mario wide body doing the totsie roll

discgolfer72

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juts snagged a wide body mario cab monitor has a great pic verry slight burn but i can not for the life of me stop the vertical roll (up down)

well i have gotten it to stop but when i do the pic is showing all messed up bottom of the screen is in the middle top of screen is on the bottom

am i missing somthing i have only really dealt with wg monitors and this thing is driving me nuts


im i right in thinking that a good pot cleaning may fix my problem or is this cap releated

it just seems that the pots are uber senstive i can touch them and it affects the results

thanks in adv all
 
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I don't recall.. Is there a horizontal hold on the PCB? OR, just on the monitor? I know DK Jr. has a horizontal hold. I forget on the MB.
 
I don't recall.. Is there a horizontal hold on the PCB? OR, just on the monitor? I know DK Jr. has a horizontal hold. I forget on the MB.

Same - same, the H Hold is on the monitor deflection pcb. (Chassis)

Do a cap kit, and you should be fine.
 
cool thanks Dokert

dammit i wanna play now lol
got a link to what kit i need over at bob's (this will be my first cap kit )
normally i just stick in a new monitor but i guess since this is a ninty im sol on sticking one of my spare's in it

edit
damn im sorry that should have beem vertical hold im my original post

so used to verticaly mounted monitors this one threw me off lol

so dokert is it still a cap problem(crossing my finger for a no lol)
 
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sounds about right the vhold pot on the monitor has a little wiggle on the nob
and is uber senstive


now a ? that im shure will be anwserd with a no lol


am i able to scavange a pot off one of the monitors i have here (to be spesfic i have a remote adj board from a 25k wg that has no mate) can one of thoes pots be used or would that just cause me more prolems

the board has
a 10 k cc
200k ac
200k yl
100k ac
20k cc
10k cc
and 2 others that are broken so they wont work (thats why it has no mate)

here is the remote board in ?

DSC03725.jpg
 
I dont know if you can swap them or not, but the V. Hold on a 20EZ is a 200k pot at VR353.

I would think you could swap them, but I dont know much about this sort of thing, best wait for someone who does.
 
cool damn lol

ok so i need a 200 k pot for the monitor chassis
but after opening up the pcb cage i may have found the root of the problem
the pots on the pcb
the top pot works in adjusting the horz
the bottom pot is not doing anything at all i can see no change at all no matter wich way i turn it
i sprayed it down with some pot cleaner/lube and worked it back an forth and still no affect when turning the pot

is it more likley there is a bad trace somewhere on my boardset or would this pot be totaly shot
and if so what pot would i need
tommorw the elect supply store will be open so ill head down there and try and grab some new pots

thanks again for all the help and please bear with me this is my first attmpt at trouble shooting and repairing a monitor
looks like i picked a wonderful monitor to do so on lol
 
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cool damn lol

ok so i need a 200 k pot for the monitor chassis
but after opening up the pcb cage i may have found the root of the problem
the pots on the pcb
the top pot works in adjusting the horz
the bottom pot is not doing anything at all i can see no change at all no matter wich way i turn it
i sprayed it down with some pot cleaner/lube and worked it back an forth and still no affect when turning the pot

The boardset has 2 pots side by side. 1 is H position and 1 is V position. The other pot on the board is for sound.
 
her is what im looking at
(two pots at the bottom left)
top pot adjusts the horz (left right oreantation)
bottom pot does nothing at all

DSC03733.jpg


so since it is not affecting the screen pos at all then im guessing i have a bad trace or bad pot
since im going to the elect supply tommorow for the 200 k pot for the v hold i am going to go ahead an purchase one for the v pos also as it seems that is my main ishus (i can get the screen to hold but when i do the bottom of the screen is in the middle of the tube)
 
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cool goin gto leave here in a bit can someone confrm these are the correct thing i need
0.1 uf 50 v film cap at location c3 on vid board (mine looks exploded can someone verfy it functon also)


30k ohm vr at vr2 for v pos on vid board

and on the monitor at vr353 a 8-200k for v hold
 
i thought id close this out by saying thanks to all that helped me and let everyone know the fix to my problem

my problem was not with either pots or the monitor itself but with the .1 uf 50 v film cap located at c3 on the vid board

luckly this cap was so easy to spot as being bad
DSC03738.jpg

DSC03739.jpg


i replaced it with a .1 uf 100 v mylar cap from my local elect supply store and now my monitor is as good as new

i initally had a problem with some white blurr (left to right ) but it wen t away after the monitor was on for a little bit im guessing the cap just needed to charge up a bit becaue i turned off the machine let it rest for 10 mins and turned it back on and now its still fine

need to fine tune the pic adjustments a bit but so far look slike my widebody is back in action



now i need to order me some side art and a cpo and get some matched paint weeeeee my first board level repair went off without any problems

again thanks guys
 
Sorry, I am unable to see the problem in the video.

I would have to say, try tirning the brightness on the flyback down a hair.
 
as i said above it fixed itself it was like the brightness was 2 high but after a few min's it went away
im betting it was just the cap charging up because now after having it off and turning it back on the broblem is still gone

again thanks for walking me thrue the fix
 
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