Make Trax

jacklick

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Donor 9 years: 2013, 2016-2021, 2023-2024
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Don't think this will be a full restore (not a highly desired title) but figured I would make it nice and document it anyway. I have started two others and haven't finished those but why not tear more stuff apart.

So far.
Stripped entire cabinet
all rusted screws, washers, latches, etc. soaked in evapo-rust and then tumbled. (got a darn hole in my tumbler).
took power supply, transformer, etc unit out and sanded and painted.
Washed monitor and all pcbs.


Questions/things I need to decide
what to do w/ the damaged laminate overlay at bottom. Was thinking of sanding an bondo but then paint wouldn't match so might paint bottom green or yellow or something?

Overlay is crap.

pics coming.
 
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Pics of before and after of power section.

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nice work so far! i want a make trax so keep it comin :)

Here are some more pics of stripped cab.

This shows the "laminate" ...not sure what to call it... overlay stripped at bottom. I don't think I should strip this off completely. Going to even out with bondo and paint. Other suggestions?

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Just some profile views. Looks halfway decent from this distance.
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.....This shows the "laminate" ...not sure what to call it... overlay stripped at bottom....

it is plywood, looks like one layer hasw come loose and broken off partly. you could fix that with some glue is you still have the piee that came off (PVA or whit ewood glue). or, if you have any plywood of similar type that's peeling as well, you could use a sharp knofe (box curret) to vut it to shape and glue that in then bondo any gaps!
 
it is plywood, looks like one layer hasw come loose and broken off partly. you could fix that with some glue is you still have the piee that came off (PVA or whit ewood glue). or, if you have any plywood of similar type that's peeling as well, you could use a sharp knofe (box curret) to vut it to shape and glue that in then bondo any gaps!

Hmm I thought that might be some type of laminate on top of the plywood. Will figure out something for the bottom and back but did some glueing and painting of metal parts today.

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Used Blkdog7 method for painting carriage bolts

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Not sure what I am going to do about the CPO. Don't think anyone had remade these and this one is messed up pretty bad.

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i found a make trax cpo on ebay a while ago; just a matter of keeping the eyes open and put the word out!

this whole panel looks in ~ok condition. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAKE-TRAX-C...604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b04e7cefc

and repros! http://www.arcadeoverlays.com/store...temdetail.aspx?sfid=17232&c=383928&i=11008373

Saw both of those but thanks. I just found arcadeoverlays.com the other day and quickly did some forum research on them. Believe it is inkjet printed but in this case it will be better than the one I have.
 
i also just noticed you have coach bolt holes through your cpo for the joystick - i dont recall mine havinig those - would be a good time to fit some T nuts before the new overlay goes on - i can take a photo of mine if you like as i have removed the cpo in readiness for fittign the new cpo (just havent done it yet)
 
i also just noticed you have coach bolt holes through your cpo for the joystick - i dont recall mine havinig those - would be a good time to fit some T nuts before the new overlay goes on - i can take a photo of mine if you like as i have removed the cpo in readiness for fittign the new cpo (just havent done it yet)

Yes please do take of a pic of yours and I will take a pic of mine. (sounds terrible)

anyway, Mine actually does have some "stud/screws" but looks like someone put bolts in as well.. Maybe I don't have an original joystick.....pics coming soon.
 
make trax stripped CP pics

Joystick - wico leaf red ball (two pics)

control panel (stripped) showing 75% of the panel to show t nut hole orientation
Cp - just the joystick area with tnuts (top)
Cp - just the joystick area (underneath) - note the wico impression on the CP

if the bolts in the tnuts for the js are snapped off, or jammed, remove the tnuts and put on new ones. i would also
- make surre the bolts you use are not too long (ie just shorter than the topside of the tnut, or use washers, to prevent the bolt pushing into the cpo counter sunk hole
- fit a flat disk on top of the tnut to fill the hole flush to cp top before applying the cpo to prevent a depression forming in the cpo over the tnut holes . mt cpo was badly cracked like yours on the rounded edge, but the depressions were also quite obvious!
 

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Joystick - wico leaf red ball (two pics)

control panel (stripped) showing 75% of the panel to show t nut hole orientation
Cp - just the joystick area with tnuts (top)
Cp - just the joystick area (underneath) - note the wico impression on the CP

if the bolts in the tnuts for the js are snapped off, or jammed, remove the tnuts and put on new ones. i would also
- make surre the bolts you use are not too long (ie just shorter than the topside of the tnut, or use washers, to prevent the bolt pushing into the cpo counter sunk hole
- fit a flat disk on top of the tnut to fill the hole flush to cp top before applying the cpo to prevent a depression forming in the cpo over the tnut holes . mt cpo was badly cracked like yours on the rounded edge, but the depressions were also quite obvious!

Thanks for the pics. Have been super busy this fall and since it is getting cold, moved this project indoors to complete what I can.

My wico is definitely different and likely replaced or they did a switch at factory. looks like nail/screw was inserted in the close pattern like yours and head is under the overlay. however, my wico has wider bolt pattern and so they used bolts through the CP and overlay.
I could likely insert t-nut in these open holes, remove screws, and fill from topside before applying the overlay to get cleaner look.

Also, only have two button holes.

IMG_20141125_191906.jpg

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removed old ripped cpo, replaced all headers and connectors for wms ps, put joystick back together to play a few games. Game is pretty hard.

Realize that I have an 8-way wico (black base with round restricter) which likely was not original for this game.

Recapped pcb (had 10uf50v (16v original) and 470uf16v caps available) hoping it would clear some of the buzz in the speaker. Might have made a little difference but not much.

Need instruction card for bezel.
 
power supply pic installed with new connectors and header pins.
IMG_20141127_095749.jpg



Control Panel w/o cpo. still need to clean up some. Notice the nail/screw heads on front and top. Not sure what they were there for.

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Control Panel w/o cpo. still need to clean up some. Notice the nail/screw heads on front and top. Not sure what they were there for.

IMG_20141127_122528.jpg

Well the nail/screws on front side are for cpo latch....and ones on top are obviously for the original joy stick that had different bolt pattern.
 
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