Marquee frames - SW, crystal castles, etc need help!

DPtwiz

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Marquee frames - SW, crystal castles, etc need help!

I had all the info wrote down, and now can't find it. can someone with an Angle gage please tell me what this angle is? You can check it right on the machine, it's the only info i can't remember, and i'm going to run some of these later today or tomorrow, thanks! Brett

AAAAAangle.jpg
 
If you run these again I'll buy one for Crystal Castles/Agent X and one for Star Wars.

I'd also buy one of the Tempest variety, but somehow I'm guessing those are too different.
 
Tempest is different, but i am making some of those too. No dovetail, just glued and stapled like the factory did. i am using Birch ply, so they won't fall apart if they ever get wet, and 10 times stronger than original.
 
Cool. Well put me down for 2 and 1 on those and I'll pay whenever needed. I hate stripping down the original particle board/MDF ones.
 
The originals are *ridiculously* weak. I have purchased a few of these online and have had a number of them break during shipping.
 
Tempest is different, but i am making some of those too. No dovetail, just glued and stapled like the factory did. i am using Birch ply, so they won't fall apart if they ever get wet, and 10 times stronger than original.

I was kidding about the dovetails. I know if you're using Birch ply and good glue, they'll hold together 10x better than original.

Probably with the originals, aside from age, is that with the particle board cut out for the marquee/light, it gets skinny in places, and particle board just isn't strong enough for that. They should have made the factory parts from plywood, but I'm guessing PB was cheaper, already used with the vinyl laminated onto it for other cabinet pieces (scraps?), and mills cleaner.
 
Probably with the originals, aside from age, is that with the particle board cut out for the marquee/light, it gets skinny in places, and particle board just isn't strong enough for that.

The hinged top on the Warlords cocktail has the same problem.
 
a bit of a stumble today.. my top sheet on my machine decided to pop loose while i was cutting parts and ruined a sheet full. Guess i should be babysitting the damn thing instead of walking away! It was all but shot, so i broke down and replaced it. It has to be totally surfaced on both sides, i just finished one side, waiting on someone to come over and help me flip it without tearing up the seal on the sheet below it. Then surface, see where it's low, resurface.. basically a day killer now. I'll be back at it tomorrow and get some parts made.
 
a bit of a stumble today.. my top sheet on my machine decided to pop loose while i was cutting parts and ruined a sheet full. Guess i should be babysitting the damn thing instead of walking away! It was all but shot, so i broke down and replaced it. It has to be totally surfaced on both sides, i just finished one side, waiting on someone to come over and help me flip it without tearing up the seal on the sheet below it. Then surface, see where it's low, resurface.. basically a day killer now. I'll be back at it tomorrow and get some parts made.

Ugh... that sucks... Things like this only happen to me when I am in the middle of something time sensitive. Are you talking about your spoilboard specifically? Do you have a vacuum system to hold down your sheets?

I dropped BIG bucks on my vacuum hold-down system when I got my machine. It has been worth every penny. Once it is on, four grown men pushing at once as hard as they can can't budge a sheet of MDF or plywood on the table.

Hope you get it back up and running soon!
 
yep - spoilboard and vacuum hold down.. surfacing the other side now.. had to keep bumping the depth to get the shiny off.. never saw a sheet of 3/4 mdf vary so much in thickness.. final cut (so far) is .075 !!! I made my own vacuum hold down system with PrOk's help, i have about 700.00 in it, and i'm getting 550 pounds per square inch with a feign turbo III shop vac :D your right, worth EVERY penny.
 
I have a simple angle copier doodad. I would have to match that to the angle on the cabinet, then match the tablesaw blade to that, then read the angle from the tablesaw. I could do that tonight if that will do for you.
 
I don't have an angle doodad but my neighbor does. I'll ask him to bring it home so that we can measure it. I have one of these off of my machine so he can make some for me. How much are these? I might order some from you instead of bugging him.

Pat
 
thanks! i get 50.00 for these, i do not have (nor can find) the massive roundover bit for the front angle.. i spend hours sanding it in there by hand!
 
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