Makvision Repair Logs & Tips

[Ohmerone]

Tube Bad? Not Good!!

I'm not surprised they won't
last and its going to be hard to sub
because of the dual focus pins..
On the LG tubes.

If you can put the questionable
chassis in a working game then
you can use the process of elimination.
Along with your test from the tube..tester..

You have to check your notes but you may
have the correct setting for the tester
I was using the sencore tester and it still didnt
work out...for me..

The game can use a LCD or LED but it
won't look right because of the bezel etc.

Have to run some test on which monitor but
this may be your only choice sence the crt
are going out!

You may beable still get the whole chassis crt monitor
but not just the tube and you know its going to
happen to the new one as well..unless they have change
the tubes on new chassis models.
It will happen to all of the crt base model's
Some will last longer some won't
Good Luck

 

[tron guy]

ok I'm going to jump in on this thread in the event what I am working on is relevant here, if it's not I will get out.

I have a 29" wei ya makivision monitor from a SUPERBIKES arcade game. The monitor is listed at being made in 2010. Sounds about right since superbikes (fast and the furious) is a rather new game.

The screen is all green(ish) but just about playable-tested good on a rejuvenator.

What should I be looking at first? I was thinking of capping the neckboard and testing/changing the transistors.

 

[Ohmerone]

Caps first!!!!

e

ok I'm going to jump in on this thread in the event what I am working on is relevant here, if it's not I will get out.

I have a 29" wei ya makivision monitor from a SUPERBIKES arcade game. The monitor is listed at being made in 2010. Sounds about right since superbikes (fast and the furious) is a rather new game.

The screen is all green(ish) but just about playable-tested good on a rejuvenator.

What should I be looking at first? I was thinking of capping the neckboard and testing/changing the transistors.

The Makvision chassis is used in many Raw thrills games and

other companys so you could find these issues with other

companys because they are using the makvision or yei-ya monitors

Replace the caps i mention for the poor picture

that has anything to do with color tracking or tube related repair.


I recommend clean and balance only if need..

Monitor the emission per gun and dont go for 33.3% per gun

go with the flow..example if the primary color gun test good emission

then replace the neck parts only!!

Dont adjust the data value for digital because its not whats changing
Or trim pots for analog because its not the issue here but if you
cant get the tracking right then go for it..

The neck board failure is because of the tube changing..

but the best way to judge the chassis is restore these parts first..

and check the emission only then if your missing a primary color

then hit it with the rejuvenator...

Some cases replacing the whole monitor with a new one is always and option

because the down time goes against the revenue of the games..

If its a issue with the boss then say the monitor is fryed and get a new one and maybe

buy a few months down the road..thats what i do because the company is loosing

money on the down time and recalls from the shit tube..

Then put the used one in another older game all together..

if it within the correct res for game

because it needs more TLC as the tube changes it effects the neck board.

They have more then one neck board being used..

If i didn't say replace the transistor on the neck board

then i havent found a reason too and a waste of money...

the current draw its mainly effecting the caps..

1 uf 350vs NP and 1 uf 250vs on any version neck board

because they are on all the neck bds just may have different part

locations..

If you say i tested the caps and they test good..

then your not following my lead and need to start

your own repair log..

I have had KLOV members say that and then finally

replace them with new and they were good to go.

I have spent the time to TS this issue and if you like to

find fault its up to you.. things could change..with the parts listed.

If you can find the rare 1 uf 350vs NP caps then good for you

Happ has told me they can't get them...maybe they are not trying hard enough..

the 1 uf 100vs NP is mainly the one i can get and use and could need to replace

more often during the year..then the 350v rated ones.

I also change the 1uf 250vs and have found them domed on the neck board.

Again its because of the tube..its damaging the neck board.

The main chassis has issues to but most on any monitor the neck board

has to do with RGB drive so need to check the repair log for other

issue that can relate to a poor picture.

And anyone can share thier experience with the problem

because the defective parts list could change.

But from my experience i target certian parts and go from there..

 

[tron guy]

so if I gather you correctly-if the tube tests good on the rejuvenator(which it does), change the caps on the neck board and reevaluate?

 

[Ohmerone]

yes

Yes you need to replace the caps...

 

[tron guy]

ok tested it on the rejuve all of the guns were very strong, but I did show some htr leakage.
Changed all of the caps on the neckboard

reflowed solder throughout the entire chassis

still have a green screen

edited to ask:
is it now time to look at transistors on the neck board?

I suppose I could go in, take a look, and swap some around if they have the same value and see if the color issue changes to a different color.

 

[gamefixer]

This current line up of Mak's makes me wish for Kortek to make a come back. These have got to be the WORST monitors to ever grace our cabinets with their presence.

I'm about 95% LCD on my route and even they suck but no where near as much as teh Maks.

Ohm, good job putting together this list of issues.

 

[tron guy]

Not sure if this matters:

at position C7 (almost certain) on the neckboard, the cap list/kit called for a 10uf 25v cap. There was currently a 100uf 16v cap in there.

I asked bob roberts if I should change it and he said leave it alone, it could be a factory mod. I agreed and replaced it with a new 100uf 50v.

 

[Ohmerone]

??

Not sure if this matters:

at position C7 (almost certain) on the neckboard, the cap list/kit called for a 10uf 25v cap. There was currently a 100uf 16v cap in there.

I asked bob roberts if I should change it and he said leave it alone, it could be a factory mod. I agreed and replaced it with a new 100uf 50v.

C7 is a 10uf...just like the other 2 caps for RB to the chip..

I don't know of any cap kit for the chassis I stock all the caps and change

only certain ones.. not all the caps on the board because its a newer chassis

not over four to eight yrs old..yet

I would suspect the video card more then the transistor..

you can swap the g with red at the plug going into the neck board for testing.

i'm going to assume I have the correct neck board in the picture and that

you have a slightly green screen not all green and no video, but you have video

and its a greenish picture, like others have mention to me..

If you have a different version board then this one let us know..

I would put a 10uf in place of 100uf you had because its a match

for the other two caps used per the schematic..for RB drive to the video

processor chip.. I have to ask is your pots over heat like in the picture..

I did say in some case's you need to ohm out the pots to confirm

they are still good.. because they are over heated..

If you like swap the red transistor with the green then use

b/w image or crosshatch pattern to balance the rgb to a good black and white raster..

I have experienced video issues with the video card so you might confirm the video

card is working good..check it too. just more to think about, also swap the neck

board with another game you might have..

Could you be talking about the cap that is sitting over the video processor chip

That brown one should be different uf and you have your location number wrong?

C18,C19,C20 1 uf 250 and c21,c22,c23 350v NP is the only caps i deal with..

on these neck board..single or dual focus neck board..

I had found more of a crt issue with the LG tubes with dual focus then the single

focus used on thompson tubes.. but all of them are a low grade tube...

Try and see what works best for you,,Good Luck!

 

[tron guy]

tha'ts definitely a different neck board. Mine does not have a single adjustment pot(better go check again) And it has a "born on" date of Sept 2010.

 

[tron guy]

Ok here are a couple of pictures of my neckboard. One of the pictures shows the spot I mentioned earlier (C7 IIRC) where I put in a different value cab based on bob's advice. There are 4 caps in a row, 3 of them are 10uf the 4th one called for a 10uf, but had the other value in there, hence I replaced it with the value it had at that point.

I'm not sure which transistors I ought to be pulling and testing/swapping around

 

[Ohmerone]

Transistor's?

Ok you have a 2929 Digital neck board

that use's Q11,12,13 for video amps

check the dc starting in the board

follow the schematic.

http://na.suzohapp.com/service_center/pdf/support/Makvision/47271700_2ndgen-neckboard.pdf

Start at the plug for RGB and measure the dc

if the green is higher then the others it will cause a greenish picture

then its the video card in the computer.

if they are about the same..using a crosshatch test pattern

to keep the dc and signals the same thru the neck board..

im sure you want to swap the transistor first so swap Q11 with Q12

the issue should move to the red color.

C7 is a 100uf so leave it alone

A quick edit: Tip..if the OSD feature colors looks good?
then the Video amps are good..because the OSD signals go in and out the video
processor chip to the video amp then to tube.
Does the OSD colors look wrong??

 

[tron guy]

Ok you have a 2929 Digital neck board

that use's Q11,12,13 for video amps

check the dc starting in the board

follow the schematic.

http://na.suzohapp.com/service_center/pdf/support/Makvision/47271700_2ndgen-neckboard.pdf

Start at the plug for RGB and measure the dc

if the green is higher then the others it will cause a greenish picture

then its the video card in the computer.

if they are about the same..using a crosshatch test pattern

to keep the dc and signals the same thru the neck board..

im sure you want to swap the transistor first so swap Q11 with Q12

the issue should move to the red color.

C7 is a 100uf so leave it alone

A quick edit: Tip..if the OSD feature colors looks good?
then the Video amps are good..because the OSD signals go in and out the video
processor chip to the video amp then to tube.
Does the OSD colors look wrong??

well swapping q11 and q12 didn't change anything. I don't have this plugged into any game currently so when I plug it in, a floating box(somewhat of a screensaver) that says DISCONNECT pops around the screen.
The other question about OSD I really don't even know what that means.

 

[Ohmerone]

OSD On Screen Display!!

well swapping q11 and q12 didn't change anything. I don't have this plugged into any game currently so when I plug it in, a floating box(somewhat of a screensaver) that says DISCONNECT pops around the screen.
The other question about OSD I really don't even know what that means.

On Screen Display...Or customers Menu..

Anytime theres OSD on a monitor

you can count on finding other circuits like

extra chip on the neck board like the one you have..

You will find Micro,a Eprom a digital remote board using tact switches

for data lines.. to and from the mirco and data lines to each chip

used in any chassis with this feature..

Some chassis do have a internal display generated from

the solfware within the Mirco and will show like array or color patterns..

and not on all models or chassis..

But the OSD feature has a different signal path!

Knowing that the internal color patterns are good or bad

and the OSD is good can help and dividing the circuits used

in trouble shooting the issue..details matter!!

Of coarse you have green its to much green is the issue

not no green..so some comparison is needed between the features.





The data and clock talks to the OSD ic on the NB and its common

on crt base models to need a sync pulse to lock in the OSD

and it needs this to stay on the screen and use, as we know the

analog board used in the past standard and dual res monitors

they didnt have these parts or needed features.. and used a analog board

for adjustments..the digital boards via micro controls the deflection and more

to each chip in the monitor!!



Odds are with the signal cable hookup you will see a good customers

menu with the colors.. because the problem may not be in the signal path its using!!
Confirm that also..


Tip: The OSD can be found working on the LCD,LED,DLP,plasma

because its not looking for the vertical/horiztonal sync pulse to work!

when the signal cable ie NOT CONNECTED!!




Of coarse Im not surprised nothing changed when you swap those parts

because i dont see them as a problem to begin with..

what you need to do is troubleshoot and run some more

test to see where the problem could be..

Hook the monitor to another game,confirm its not a issue going to

the neck board. or Know good video source..

if still nothing has changed..do what i ask you

to measure the dc and comparing the dc with the red and blue

easy to follow thru the neck bd via the schematic..

you need a fixed pattern like a black and white raster or crosshatch

which delievers a B/W dont worry about the geometry were thinking

about a good black and white balance or gray scale..

I personally would be tracing the with a O-scope to see the waveforms

but i understand we are at all different skill set levels and we can

try to do it without the Oscilloscope,just takes alittle longer not

seeing the wavforms but the dc with help to have, so measure

these and compare...if you look at the video processor chip

you can see a in and out of the chip for RGB not the OSD pins

of the chip but the RGB part of the chip measure the dc at these test points

see if you can find them on your own or i will tell you which pins..

dont say to me... but i dont know what the voltage should be..because

if you mention the voltage found i or we can help you decide..

what seems to be right or wrong..using game play makes the wavforms

and dc change and harder to decide when TS the issue..



Swapping the board with another same NB with help to get the confidence

the problem is on the neck board if you like..

Im sure the problem is on the NB.. just guess..

Measure the pins on the video processor chip in and out of it..

You just need a fixed pattern mainly to test the over all voltages

it can have color in it,just not game play so the dc and waveforms are

steady,,Good Luck!

 

[tron guy]

ok I will do that and report back, thanks for taking the time.

 

[Ohmerone]

Your notes have helped immensely in getting one of these monitors sorted!

Many thanks, and a question...

These caps on the neckboard, what type are these? I can't find any suppliers that
have non-polarized electrolytics at that voltage. Mylar perhaps?

Regards;
-jim

UPDATE""

Happ Has the NP 1uf @350v's Electrolytic's Now.
Used in a few neckboard chassis versions.
along with the 1 uf polarized @250v's


Tip if your adjust the white balance setting before you replace the caps
or clean and balanced the tube
then you need to do it again and
good dc filtering from the 470uf in secondary is a big deal
with the neck board voltage, so need to replace the power supply
caps as well with theses chassis.
The symptoms vary with missing color's or bad color image.
No more just one or two parts with the chassis.
Good Luck!


More tips on this junk soon..LOL

Here's the latest findings with the tube

used on the C3125 CRT A59EEJ04X60

a crack in the crt for some reason

i assume just a new crt failure because i replace the

tube with another same tube # and chassis works good.

Also over heated R164 next to flyback.

And had blue heater voltage when running.

 

[arcadecup]

Talked with Ohmerone the other day.. Great guy, established, and knows the industry.
thanks for helping out the community. OSD controllers make me day dream about inserting in a scroller or something fun. wouldn't that be annoying to fire up your monitor and have it say arcadecup.com hahha?

 

[saskvidkid]

Makvision Monitor Problem

Here's what's happening with my monitor. Any suggestions?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YloZSbhTN_Q

 

[gamefixer]

Here's what's happening with my monitor. Any suggestions?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YloZSbhTN_Q

does it get worse if you tap on the chassis?

 

[saskvidkid]

No. Tapping the chasis doesn't do anything. I reflowed all the cold solder and made sure that there was no solder touching other solder points throughout the board as well. I think it might be in the power side of the board. I might just start changing the high voltage caps and see if that fixes it up. If anyone else has a suggestion though let me know. Thanks