime too for the heck of it! Thanks for the quality tips too!!!
 
Cool.

Save the old connector and pins, as you can use those pins to repair others in the future.

It's rare to need to repin an entire connector, as at worst you may only have one or two pins that need to be replaced, if they are burned up and can't be repaired. It's far less work, and you're far less likely to mess up a connection, or cause a bad crimp, etc, replacing every pin.
 
Back
Top Bottom