Makvision Repair Logs & Tips

Ohmerone

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M2929D1 Symptom Dead:

Location D15, 31DF6 Shorted.



Vertical issue..Small thin lines at top of picture
with alittle bend on each sides.

C68 10uf 25v's

Also issues with C87 after warmup a Mylar cap .47uf 63's needs to have
a higher voltage atleast 100 or more.





M3129DB1

Symptom: Dead

Tip: if you got one that works, Go to it now and redress the Anode wire
or it will short out to the yoke and burnup so many parts.
The list is long!! Can use heat shrink tubing if needed.
Or coil it up to the crt away from yoke.
found small cuts in red wire
Most anode wires are laying aganist the yoke and HV gets to the yoke
and you can guess the rest.
Fly,Hot,Resistors,Vertical ic,yoke coil..
Just forget it,Buy another brand monitor!!



M3125

Symptom Dead:

Shorted HOT
Q36 Bad Flyback..Etc
Still waiting on fly!! Back order!!
Just forget it buy another monitor..



Yokes are different on all model's and version's chassis
when i get time i will measure the ohm's and post it.
And tubes #
 
More Updates

M2929d1
Symptom: Arcing from From Fly..
nice size hole top left side.
See Happ #49-5566-00 cost around $100.


M3129 tri mode to 31.5k, two trim pots on yoke. H .3 ohms,V 8.7 Ohms
M2929 Svga to 50.k, yoke,three trim pots on yoke H .4, V 6.0
Can use a either yoke for bench test only..yokes not bonded.
M68QDY259X02 for the M2929
A68QcU970X V4 for the M3129DB

M2929 Has OSD feature.
M3129 No OSD controls only..

M3129D neckboard
Symptom color tracking issues
Dryed up C21.C22,C23 NP, 1uf@ 350
Also check or change Vr4,5,6 cutoff controls.
Also maybe overheated.

M2929D1 symptom..
No image C39,C44,c22a,C22 maybe bulged
in power supply.
 
Makvision small lines at top of picture

Ohmerone put us on the right track. we also changed C88 problem solved
tommyshow
 
M2929d1
Symptom: Arcing from From Fly..
nice size hole top left side.
See Happ #49-5566-00 cost around $100.
I install new fly set complete.


M3129 tri mode to 31.5k, two trim pots on yoke. H .3 ohms,V 8.7 Ohms
M2929 Svga to 50.k, yoke,three trim pots on yoke H .4, V 6.0
Can use a either yoke for bench test only..yokes not bonded.
M68QDY259X02 for the M2929
A68QcU970X V4 for the M3129DB

M2929 Has OSD feature.
M3129 No OSD controls only..

M3129D neckboard
Symptom color tracking issues
Dryed up C21.C22,C23 NP, 1uf@ 350
can use 1uf 100vs NP in place of 1uf 350v
Also check or change Vr4,5,6 cutoff controls.
Also maybe overheated.

Also A68qcu970x will check bad can rej if you like
with universal adapter to restore guns

M2929D1 symptom..
No image C39,C44,c22a,C22 maybe bulged
in power supply.



C3129db1 symptom retrace lines half way down the screen
C67 mylar cap.

C3129db1
Unit only works in low and med res mode,
unit dead clicking in vga mode only.
may work at different times then next time you power up
it just clicking jump to med res,monitor working again..
replaced half of the HOT circuit nothing yet!!
Action taken was able to get to lockin after adjusting the B+
for that res mode.

M2929db1-6
retrace lines in top of image C88 47/35v
a few different version part location on board
may be different..
 
Last edited:
Some pictures

M2929D1 Symptom Dead:

Location D15, 31DF6 Shorted.



Vertical issue..Small thin lines at top of picture
with alittle bend on each sides.

C68 10uf 25v's

Also issues with C87 after warmup a Mylar cap .47uf 63's needs to have
a higher voltage atleast 100 or more.





M3129DB1

Symptom: Dead

Tip: if you got one that works, Go to it now and redress the Anode wire
or it will short out to the yoke and burnup so many parts.
The list is long!! Can use heat shrink tubing if needed.
Or coil it up to the crt away from yoke.
found small cuts in red wire
Most anode wires are laying aganist the yoke and HV gets to the yoke
and you can guess the rest.
Fly,Hot,Resistors,Vertical ic,yoke coil..
Just forget it,Buy another brand monitor!!



M3125

Symptom Dead:

Shorted HOT
Q36 Bad Flyback..Etc
Still waiting on fly!! Back order!!
Just forget it buy another monitor..



Yokes are different on all model's and version's chassis
when i get time i will measure the ohm's and post it.
And tubes #

Heres a picture of the anode wire that burns up and shorting
a few parts on chassis. And a anode wire redressed away from the yoke
in a working chassis that came in for another problem.

newer chassis has a big plastic ring keeping the wire away from yoke
its only on older version chassis,that was to close to yoke pins.

Also a picture of the image seen with a bad crt,tryed to rejuv a few times
plus replacing the bad caps on neck bd mention before. was able to get looking
good but gun tracking was weak.
 

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M3129D neckboard
Symptom color tracking issues
Dryed up C21.C22,C23 NP, 1uf@ 350
Also check or change Vr4,5,6 cutoff controls.
Also maybe overheated.

Your notes have helped immensely in getting one of these monitors sorted!

Many thanks, and a question...

These caps on the neckboard, what type are these? I can't find any suppliers that
have non-polarized electrolytics at that voltage. Mylar perhaps?

Regards;
-jim
 
Caps

I gave up, even Happ don't know and they fix the chassis's
just put 1 uf 100v NP. check/replace on the neck board for the 1uf 250v's polorized.
c25,c26,c27 i change those also and check the trim pots.
for the one with discrete components only the trimpots get overheat.

i have been using them for a few months,Mak is using different
generation neck boards, discrete video Transistors and the other is a IC
for D to A for RGB Drive. Seen the ic fail loosing a primary color.
You'll find the bad caps on all of the different neck boards.
The tube is and will be a problem already fighting to keep a few alive.
In most case's have to readjust the adjustment's for RGB and white balance.
Note:copy down the data values before adjust them.
Ive seen the tubes look good for days after clean balance rejuvenate
and still fail. Will cause issues when the guns get weak.
Good Luck!
 
Ive seen the tubes look good for days after clean balance rejuvenate and still fail. Will cause issues when the guns get weak. Good Luck!

The M2929D1G-62 is/was used in all the Big Buck Hunter Safari games I believe, at least any I have seen.

All of them now, the colors are fading fast, I am pretty certain it is weak guns on all of them. Have you found a source for just the tubes? Tube is LG Philips "M68QDY259X 02"
 
The M2929D1G-62 is/was used in all the Big Buck Hunter Safari games I believe, at least any I have seen.

All of them now, the colors are fading fast, I am pretty certain it is weak guns on all of them. Have you found a source for just the tubes? Tube is LG Philips "M68QDY259X 02"

Sure you can search the web and find a replacement.
add $100-150 for shipping plus the part $120-200
Poor Drive from the neck board can make the tube look bad
need to fix the neck board first and if still bad clean and balance the guns.

I like BBHS and Pro,open season most games are using makvision monitors really
thats the only whole monitor replacement there is so far that i know of
Check the tube people and see about other sub tubes that can be used.
Try Hawkeye picture tube manufacturing.
Good Luck!
 
Picture Tubes

Not sure about Hawkeye,there are other's that rebuild them
sence its not really a burn in issue yet..
May be hard to sub too,because LG have dual focus pins
on the tube except The Thomson tube using a single focus.
 
That 3rd picture of the Makvision that you said had a bad CRT, would that be the cause for an overall 'softness' in the picture? I've got one that I've been fighting with, and all of your observations so far have been bang on with regard to it's other ills, but I just can't get the picture on this one to be as sharp (contrast wise) as I would expect. It's almost as if there is a general 'haze' in the image.
 
That 3rd picture of the Makvision that you said had a bad CRT, would that be the cause for an overall 'softness' in the picture? I've got one that I've been fighting with, and all of your observations so far have been bang on with regard to it's other ills, but I just can't get the picture on this one to be as sharp (contrast wise) as I would expect. It's almost as if there is a general 'haze' in the image.

That was how it looked before i started.
Repaired the board it looked kinda good, then i lost the red
check with tester and red was missing,rejuv it and cleaned
a few time's it looked good for a few days then worse,a that point
wanted a new tube,..What i have found is
You can't judge the picture untill after you replace the parts and test the tube
then see how it turn's out,and the caps in powersupply if needed.
Because of the beam current,white balance in all changing because of weak tube
and the caps failing.it would effect the contrast.
 
If I may ask, what are you using for a CRT tester/restorer?

I've got a B&K 470, and have been trying to determine what the proper setup would be for
checking out the M68QDY259X in the Makvision I'm fighting with.

At this point have changed out all of the caps on the neckboard, save for one that I did not have on the shelf (yeah, just invite Murphy to the party) and there has been no appreciable change in the image.

This thing is really starting to bum me out!
 
If I may ask, what are you using for a CRT tester/restorer?

I've got a B&K 470, and have been trying to determine what the proper setup would be for
checking out the M68QDY259X in the Makvision I'm fighting with.

At this point have changed out all of the caps on the neckboard, save for one that I did not have on the shelf (yeah, just invite Murphy to the party) and there has been no appreciable change in the image.

This thing is really starting to bum me out!

ok..dunno if you seen this on the internet..if ya have then sorry for posting it ..maybe it MIGHT help or give ya an idea :D

read this..

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=112060.0



END OF LINE.


Daniel.
 
So... while I finally got the parts to assemble a 'universal' adapter for the '470,
the machine with the Makvision monitor ended up going back out on the route.

So until it has some other reason to come back in... On to other annoyances.

I've got a 'Concorde 2' bartop game with no picture. Tested out the logic so it
is definitely the monitor which so far is leading me a merry chase.

It appears to be a JVC monitor but I have been unable (so far) to find any information
on it. 1997 date stamp on the PC board.

It is wired with a VGA plug, but have not been able to find anything indicating a
specific model. The main PC board has the legend "11S31-039A Rev. C2" screened
on it, and a nondescript sticker reading "JK14004-0M1TN".

The CRT is a Toshba part M34KLP22XX, which has tested out fair on the '470...

At power on, I can hear the high voltage crackle but no raster, no image...

The thing has controls across the front more reminiscent of a TV than a monitor,
biggest problem for me at the moment is the total inability to find any documentation
(schematics, etc.) on the fool thing... And none of the pots on the boards have
any useful labeling on them... "VRnnn" markings, but nothing to indicate function...

Just beating my head against the wall at this point...

This ring any bells with you?

Cheers;
-jim
 
So... while I finally got the parts to assemble a 'universal' adapter for the '470,
the machine with the Makvision monitor ended up going back out on the route.

So until it has some other reason to come back in... On to other annoyances.

I've got a 'Concorde 2' bartop game with no picture. Tested out the logic so it
is definitely the monitor which so far is leading me a merry chase.

It appears to be a JVC monitor but I have been unable (so far) to find any information
on it. 1997 date stamp on the PC board.

It is wired with a VGA plug, but have not been able to find anything indicating a
specific model. The main PC board has the legend "11S31-039A Rev. C2" screened
on it, and a nondescript sticker reading "JK14004-0M1TN".

The CRT is a Toshba part M34KLP22XX, which has tested out fair on the '470...

At power on, I can hear the high voltage crackle but no raster, no image...

The thing has controls across the front more reminiscent of a TV than a monitor,
biggest problem for me at the moment is the total inability to find any documentation
(schematics, etc.) on the fool thing... And none of the pots on the boards have
any useful labeling on them... "VRnnn" markings, but nothing to indicate function...

Just beating my head against the wall at this point...

This ring any bells with you?

Cheers;
-jim

No, no bells!

Pull it out of case and take a picture of the top of chassis
after you
remove power discharge the tube,by grounding the anode cup
holding to ground for a complete discharge for 30 seconds atleast
now the tube would have no charge to it then power up again
did it charge up? any static charge.
check for heater glow.
Check for any voltages on the neck board

Turn up {clockwise}, the screen pot on fly.
check the parts being used in the chassis
like flyback # that will help to id the chassis
as well.
After you remove the chassis from the frame check
for bad connections.Let us know what you find

A makvision tube test.
Don't need a socket to fit the tube
just use the main ones like rgb and filament screen
with clip on each pin universal adaptor, no need to test focus pins.
When there is a heater to cathode short causing the issues.
 
Ok... things have gotten a bit frantic so have not been able to do any additional work/research on this critter, but did get some pictures to see if a visual jogs anyone's memory...

IMG_8228.JPG


IMG_8229.JPG


And, when they designed this thing apparently 'easy maintenance' was not in the design prerequisites. The monitor actually has no chassis of it's own. The CRT is hard mounted to the front of the case and the logic board slides into place below it on a pair of rails and is then secured by an attached back plate by three screws to the lower inner case plate.

When installed in the unit, none of the various pots on the boards are accessible aside from the front mounted controls which can be accessed after removing a maintenance panel on the lower front of the machine... Wow...

-jim
 
CTX model or A Sanyo from a 13"tv

10 "
Ok... things have gotten a bit frantic so have not been able to do any additional work/research on this critter, but did get some pictures to see if a visual jogs anyone's memory...

IMG_8228.JPG


IMG_8229.JPG


And, when they designed this thing apparently 'easy maintenance' was not in the design prerequisites. The monitor actually has no chassis of it's own. The CRT is hard mounted to the front of the case and the logic board slides into place below it on a pair of rails and is then secured by an attached back plate by three screws to the lower inner case plate.

When installed in the unit, none of the various pots on the boards are accessible aside from the front mounted controls which can be accessed after removing a maintenance panel on the lower front of the machine... Wow...

-jim




I know what you mean reminds me of TV/VCR/DVD Combo's
Just another set to fix in the shop, but are a real pain.
often have to make jigs just for that model, got to do something
because the way its put together.

I can tell each circuit location
from this view..Looks like a tv chassis from a 10"tv or 13"
should be able to pull the whole tube and cabinet as well.
may have to find the best service position tube may pull out
and point down so the chassis bottom is up..have to look at it


Need to do a inspection of the top and bottom of board
for bad connections.


if you can find a ctx schematic somewhere may help you..
need to read the numbers off the ic's this will help to match the schematic
for this model if your lucky. to have any schematics i had them on paper long ago.
the flyback # was from a CTX model.

I wouldnt replace the caps i personaly would test some voltages first..
and see whats missing..
Make sure the brightness control and contrast are clockwise incase they
were turned down.


Not sure where your at on this. maybe no place you can send it out for repair
so if you want try and fix as is let us know.

Since this is not a MAkvision maybe you could start another fresh thread..
and we can start a repair log for this model.
 
Return of the montor from heck!

So... about 6 months from our last go around, the critter is back (M2929D1-62), now with no picture at all...

At power on, the LED on the main board goes thru it's normal (?) cycle and you hear the high voltage kick on, but on the screen nada! Or so it would seem at first glance.

As the game initialized I thought I saw a brief flash at a mode shift, so turned off the room lights and saw a very dim green raster with dark horizontal lines running across it. And indeed, the raster would flicker briefly when the game shifted modes (resolutions) during start up...

Did the neck boards and power supply caps change out last time it was here, checked the diode from the one note for a 'dead' monitor, it's ok... Thots?

And another potential oddity... Put my B&K 470 on it to try to get a 'read' on the tube state. Parsed the connection info from a thread referenced earlier which I 'think' was correct... But got absolutely nothing on the tester! No response from the G1/G2 setup adjustments, or from the guns... So bad tube, or incorrect connections?

I'm already remembering why I did not like this thing...
 
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