Maverick doesn't work, go figure... EPROM?

The online manual at IPDB is horrible, but from what I can tell it looks like you are missing the wiring harness that would connect the DMD to logic power. You should have a ribbon cable for data and then one multi-colored connector for power.

The power cable probably left with the power board when they took it out of your game.

FROM: http://www.pinrepair.com/de/index3.htm#dots

On the super-size 192x64 DMD, the input voltages are low (+5 volts and +12/18 volts coming into the display). Sega did this because the 192x64 DMD has it's own power supply on the dot matrix controller board itself (the higher voltages are not supplied by the main power supply). This is unlike the other two smaller dot matrix displays.

Large 192x64 DMD power supply connector CN5. No high voltage feed to this board. The HV is generated on the dot display board itself.

* CN5 pin 1: ground
* CN5 pin 2: ground
* CN5 pin 3: ground
* CN5 pin 4: +5 volts
* CN5 pin 5: +5 volts
* CN5 pin 6: +5 volts
* CN5 pin 7: key
* CN5 pin 8: +5 volts


Cherry Super-Size 192x64 DMD, connector P3:

* NOT INSTALLED.

Cherry (only) component P2 voltages. These are converted on the board to the +80, -90 and -100 volts DC needed for the display.
o P2 pin 1,2: +12 dc
o P2 pin 4,5: Ground
o P2 pin 6: +5 dc


Booting the Large DMD on the Bench.
The cool thing about the large DMD is how easy it is to boot on the work bench. Because the large DMD generates the high voltage right on the DMD board itself, it only needs 5 and 12 volts DC to boot. (Even though it says it needs 24 volts DC as an input voltage, these displays work fine with 12 volts DC instead.) Using a standard computer power supply, the 4pin hard drive connector can be plugged directly into the large DMD power connector! Using the same computer power supply, you can power a DE CPU board and DMD controller board with 5 volts. So with just a computer power supply, you can get a DE game (CPU board, DMD controller, large DMD display) up and running in attract mode right on the work bench.


Large DMD EPROM Speed.
Also be aware the large dot matrix display requires 120 nanosecond EPROMs or faster. If using 150 ns EPROMs (which are OK in the older 128x32 and earlier displays), the super size display will not work! The 68000 processor for the display is running at 12 mHz, so the 150 ns EPROMs are too slow.

If the Super Size DMD Still Doesn't Work...
Additionally, the +5/+12 volt bridge rectifier (DB1) on the power supply board may need to be replaced. If this bridge becomes "leaky" (less efficient), it may not be able to supply the robust +5 volts needed on the display board. So if the above modification does not work, replace bridge DB1 next. When replacing DB1 on the power supply board, also solder an 18 gauge wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. Do this on the solder side of the power supply board. These added wires will help prevent future cracked solder joints on the power supply board.

Remember there is also a BR3 bridge rectifier and a fuse mounted to the backbox metal ground plane. These provide voltage to the super sized score display. Sometimes this bridge can short or the lug connectors fail. Be sure to check that.

Still doesn't work? Make sure the backbox grounding strap is tight and making good contact to the 192x64 dot matrix controller board. A loose grounding strap can contribute to super size DMD problems.

Last resort for 192x64 displays that are on again, off again, random dots, fading in and out, and rebooting. Stern suggests pulling and reseating the chips on the display board behind the DMD glass. The chips (three of them) may come out hard and may sound "gritty" on the way out and back in. But give it try.



Good Luck!!
 
Ok, slid by the house and checked a couple things between calls..... On the Cherry DMD, there is nothing plugged into the P2, which there should be. Also the display board j4 has no pins, let alone anything plugged in. Finally, the display board j1 is there, however it has no wires at pins 4 and 5, which appear on the diagram to be AC in? Should I wire AC to those pins, and if so, where do I get it? The power supply board cn5 and cn6 voltages are good
 
Do you have a hard copy of the schematic?

It should list a detailed pin by pin list of what power goes where, then you could easily fill in the missing wires. The online version of the schematic was scanned at such a low resolution I can't make out what goes where.

I'm glad to hear that the DMD still may have a chance of working once you do get power to it, those things are pricey!
 
I think I can get the 12 volts and 5 volts for the P2 plug from the power supply board, that should be easy. Still not sure about the display board J1 plug missing wires at pins 4 and 5. Schematic says they are AC in.......not quit sure where to get that. It just seems to me there should be a plug somewhere for the P2 that I cant find.

My only real question here is the display board J4. Mine doesnt even have header pins there but the schematic shows ground, 5 volts, and +V UNREG. there.... Dont exactly know what +V UNREG. is..... and or where to get it. I emailed Darren to take a pic of the back of his DMD with everything attached.... If he can do that, that ought to help.
 
i will be happy to, i cant do it until fri or sat, as i cant physically get to it in storage until then, but ill do that!
 
That would be great, but I don't want to put ya out.... well, I've been pulling my hair out. I built a connector for the dmd plug that was missing... Still didn't work. I did find that the rectifier for the dmd doesn't seem to be putting out, think it should be putting out 18 v... I'm getting about 2. also the blue wire inputs to it are only testing at about 1 volt each... does anybody know if I can steal 18 volts from the lamp matrix capacitor, which is 18 volts? I checked the fuse for it, and the holder, all good. Seems like the transformer isn't putting out the 9 volts to the blue wires? Basically, I'm confused.... Really wanna get this going, just got an inside line on a fully working Cruisn world for 400 bucks. This game did come from Spain, but I thought I had looked at the wiring and thought it was set up for 110...

I will verify I guess tomorrow.. New EPROMs and rectifier should be here also.

I think the 12 volts, which actually comes from 18, to the DMD is all that is wrong.
 
Well, did a little further tinkering this morning before work... Ended up blowing the bridge rectifier fuse... I think I'm throwing in the towel, gonna get the local repairman to diagnosis it and fix it I guess. I think there are too many variables for my skill level. I really think the 12 volts to the dmd is a problem, but don't understand the rest. It was definitely missing a plug to the dmd, but I made one and it still doesn't work.. I only get a train whistle sound.

Darren, don't worry about sending that picture. I'm gonna have Charleston Gamerooms fix it now. I know the owner pretty well, so he should take care of me.

Consider this thread pretty much complete at this point........
 
Well, did a little further tinkering this morning before work... Ended up blowing the bridge rectifier fuse... I think I'm throwing in the towel, gonna get the local repairman to diagnosis it and fix it I guess. I think there are too many variables for my skill level. I really think the 12 volts to the dmd is a problem, but don't understand the rest. It was definitely missing a plug to the dmd, but I made one and it still doesn't work.. I only get a train whistle sound.

Darren, don't worry about sending that picture. I'm gonna have Charleston Gamerooms fix it now. I know the owner pretty well, so he should take care of me.

Consider this thread pretty much complete at this point........
 
Well, did some further tinkering.... CPU bench tested and the PIA light doesn't go out. Good 5 volts, and brand new EPROM. I have arranged to send it to the seller for replacement, or fixing. The DMD also doesn't work, nothing on screen. I really need to know if something should be plugged into the P2, which there isn't. The manual seems to indicate there should be 5 volts and 18 volts and ground there. I can do that, but the DMD J7 plug seems to pop a fuse when plugged in. I don't know if it's Pined right. Does anybody know the pinouts for the DMD J7, it's a four wire plug, with a 5 v, a 12 v, and two ground I believe, but the 5 v and 12 v may be backwards. I may just send the DMD to the seller also to fix/ replace. Anybody got one of this generation pinball that could test the input wires for J7 and confirm the plug for P2? Any help will be appreciated
 
the 14 pin plug absolutely MUST be plugged in.....

i am moving storage units this week , ill be able to take some pics for you

i can also email you a mabual if you are in need.....just pm me your email


my game boots and dmd is 100% working with no issues, i would be more than willing to test your cpu and dmd, just cover shipping, ill test the same day i receive and return ship following day.....lmk
 
Last edited:
My question was about the P2 plug on the DMD, it's about 6 pins I think. Not the data cable. I'm actually sending the CPU and the dmd to the seller, who is a dealer, to fix or replace. The P2 plug is on the dmd itself, just under the display board. Mine didn't have anything plugged in there and the online manual indicates there should be. I'm also not sure of the pinouts for the J7 plug on the dmd, but I'm gonna wait to see whT the seller says. Thanks guys for all your help....and gals!
 
good luck, doodle....i hope he gets them to 100%.


you need to post a vid when you get everything working...not a lot of maverick vids out there. great pin, IMO.

again, good luck.
 
i truly hope that this works out for you,

does he have another maverick, or one of the other 3 machines that used this dmd?

i dont know that id trust the seller at this point if it were me,

he sold you a game that was supposed to work once you replaced a part HE scavenged?

and magically it didnt work, now youve spent money to replace a part he yanked, bought eproms, spents time diagnosing, and now he is supposed to make it work?

seems to me if it were working to begin with he wouldve just sold it at a higher price

if he has an issue with it and returns it or it doesnt work when you get it back,

send it to me and ill test for you on MY WORKING maverick, i have NOTHING to gain but to help out another enthusiast, if you actually want help pm me
 
Yeah,
Kinda sucks but our emails back and forth seem promising. He has a Batman Forever to test the parts. It's just too hard for me starting with so many unknowns on a system Im not real familiar with. I plan to bench test the CPU and dmd as per the online manual before putting them into the game when I get them back.
I hate buying games that are not working, but I got attached!

I somehow remember posting a thread on here to buy a game on that road trip I took, but no, nobody on here, which would probably be safer, wanted to sell me something......boo hoo.....

I'll keep my fingers crossed. Hopefully I'm just out some trouble on this machine.... I'll let you guys know when I hear from the seller and get the parts back..
 
Hopefully this helps!


as you can see in the pic, j2 connects with p1, that would explain why you got nothing!

picture.php
 
Last edited:
Well, heard back from seller

CPU has a bad pia chip, but he is going to fix it.

Bad news

He says the DMD is fried and I must have done it. I calmly explained that the DMD was already wired up and I simply installed the new power supply. It never showed the software revision number or anything. He still says I must have broke it.

Basically, nothing I can do. I told him to fix the CPU and return the parts to me.

Guess the deal was too good to be true, Ill be the first to admit it so you guys don't have to point it out.

He also said I could return it, minus 150 dollars for the DMD I broke. I said no, Im not that stupid to get taken twice.
So I guess I'll make sure it's working properly then look into getting a DMD. I honestly would still only have about 900 in it at that point so not terribly bad.

If I have any influence on this forum however, I would like to request everybody to never buy from Fernando and Pinballs R Us. I had never mentioned his name or company before on here because I was holding out for him to do the right thing, but , too late now.

I do still need the pinouts for the DMD plugs, mainly the P2 plug, which had nothing plugged into it. I got the voltages for it, but I don't know which is pin 1, pin2, etc. Any help appreciated.

Man, that's a long post! I must be venting. You know, I was a Detective at my agency for 5 years and if he, the seller, were here, I would probably arrest him for Breach of Trust. Lucky for him he's out of my jurisdiction!!
 
hate that it didn't work out, DD. was hoping you'd get lucky...


if you ever get tired of messing with it, you know that maverick has a home waiting on him here in aiken. ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom