Making a new Zoo Keeper

shirkle

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Today I started the making of a new cabinet for my Zoo Keeper.
This restoration/creation will take me a while and I'll try to keep the thread alive as I go. For now, I have all of the pieces of the cabinet cut, but there are still some little things to do to a few of them:
IMG_2646.jpg


Next on the list:
- cut the t-molding slot
- cut the angular cuts on the top panel, speaker panel, and top back piece. These pieces don't have 90 degree cuts like the rest, so I didn't get to them yet.
- cut a groove in the top panel for the marquee
- route groove in the back on the front panel where it meets to bottom of the cabinet.

I don't own a router, so some of those simple things will take me a while as I look for a friend who does have one and is willing to help. Someone (I won't say who or where he got the plans, sorry!)cut the cabinet for me, but he's almost 2 hours away, so I'm not going back there just to have a few grooves cut.

Like I said, I'll try to keep this thread alive as I go, but expect a few days here and there with no updates.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. I'm going to be doing the exact same thing myself soon. Lots of pic's please.

Good luck.


john

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Yea, there's a few parts and angles the machine cant get on Taito cab style parts. Great project, see who gets it done first, me or you :)
 
ProK- I just emailed you to make sure you saw this.

I'd put my money on you finishing first. I think you've got a bit more restoration skill than I do. Plus, at the rate I've worked on my ZK, I won't be done until about 2016 at best.
 
Joey- which one is the correct one to use(part numer)? I've read 1/16 and also 5/64. Those are so close, it seems like it wouldn't matter, but apparently it does. I'm not sure on depth or shank length either. I think I just fulfilled the requirements for being clueless.
 
Since t-molding.com sells 1/16" width cutter for much of the t-molding,
http://www.t-molding.com/store/home.php?cat=6

I bought
1/16" #301 #5341 #7641

..the 1/16" width cutter, with a 1/2" shaft.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

Some cheaper routers may only have a collet for a 1/4" shaft. Many routers will have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. If at all possible, you'd want to buy router bits in general with the larger 1/2" shaft, as they're beefier and less prone to vibration.

If you buy a router with only the 1/4" collet, the 1/4" shaft bits will work just fine. I've found that in stores like Lowes, the 1/2" shaft bits cost a premium, but if ordering from a woodworking supply place, the cost is often negligible.
 
Yes, 3/4" MDF. The original was the MDF also, except for the bottom panel (3/4" plywood).

I might use the original bottom because it was in good shape still and it's probably more durable than MDF. I'll just have to give it a good sanding first.
 
Not much new to post as far as pictures go, but wanted to give a couple updates. I have a router in my possession and I routed the groove for the marquee before running out of daylight (I'm not cutting the MDF inside).
I got the angles cut on a friend's table saw.

So, by the end of the week, I should have the cabinet complete and assembled.

The artwork showed up today (thanks ProK!!!!) and I can't wait to put it on.

I also have been filling a couple holes on the control panel. I have a repro CPO from when Arcade Renovations did them a bunch of years ago, so that will be going on in the next day or two. I just have to use a little more bondo on the holes, then primer and paint.

The boards are still out at a fellow klover's house (scaboo4u). Those will hopefully come back soon. I had 3 bad ROMs, and the new roms have come in from hobbyroms.com.

So, I'm thinking that in less than a week I could have a fully assembled and working Zoo Keeper. I do need a monitor still, but I think I can round one up from some other klovers.

So, that's a lot of updates. I'll post some pics later if I can.

Thanks to everyone for your help so far.
 
Finally had time to use the router today. I had never used one before, so I was a little intimidated. I just went right into though.
I got the t-molding slot cut today and I am starting to assemble it all.

I had a genius moment when figuring out how to set the depth of the router for t-molding slots....I peeled a little molding up from another cabinet and put the slot cutter into the groove, then adjusted the height of the router until it was flush with the cabinet, locked it, and slid it out. It worked 100% perfectly. I put a few little pieces of molding in already just to see for sure, it there is absolutely no overlap on either side. I thought it was a clever way to make sure I got it right.

I'll again attempt to post some pictures. I'm hoping to have the cabinet completed tomorrow or Monday.
 
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Good progress there.....are you going to use the old T molding or get some new stuff??

Don't forget that you have to router a slot in the piece at the bottom back(under the door) that the power box slots into.




john

.
 
I actually used the original piece that you're talking about.....not even the entire bottom back panel, just that little wooden piece that is glued/stapled to it.
I attached it before I got a router to cut the slots. I had no idea using a router was so simple.


Here are a couple pictures...
I started to assemble the cabinet without glue just to make sure it al fits. Ignore all the dust on the top piece:
DSCN8278.jpg


The tons of bolts in this game, all sanded and clearcoated:
DSCN8279.jpg


The control panel with one coat of paint on it. The filled holes are actually perfectly smooth, but you can still see them through the first coat with the flash of the camera. I'm going to sand it a little and then put one more coat before putting on the new overlay.
DSCN8286.jpg


And something original....I love the original coindoor. I might touch it up a little, but not a full repaint. I LOVE the Taito plate in the middle.
DSCN8285.jpg
 
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Finished the control panel tonight. Not much else to report.

Putting this cabinet together was very frustrating at first. My advice to anyone else attempting one: have a lot of clamps with you. I needed at least about 8 or so to clamp it all together as I built it. I'm hoping to have it completely constructed tomorrow.

That control panel....
CPOZooKeeper.jpg
 
Looking good so far. I'm glad you mentioned the clamps.


It will be interesting to see how the artwork matches the shape of the cab sides.


good luck.


john

.
 
Put the top and back pieces on today. The only piece not on yet is the back door, which I'll put on last, even after the side art. I still have to glue the bottom on too.

Today, I managed to screw in the small pieces of wood that hold the marquee light fixture, and the two pieces that go under the sides of the control panel.

I'm getting a little worried about my boards. I sent them to a member here to have them gone over, and he hasn't posted on here since around 1/6/11. I sent him a check for return shipping a few weeks ago, but haven't heard anything from him since 12/30/10. Seems like a good honest guy, so I'm hoping he's just sidetracked with work or something. If anyone knows "scaboo4u" personally, let him know I'd like my boards back eventually!
 
Put the bottom on yesterday. Primed today. I'm just rolling on the primer and orange. I'll sand it perfectly smooth and clean it before applying the art. I'm going to spray the black with just spraypaint. I've sprayed the monitor area of other games with spraypaint before it usually comes out flawless.

Picture of progress with the white primer still drying: (Ignore the mess of a gameroom)
DSCN8296.jpg
 
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